TDR starting problem
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Been out again can't for the life of me get the temp gauge into the red now ? So tomorrow I'm gunna take the rad off and flush it top up with new coolant, as for the starting problem, it starts now every time with a bit of choke, still not satisfied so will be stripping it down to investigate further
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I struggle to get my Dt up to temp right now, let alone overheat haha
They cool extremely well for a single rad two stroke, should never get hot really, but I have heard the standard exhausts make them run hotter.
I've got a temp gauge radiator cap and today in 11 degrees sunshine I never got it over 60 degrees riding at 60-70mph constantly. Ragging it none stop accelerating and slowing on a backroad I got it up to 80 degrees. -
Personally my DT ran at a steady 57° C in 20+°.
Don't believe it will run that much hotter with the Athena. Cooler if any since it's plated. -
@irongamer727 you want it hotter than that, do you have the rad scoops?
Closer to boiling point the better an engine will run, my Dt runs like shit until 60 odd, feels absolutely brilliant up at 80 odd though. -
Rad scoops?
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It's not like the engine is 57°. The coolant is.
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@irongamer727 yes, the coolant should run around 80-100 degrees optimal. Also rad scoops as in the plastic sheild infront of the radiator. My Dt wouldn't go over 40 degrees without it.
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@irongamer727 no, it won't boil until well past 120 degrees with proper coolant, especially not in a pressurised system.
For the engine to be running optimal it needs to be close to boiling point, under 70 degrees is low, cars sit at 90-100 degrees all day, so why shouldn't a bike?
As for my jetting it's been plug chopped and is on the slight rich side, but not by much. -
@glynn123 90% of cars are not performance tuned, not sure where you got that information but pretty sure that's incorrect. You don't want your engine to run that hot, or rather the coolant. And you don't want an engine to run at sub 50 degrees. But 100 sounds too high, and 50 too low. The hotter an engine, the greater the risk of detonation.
As for performance, the hotter the engine, the more heat you'll add to the combustable mix. Vaporising fuel before it has a chance to ignite and increasing the pressure of air in the inlet tract (reducing the amount of available oxygen molecules).
Therefore, the hotter an engine, the worse it'll perform.
The only reason you don't want to run an engine at low temperatures is due to the fact of thermal coexpansions of differing materials.
The opposite is infact true. Provided you can ignite the mixture (I.E. there is enough heat), the cooler an engine can run, the more performant it'll be.
Why? Facts.
The cooler the operating temperature of an engine, the tighter the tolerances can be. If that's true, then you can run the piston closer to the deck, and raise the compression without the risk of preignition.
If that's true, you can obtain a better burn of the combustible mix, ensuring increased power.
However, to add to the point that if the engine is really good at cooling, then the "Energy" of the system, heat produced by igniting the mixture, will be absorbed through the cooling system rather than being used to drive the piston.
With that said, I guess there is logic to what you said.
I think there is a middle ground, I don't think the hotter the engine the more performant, hence why we don't see a lot of high performance air cooled engines. But similarly, cooling the engine can have adverse effects.
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So same again today, was hard to start, once started it would idle fine then the idling would get faster on it's own? The gradually go back down, then it would do the same again, had it idling on the stand for 15 mins and temp was way over half way
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@rolz82 does it have the expansion bottle in the rubber manifold between carb and reeds? Mine raises and lowers its idle on its own with that bottle, originally I thought it was an air leak and tried all sorts, once I plugged the axpansion bottle off it would idle perfect, but did lose abit of power so put it back on.
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@irongamer727 don't know what you're getting at, I'm referring to the boost bottle, think they called it the YIPS system. Stores fuel and air mix for throttle blips and high loads, hence why it raises and lowers idle itself as the pressure settles in the boost bottle. Also helps with stalling etc.
