Another New Guy
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Yes it's my dt200wr and dt125r/wr200 hybrid on Instagram.
I believe the reed switch worked from limiti the speed as it fits inside the speedometer
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So i've checked and think I have the 'good' CDI according to this site. I've checked and I've got a 3RM-30. (Clicky - It needs a good clean back there
http://dtpedia.de/mediawiki/index.php/CDI_Steuerteile
"The 3RM-30 is a very special, and in Germany very rare model. According to my research, it was used in the model years 1999-2002 in the French national version. It is almost identical to the 3RM-20, but has a slightly modified YPVS control."
I'm yet to go out since moving the reed switch, but if that hasn't helped I'll see if theres anything I can do to test the CDI.
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@NINJA no still just the same, feels like it hits the redline at 7500-8k rpm, really odd.
Do you know if the CDI is smart enough to limit revs when the engine is ‘cold’? Only thing I can see that might be wrong as such is the temp sensor didn’t move much beyond cold. I tested the gauge by earthing the connector last week but haven’t had the sender out the head yet. Engine was up to temp.
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@d3cme Your water temp sensor may be knackered? Which is a possible cause to your problems, but it sounds like you have another problem causing the restriction. Is the power valve set up correctly? Has the YPVS (?) air bottle been removed? It's number 35 in this pic, it comes off the intake between the carb and air filter box;
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4171936/dt125r-3rmm-2002-050-b/intake
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@d3cme I have a 2002 dtr imported from the isle of man, has the 3rm-20 cdi. Moved the reed switch about 6 inches just cut the insulation so could pull the 2 wires really out of the way. Mine didn't rev past 7-8000 max till moved the reed switch now revs past 11000 and goes off the clock. If you rev it stood still in neutral does it got to 11000.
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@theportingmaster said in Another New Guy:
@d3cme I have a 2002 dtr imported from the isle of man, has the 3rm-20 cdi. Moved the reed switch about 6 inches just cut the insulation so could pull the 2 wires really out of the way. Mine didn't rev past 7-8000 max till moved the reed switch now revs past 11000 and goes off the clock. If you rev it stood still in neutral does it got to 11000.
This sounds promising then, I’d literally moved it to where the cables were glued into the insulation. I’ve just moved it to under the headlight so will give it a try and report back...
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@NINJA said in Another New Guy:
@d3cme Your water temp sensor may be knackered? Which is a possible cause to your problems, but it sounds like you have another problem causing the restriction. Is the power valve set up correctly? Has the YPVS (?) air bottle been removed? It's number 35 in this pic, it comes off the intake between the carb and air filter box;
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4171936/dt125r-3rmm-2002-050-b/intake
I can’t see anything missing but not sure I can see that part exactly.. will need to strip it back a bit more to see for sure I think.
While I was looking I’ve got 2 ports on the carb without anything on, I got some pics and will look on that site to see if I can see the same view for the carb and work out what they are.
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Sorry half effort answering both of you there.
It will rev freely up to the indicated 10,500rpm redline in neutral or with the clutch in.
Power valve seems to be ok (unless there’s nothing in there if that’s possible?) but was the first thing I checked and did need to align it but didn’t really change anything as I can’t get into the range where it would be wide open
cycles as you’d expect when turning the ignition on and settles lined up now. Battery was knackered when I got the bike so I’ve replaced it, does anything else need resetting/setting up after?Temp sender I’ll get ordered as won’t do much good broken if nothing else (yikes how much!)
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@NINJA said in Another New Guy:
@d3cme You can't miss it dude, it sits against the frame next to the air filter cover, aka that black bottle between the fuel tap and the sprocket;
Take and post a pic of your bike the same as the pic I posted above please dude.
I deffo don’t have that! I’ve got the bracket now I know where it sits... can’t see where it would connect on that elbow though?
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@d3cme said in Another New Guy:
@NINJA said in Another New Guy:
@d3cme You can't miss it dude, it sits against the frame next to the air filter cover, aka that black bottle between the fuel tap and the sprocket;
Take and post a pic of your bike the same as the pic I posted above please dude.
I deffo don’t have that! I’ve got the bracket now I know where it sits... can’t see where it would connect on that elbow though?
The elbow on mine looks like the alternate ‘19’ in the diagram. Not sure what it means though? No YPVS? different YPVS?
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@Calum said in Another New Guy:
@d3cme That's fine, older DTR's don't have that bottle. I removed it from my DTRE and used an older style boot. Eventually deleted it entirely by using a pod filter.
When you say older though, mines a 2002 so later DTR, but early if compared to DTX/DTRE I think? Looks like it’s how it should be as opposed to obviously missing something though.
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@d3cme My DTR was a 2002 and when I removed that boost bottle the bike did not accelerate as fast, plus I lost 10mph off the top speed. As soon as I put it back on the bike was fast again. Now having no bottle may not affect Rpm's but it did slow the bike down. However if the CDI is mapped for a boost bottle, then surely the lack of one would affect the bikes performance???
