What would you do in my situation?
-
I have 98 dtr, the top end went and at that time I had no idea how simple it would be just to rebuild the top end. I went and bought a complete running engine, it was running nice when I went to pick it up, so I completely stripped my bike and gave it a respray etc... built it back up and I just can’t get it to run without the choke on. I’m either looking to take it to a garage and get a pro to fix it or sell it, but as it’s not running properly what sort of money would it fetch with the old engine aswell? If I took it to a garage how much would it cost me? I’m not in a great financial position right now so I’m probs looking at selling it rather than fixing it, the engine alone was £400 I also added fat bars, folding levers & HEL brake lines. I love the bike but I don’t need the stress it’s causing me please help
-
@ricky0115 and if it was running nice then it’s something immensely simple it’s just finding it for example my bike was running I brought new reeds put it together and it just revved on its own up to 6k blew the fuel valve out and I could ride it but now it’s starving for fuel at red line so I’m buying a new one just try every simple thing
-
@declan *bought It's
bought
not brought. He didn't brought the engine. He bought the engine.@ricky0115 You're not mechanically minded? Tell me, how does one become mechanically minded. We aren't born that way.
You learn by immersing yourself in the problem.
The fact it only idles with the choke on doesn't warrant a full rebuild unless its the crank seals that have gone.
Either way it's a 2 hour job to split the engine and replace all the bearings and seals at a cost of £200 tops for high quality parts.
I would never buy a "running" DT engine and not rebuild it. So I wish you would have asked for our advice before buying a used engine.
These engines are so incredibly simple, once you've done it one, you will be full of confidence to tackle any problem that arises.
In My Opinion, I would buy a Haynes manual, and split the engine you have lying on the side.
Take your time, rebuild that on a bench and use that in your DTR rather than this one you've got. As Declan said, you could sell the engine you got to fund this project, you need £200 to do the rebuild, including connecting rod.
We're all here to help, but ultimately once the engine is in the frame it'll be down to you to get it started.
It is probably likely that you're looking in the wrong place, assuming the engine is faulty when actually you've split the inlet manifold or carb boot causing an air leak.
You just have to keep persevering.
If you give up on this, then you will forever be giving up on vehicles.
That's fine, that's what garages are there for after all, but you have to accept that taking it to a garage is going to cost you in the long run.
If you nail it now, you will save thousands of pounds in your lifetime where you won't need a garage.
That's my 2 cents on the matter, I came from knowing nothing about anything.
-
Have to say Calum is right, be positive and arm yourself with a Haynes manual then take your time and get stuck in. It is straightforward and nothing to fear, also, for me,, enjoyable pastime. If you have done the frame and refitted the purchased engine you can certainly do the rest..probably a very straight forward problem, don't throw your money away by giving up.
-
@calum Thanks man, I appreciate your advice. The problem is that exactly, i spend £200 rebuilding the engine then it still not running and i'm stuck again. Then i replace the air boot and inlet, and it still doesn't run. It's easy to put a few nuts n bolts in but it's the diagnostics where I struggle, I've tried a new inlet so my problem must be on the air boot? I'm going to buy a haynes manual and see how it looks then I think i'll go from there. Thanks again.
-
-
@ricky0115 and yes that’s what the forum is for we all need help once in a while so it’s no issue if you give up now then essentially that’s all your gonna do every time a problem presents it’s self you will be more inclined to just fob it off on a garage that really should be last resort please if you are gonna buy something make a post so we can determine whether the part is actually broke or done for my dt is my first 2 stroke and I’m quickly learning how perfect everything has to be for it to run right were here to help so use us.
-
@calum grammar Nazi alert
I get you though mate, my pet hates are "defiantly" instead of definitely and the usual their, there, they're all mixed up!@ricky0115 As for the only running on choke issue, maybe get the carb stripped and ultrasonically cleaned at a shop? Cost me £30 when I rebuilt my bike
-
@finnerz89 I think Britain has slipped down the food chain enough, we need to redeem ourselves by enforcing correct grammar, or at least as good as can be. I mean jeez, there are people in China that speak/write better English than people I know, it's just embarrassing ha.
From the vague description @ricky0115 has provided, it sounds more to me like the carb just needs setting up.
-
@calum true, I spell check our breakdown log at work on a daily basis as it does my nut in!
I thought his bike was running previously so assumed the carb had gummed up between his top end going and him fitting the new engine.
Definitely something simple I think. -
Haynes manual on order, engine out. Start again, right from the start. Carb getting an ultrasonic clean Friday £35. Engine in for vapour blasting Friday aswell. Payday I will order new conrod kit & full Athena gasket kit and possibly the oil seal kit if it’s in stock!