Yamaha dtre 125cc 2006 help
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Brought a Yamaha dtre 125cc 2006 about a month ago only just got it Mot'd and back on-road. I have been warming it up every other day since I got it till now and it idles fine. Now being able to take it out properly It felt like it had no powerband at all. the DT would only get to 50mph in 5th gear sounding like it wanted to go more but wouldn't, it was screaming louder while giving no more power.
The cables were connected to the servo plus it was lined up with the whole and the servo was definitely going back and forth when switching the ignition on/off so I'm confused what's wrong with it. I unplugged the servo and disconnected the cables so I didn't damage the servo while I pinned open the powervalve to see what my result was. Now the bikes goes a lot better, obviously barley bottom end power but starts to kick in at high rpm and happily goes to 50mph in 4th! but when half way through the powerband and it goes to high rpm into any gear it seems to kinda miss fire like something is restricting to go faster, I change gear then pick up more speed about to hit the band once getting into it starts cutting again, doesn't bog out or completely die just doesn't seem to want me to go faster? Cleaned the carb and changed the plug but no difference
Any help would be much appreciated.bolded text
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Should be farely obvious. There is a green and black wire that goes into the back of the clock area. Four wires go in, but only three go out. Chopping the green/black wire and connecting it to the negative terminal of the battery sorts it out. The difference is night and day.
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There is only one wire.
I'm not responding to private messages because if I respond to you in a private message it's not visible for others to see. And then I'm left answer the same old question time and time again.
The information exists on this forum here, just need to search for it.
It's one wire. It goes into a four block connector. It can be identified ans a black wire with green strips.
Four wires go into the block, only three come out. Indicating that the green and black wire is terminated in that block.
If you cut the wire short of the block, and earth it to the battery. It will derestrict the CDI giving you full power.
Still, an aftermarket CDI is far superior.
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@Calum Sorry I didn't realize! Thank you for the help seems like you have solved my problem, will do exactly what you have said tomorrow, will keep posted on this forum on how it goes and if the issue has been solved or still continues! Many thanks!!
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@Sergioo Before cutting the loom, double check. Throw a photo up on here of the connector block. I'll know if it's the right one. Can't remember exactly how many wires went into it. But it will be really obvious.
Take the headlight cowl and headlight out. There are a bunch of connector blocks, it's one of those. If in doubt, leave enough room to resolder the wires back together.
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@finnerz89 I remember doing this day one when I got the bike and I literally didn't feel a difference. Earthed to the frame.
Years later when I got the Zeel, I rode that for a few months, then it went faulty. So I reverted back to the stock CDI and I was gobsmacked how bad the stock CDI was, no wire earthed since this isn't required for the Zeel.
Earthed that wire and it made such a difference. Got the Zeel back and again instantly noticed the difference.
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@finnerz89 You'd probably be able to go up a tooth with the zeel and it still be quicker. As I always say, it's more the mid range that I noticed.
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@Sergioo I still have this problem.. the restriction wire has already been earthed so it can't be that. The bikes runs fine till 2nd gear about to hit the powerband half way through then sounds like it's choking. I have checked for air leaks and don't have any. changed carb plus reeds so can't be that either! Please help I'm running out of ideas and it's bugging me
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The fact you said you pinned the valve and it was all perfect, tells me it's the valve.
Don't line the valve up with the hole. Line the valve up so it's flush with the exhaust port.
Make sure that the YPVS motor is in the open position before aligning it. If it's not, then it will merely close when it wants to open.
Sort the valve out. The green black wire, returned to the negative terminal of the battery is all you'll need for it to be full power. Simple job.
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hi guys, i'm from italy, sorry for my bad english. i also have a 125 dt re 2006. i think something similar happened to me about 2 months ago, it was sounding and running like as the "magic wire" wasn't connected, i tried to disconnect and reconnect it but nothing changed. in the following weeks i canged the piston rings and now is as fast as before! i didn't changed also the piston because it was in really good conditions. i hope to help
