Project DTZr.....a DT125R love story
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The custom head gasket I'm using,made by hand and a lot of dremel,it's a mix of the tzr 2RH and the DT's.
I didn't test it with one rad but with two works like a charm.
Do you know which stator you have fitted? There were 3 different types. The first type has 3 separate windings bolted to the backplate, 1 for lights, 1 for ignition and 1 for charging the battery. As far as I know this is the only type that is repairable…
Don’t neglect checking the magnetic pick up and it’s wiring, especially where it exits the casing near the sprocket…
Though from your findings it sounds like the ignition part of the stator is off…
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Do you know which stator you have fitted? There were 3 different types. The first type has 3 separate windings bolted to the backplate, 1 for lights, 1 for ignition and 1 for charging the battery. As far as I know this is the only type that is repairable…
Don’t neglect checking the magnetic pick up and it’s wiring, especially where it exits the casing near the sprocket…
Though from your findings it sounds like the ignition part of the stator is off…
@SpookDog
Yes I know,it's the repairable one,3NC stamp.I order a used in excellent condition from a trading site for vehicles and parts.I spoke with the guy that sells,it had 3,I choose from a photo the one that looked almost new,he told me that is from a low km's DT,it has the 3MB stamp but they are identical.
I checked the parts catalog from various models,the years I want have same codes. -
@SpookDog
Yes I know,it's the repairable one,3NC stamp.I order a used in excellent condition from a trading site for vehicles and parts.I spoke with the guy that sells,it had 3,I choose from a photo the one that looked almost new,he told me that is from a low km's DT,it has the 3MB stamp but they are identical.
I checked the parts catalog from various models,the years I want have same codes.@MadGyver
You got the whole stator coming to you? It’s a lot easier than soldering in a new winding/coil I imagine!
I’m guessing yours is putting out erratic voltage/ampage. Have you looked for dry solder on the ignition winding?…Could you see anything hinky with the one fitted? I had a dud lighting coil that only had slight black discolouration to the varnish, but was totally fubar…
PS how did you check the CDI?
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@MadGyver
You got the whole stator coming to you? It’s a lot easier than soldering in a new winding/coil I imagine!
I’m guessing yours is putting out erratic voltage/ampage. Have you looked for dry solder on the ignition winding?…Could you see anything hinky with the one fitted? I had a dud lighting coil that only had slight black discolouration to the varnish, but was totally fubar…
PS how did you check the CDI?
@SpookDog
It's the same difficulty for me,replace coil or the whole stator,it needs to come off in both situations.
When restomod the bike I had repaired and checked everything electrical and was in specs by the manual.
Every connection was cleaned or re-soldered.
There is a possibility that source coil/pulser on stator didn't handle the 13000 rpm
some times after the run in first 1000km i did.
CDI checked for short circuit or infinite resistance only.
I am searching for the ohm specs that should have compared with the readings taken,if found will be posted here. -
@SpookDog
It's the same difficulty for me,replace coil or the whole stator,it needs to come off in both situations.
When restomod the bike I had repaired and checked everything electrical and was in specs by the manual.
Every connection was cleaned or re-soldered.
There is a possibility that source coil/pulser on stator didn't handle the 13000 rpm some times after the run in first 1000km i did.
CDI checked for short circuit or infinite resistance only.
I am searching for the ohm specs that should have compared with the readings taken,if found will be posted here. -
Problem update
I've checked everything twice the last days,fixed a damaged connector from corrosion that seemed ok,cleaned every connector and earth point,resolder a cable that was holding by a hair of copper,all stator coil's is in specs and tested,the used stator I purchased is ok also but no change when used it.
Rectifier regulator checked and outputs the volts as it should (managed to start the bike for 10 mins run at idle,when gave some gas and reached 5000rpm engine shut off and did't run again,2 days have passed with trying).
So the only thing that cannot be fully tested is the CDI.and a Project update
I''ve managed to find a back wheel (17inch) from a TZR125 4FL that is exactly the same even in the lettering with the current 18inch from a TZR250 3MA.It's a little hard to find tires at good price for 18inches where I live.
Will post pics when ready.Now the bike will be 3.00x17 front and 3.50x17 back and not the 4.00x18 back wheel that has now. -
Are you using a genuine Yamaha ignition coil?
I've had this when I mistakenly bought a "Racing" coil off of eBay. Bike would initially run fine, then the coil would be saturated and the bike would barely idle let alone rev off! I had to ride back from Wales like this and it would struggle to do 50mph.
Bought a brand new genuine coil and the problem went away.
My brother had the exact same problem on his RD350, crappy Chinese coils...
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Bought a genuine ignition coil from yamaha 3 months ago,it worthed the price of 65 euro's,an aftermarket was at 40. I am using Yamaha part's only except the 170 kit.
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Are you using a genuine Yamaha ignition coil?
I've had this when I mistakenly bought a "Racing" coil off of eBay. Bike would initially run fine, then the coil would be saturated and the bike would barely idle let alone rev off! I had to ride back from Wales like this and it would struggle to do 50mph.
Bought a brand new genuine coil and the problem went away.
My brother had the exact same problem on his RD350, crappy Chinese coils...
@Calum Yep, happened to me as well!
The actual coil on DTRs is very good quality so it's well worth fitting a new lead even to an older one; you can cut off the very top of the coil's outer case where the lead pushes in with a junior hacksaw, pull out the old lead and solder the new one to the coil output for a really good connection. Then re-waterproof using Shoe Goo and electrical tape. Looks messy but no-one can see it under the tank.
I had a high-rpm misfire once, after trying everything else we replaced the HT lead in the manner described above which took around 1 hour on a summer's day so the engine was neither stone cold or up to temperature when I took it for a test ride. It wheelied out of the driveway without me even trying, and I couldn't believe how much better the performance was at all engine speeds. Made a big impression on me as I was 17 at the time and I'd spent practically a weekend trying to fix the bike and getting nowhere.
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Do you know the ID number of your CDI bud? I’m guessing that you can use any early one if you have a 3 coil stator? I don’t know what the postage is to Greece but I’ve got one you could use to swap out and check if it is the CDI…
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I don’t know off the top of my head. It’s the postage that’s a potential issue…
OKay, it’s:
3NC -00
93NBelieve it, or not!
…But I’m in the UK & have no monies till a week Wednesday (8 days)
If postage can be sorted out I’ve no problems lending it to you for testing, or selling it if it cures your problems…Have you swapped out the magnetic pickup? The wire can break inside the insulation where it exits the crank case…
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@SpookDog Is it working ok?How much you will sell it (pm the price)?
No I did not,used the whole stator that came (a 3MB-00) but bike does the same like mine the 3NC-00.Both stators are with in specs,checked with a multimeter according the service manual. -
@SpookDog Is it working ok?How much you will sell it (pm the price)?
No I did not,used the whole stator that came (a 3MB-00) but bike does the same like mine the 3NC-00.Both stators are with in specs,checked with a multimeter according the service manual. -
While measuring by curiosity,I noticed something not right.
Measuring point is battery connectors with a multi-meter.
Charging voltage with battery is 14.8v at 3000rpm,voltage without battery attached is 6.5v at 3000rpm.
I've managed to run it 2 time 2-3 mins each,the second time a dared to throttle it above 5000rpm it died no matter the kick start times no run.
Malfunctioning rectifier/regulator? -
Some regulators will not work without a healthy battery
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M MadGyver referenced this topic on
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And it does EXACTLY the same,by hitting 5000rpm engine dies....wtf????
I have checked everything 4 times,everything is in specs.
I feel I am going down the @SpookDog road.......
