Husky cr 250
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@declan 2000s CR250s are solid bikes, you should find a relatively smooth and non-aggressive powerband and some decent bottom-end torque. Nimble little bikes that actually handle their excessive weight pretty well. Only real downside I can think of would be short gear ratios and the suspension could be a bit harder than needs to be considering its a motocross bike.
Yamaha DT125R Blue 2002, XT 125 1982, Yamaha WR250Z 1992, BMW GS650F 1994, Benelli BN302 2015
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@declan 2000s CR250s are solid bikes, you should find a relatively smooth and non-aggressive powerband and some decent bottom-end torque. Nimble little bikes that actually handle their excessive weight pretty well. Only real downside I can think of would be short gear ratios and the suspension could be a bit harder than needs to be considering its a motocross bike.
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@declan 2000s CR250s are solid bikes, you should find a relatively smooth and non-aggressive powerband and some decent bottom-end torque. Nimble little bikes that actually handle their excessive weight pretty well. Only real downside I can think of would be short gear ratios and the suspension could be a bit harder than needs to be considering its a motocross bike.
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@minia hi did you own one of these bike I tried taking the seat off but the pin that holds it just turns and doesn’t pop off
@declan Hey. No I did not own any of these, only know about them from friends who bought some. But pretty much all cross/enduro bike seats are fitted the same way. You should just have 2 screws either side at the rear of the seat that screw directly into the subframe or 1 center screw that goes directly through the seat at the back. I know with vibrations and shocks sometimes the threads are ripped out.
Am I right in saying this is what you are talking about? If it's just going around in circles then you might have to just find a way to successfully force it out.
Yamaha DT125R Blue 2002, XT 125 1982, Yamaha WR250Z 1992, BMW GS650F 1994, Benelli BN302 2015
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@declan Hey. No I did not own any of these, only know about them from friends who bought some. But pretty much all cross/enduro bike seats are fitted the same way. You should just have 2 screws either side at the rear of the seat that screw directly into the subframe or 1 center screw that goes directly through the seat at the back. I know with vibrations and shocks sometimes the threads are ripped out.
Am I right in saying this is what you are talking about? If it's just going around in circles then you might have to just find a way to successfully force it out.
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@minia that’s the one but I found out it’s been replaced with something identical recently only it’s a bold with an nut on a flat head bolt so I was turning the bolt it’s all sorted now rode it today and it is crazy so much power
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@declan Clutch should be an easy fit. I burnt the clutch on my GasGas, hardest bit was to find the actually parts I needed. Was a pain.
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@minia mine stalls if you don’t rev it in gear and bites soon as you loose the lever never done one before did you use a torque wrench? I don’t think I will
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@minia mine stalls if you don’t rev it in gear and bites soon as you loose the lever never done one before did you use a torque wrench? I don’t think I will
@declan If playing with the lever doesn't do it and the bike doesn't stall in neutral then you have clutch issues.
I would personally drain the oil and take off your clutch cover and check to make sure your clutch springs are correctly torqued. You will need a torque wrench and a manual to find the parts and specifications, you can probably find one online. If your clutch springs are correct, then some new parts are in order. If they aren't, you can have a go at torqueing them up to the correct specification, putting oil in and seeing how it performs. Again, personally, I would take it all apart and make sure your plates are within good limitations. It is a very simple job to do as long as you're confident, it will also allow you to see how the bike has been maintained.
Yamaha DT125R Blue 2002, XT 125 1982, Yamaha WR250Z 1992, BMW GS650F 1994, Benelli BN302 2015
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@declan If playing with the lever doesn't do it and the bike doesn't stall in neutral then you have clutch issues.
I would personally drain the oil and take off your clutch cover and check to make sure your clutch springs are correctly torqued. You will need a torque wrench and a manual to find the parts and specifications, you can probably find one online. If your clutch springs are correct, then some new parts are in order. If they aren't, you can have a go at torqueing them up to the correct specification, putting oil in and seeing how it performs. Again, personally, I would take it all apart and make sure your plates are within good limitations. It is a very simple job to do as long as you're confident, it will also allow you to see how the bike has been maintained.
@minia the bike stalls in gear after like 5 seconds unless I blip it it’s a shame really clutch will cost 60 and then the wrench it’s money I don’t have but that’s life from what I’ve read no manual was made for these bikes it don’t die in gear if it’s say on the garden and not properly warmed up
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@minia the bike stalls in gear after like 5 seconds unless I blip it it’s a shame really clutch will cost 60 and then the wrench it’s money I don’t have but that’s life from what I’ve read no manual was made for these bikes it don’t die in gear if it’s say on the garden and not properly warmed up
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@declan I think I’ll get the cover off soon lads the shop didn’t even put the plug in it wasn’t even tight so maybe there’s a chance it’s on low oil or wrong oil?
@declan Of course there is a manual mate. Give it an oil change if you think it is required. Can't go wrong with that.
http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2004/2004_WSM_WR-CR_250.pdf
Yamaha DT125R Blue 2002, XT 125 1982, Yamaha WR250Z 1992, BMW GS650F 1994, Benelli BN302 2015
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@declan Of course there is a manual mate. Give it an oil change if you think it is required. Can't go wrong with that.
http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2004/2004_WSM_WR-CR_250.pdf
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@declan Of course there is a manual mate. Give it an oil change if you think it is required. Can't go wrong with that.
http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2004/2004_WSM_WR-CR_250.pdf
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I did that on my DT. I managed to unscrew it somehow anyway. Luckily I have a spare engine so I could fix it right away.
