Bike running fast revs
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@calum lol got it in pretty easy but it’s still revving to the moon no air leaks cable is 100% free safe to say I’m pretty clue less and pissed off
@declan If it was working fine before hand, then it's going to be something properly simple. Rushing isn't going to fix the problem.
My guess is that it's an air leak, because this is the most common type of problem.
The inlet manifold gasket should be renewed. As said previously, these are prone to failure upon renewal.
You said your inlet had a split in it, have you replaced the inlet? Sounds like it's past its best and I would renew it with a new one whilsy Yamaha still make them...
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@declan If it was working fine before hand, then it's going to be something properly simple. Rushing isn't going to fix the problem.
My guess is that it's an air leak, because this is the most common type of problem.
The inlet manifold gasket should be renewed. As said previously, these are prone to failure upon renewal.
You said your inlet had a split in it, have you replaced the inlet? Sounds like it's past its best and I would renew it with a new one whilsy Yamaha still make them...
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@calum your right it just has to be an air leak there’s no other explanation so if I use wd40 should I be looking for bubbles as rpm change will not be reliable
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@declan The added WD-40 should be combustable, bringing the mixture down so the idle should drop.
It'll be something simple. It might be that the reeds are installed incorrectly. Too Much overlap at the end etc...
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@calum checked before install they were a perfect fit and actuall were the same ones that were already in there
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@declan No
Item 8 and be sure to buy either genuine or Athena.
As said, it's common for them to go there on these bikes because people either do naff copies, use inferior parts or reuse gaskets.
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@calum see I have a gasket underneath the inlet manifold is this in the wrong place then Bud?
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@declan The inlet is "Rubber" therefore doesn't need a gasket.
The Engine is metal and therefore needs a gasket.
So yes. As I said at the start, it's an airleak. It's where I suspected it to be.
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@calum I’ll get the gasket switched round tomorrow and we will see how it goes thanks for you time mate
@declan As said, really that gasket should be renewed!
It's your bike do as you please, If you were a more experienced engine builder, I would defer to your judgement on whether or not that gasket could be reused.
But as you got it the wrong way around, I would say you're not too experienced.
It may work and cause no problems, it may fail on you when you're out and miles from home.
I would renew the gasket personally, saves yourself from headache down the line.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@declan As said, really that gasket should be renewed!
It's your bike do as you please, If you were a more experienced engine builder, I would defer to your judgement on whether or not that gasket could be reused.
But as you got it the wrong way around, I would say you're not too experienced.
It may work and cause no problems, it may fail on you when you're out and miles from home.
I would renew the gasket personally, saves yourself from headache down the line.
@calum I didn’t put it on the wrong way it was already like that and I’ve worked on bikes all my life and did 2 years mechanics course at college but no I couldn’t say I’m an experienced engine builder but I wouldn’t re use a gasket if I thought it was bad
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@calum I didn’t put it on the wrong way it was already like that and I’ve worked on bikes all my life and did 2 years mechanics course at college but no I couldn’t say I’m an experienced engine builder but I wouldn’t re use a gasket if I thought it was bad
@declan Okay sorry bud. Was jut the vibe I was getting.
Put it this way, on engines, if you have two meeting surfaces, they should be surpressed with a gasket.
The reason why the inlet manifold doesn't need a gasket between the reed cage is because the inlet manifold is rubber,
But metal on metal definitely needs a gasket.
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Experience has kicked me up the butt more than once (I am, after all, an old man!) and personally always use new seals,gaskets etc when refitting something, mainly because when problems arise like you are experiencing I know I can rule out a duff seal (you do get duff new ones occasionally, quality counts) and have been using Athena kits that have proved to be reliable.There is nothing worse than stripping something down you have just meticulously rebuilt because of a "minor" hiccup. By the way, I hate fitting that rubber boot as well, my fingers are a bit to pudgy to fit comfortably in the airbox
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Experience has kicked me up the butt more than once (I am, after all, an old man!) and personally always use new seals,gaskets etc when refitting something, mainly because when problems arise like you are experiencing I know I can rule out a duff seal (you do get duff new ones occasionally, quality counts) and have been using Athena kits that have proved to be reliable.There is nothing worse than stripping something down you have just meticulously rebuilt because of a "minor" hiccup. By the way, I hate fitting that rubber boot as well, my fingers are a bit to pudgy to fit comfortably in the airbox
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Know how you feel, felt the same when my inlet rubber split, take a break and get back to it with a clear head.
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Is this reving high as soon as you start it ? Common things that will cause it also are a blown or incorrectly sealed cylinder base gasket or a leaking left crank seal, its usually the left side that goes they dry out and perish over time. Only a couple of quid and easy to fit, same with the base gasket.
