CB750 scrambler project
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Finally got the exhaust done.
A few final checks and some cosmetic parts then it's show time.
I did a patina finish to make it rustic... Showing the nickle plate under.
Crash bars on.. only really for a more beefy look.
Can't wait to hear it
Definitely need to get some outside pics. The yellow walls is very distracting
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wrote on 18 Jun 2020, 11:40 last edited byNearly show timing
1st start up attempts coming soon.Tank now decorated.
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wrote on 18 Jun 2020, 14:20 last edited by
Congrats! It’s nice to see someone doing their own thing! Nearly every ride I’ve ever had has been a butchers tripe mix of a thing. Mostly through necessity though!
I’d really love to do a street tracker out of an old Honda CB 200 twin. Nice & lite yet revvy & torquey enough. Think of Girl with the dragon tattoos bike with attitude
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They aren’t easy to find anymore though... -
Congrats! It’s nice to see someone doing their own thing! Nearly every ride I’ve ever had has been a butchers tripe mix of a thing. Mostly through necessity though!
I’d really love to do a street tracker out of an old Honda CB 200 twin. Nice & lite yet revvy & torquey enough. Think of Girl with the dragon tattoos bike with attitude️
They aren’t easy to find anymore though...wrote on 18 Jun 2020, 19:34 last edited by@SpookDog you could do what I did and buy a frame and build it up
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wrote on 22 Jun 2020, 11:43 last edited by
I'm not very familiar with this bike or twin terminal coils.
Bike won't start, I believe it's electrical problem.
No spark.The CDI I bought might be the problem.
On the coil it has 2 electrical connectors (both +) and earth's to chassis.
Ignition on and kill switch to run the voltage on 1 terminal (yellow and blue wire) to both coils has 12v.
But there nothing on the other 2 black / white wires. Not even when cranking over.
Surely there should be 12v to both terminals? -
wrote on 22 Jun 2020, 11:51 last edited by
Depends where you are measuring from. The coils job is to take the 12V DC and step it up to 20KV. So you measuring at 12V is outside the scopes range.
12V isn't enough to jump the spark plug gap.
Measuring Coils is usually done through impedance test on the primary to secondary, secondary to spark plug cap. Should fall within the tolerances outlined by the manufacturer.
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wrote on 22 Jun 2020, 12:09 last edited byThis post is deleted!
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wrote on 22 Jun 2020, 12:45 last edited by
Its a wasted spark system btw
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Depends where you are measuring from. The coils job is to take the 12V DC and step it up to 20KV. So you measuring at 12V is outside the scopes range.
12V isn't enough to jump the spark plug gap.
Measuring Coils is usually done through impedance test on the primary to secondary, secondary to spark plug cap. Should fall within the tolerances outlined by the manufacturer.
wrote on 22 Jun 2020, 13:45 last edited by@Calum thanks, I'm pretty sure both coils are bad. No resistance at all between power/trigger and the caps.
They were second hand, came with the loom.
12.8 volts on the looks power connectors.
New coils, leads and caps on order
I
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wrote on 22 Jun 2020, 15:54 last edited by
Wasted spark is when they both spark at top dead centre?
Have you not gotten any old coil off of another bike? Even a single one that you can get to spark? It would at least prove the rest of the circuit was on par... -
Wasted spark is when they both spark at top dead centre?
Have you not gotten any old coil off of another bike? Even a single one that you can get to spark? It would at least prove the rest of the circuit was on par...wrote on 22 Jun 2020, 17:00 last edited by@SpookDog yes wasted spark system is that.
I've ordered new coils as the primary has 3 ohms which is fine but secondary resistance has no resistance at all. On both. This is 1 fault. I'll have to see if there is others.
They are very old and probably corroded inside -
wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 10:23 last edited by
This is the confusion I have , electrics are not my strongest point.
The manual says the yellow/blue wire goes at the top connector on both coils...
The coils are not handed so the green terminal is at the top on one side and black at the bottom when installed.
That's a what's confusing me
I'm still waiting for the new plug caps to try.I'm also not sure if I need to loop the sidestand indicator light as I removed it... I'm pretty sure it just piggybacks
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wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 10:48 last edited by
If it’s connected to the ignition it could be the cause of your problem, specially if you’re neutral lights not working...
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If it’s connected to the ignition it could be the cause of your problem, specially if you’re neutral lights not working...
wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 10:55 last edited byDo you think that's the problem looking at this?
To me it looks like if the neutral light is on (which it is) it should start.
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wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 10:59 last edited by
So it looks like according to the diagram that the G/W wire needs to be tied to Earth if you want to bypass the side stand switch. The Y/Bl wire can just be taped up. I.E. don't complete the circuit for that.
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So it looks like according to the diagram that the G/W wire needs to be tied to Earth if you want to bypass the side stand switch. The Y/Bl wire can just be taped up. I.E. don't complete the circuit for that.
wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 11:01 last edited by@Calum I have the sidestand switch, all plugged in. Only the indicator light isn't connected. Does that affect it? Cheers.
Also still confused on the wires to the green or black connectors on the coils.
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wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 11:29 last edited by
The light only needs to be there if the side stand is down by the looks of it.
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wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 11:43 last edited by
@Calum that's what I'm thinking but if in neutral then it shouldn't Matter ,?
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wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 16:46 last edited by
I can’t get my head round the diagram at the mo. There are a lot of differences from what I know. What about the diode (number 7) condition?
I know that the live wires on the coils will only affect spark timing if wrong, they should still spark. So I’m guessing that the problem is with the side stand, neutral, cutout circuit somewhere, if there’s no spark still...
Sorry I can’t be more help at the mo’. Too many brewskies!🤪 -
I can’t get my head round the diagram at the mo. There are a lot of differences from what I know. What about the diode (number 7) condition?
I know that the live wires on the coils will only affect spark timing if wrong, they should still spark. So I’m guessing that the problem is with the side stand, neutral, cutout circuit somewhere, if there’s no spark still...
Sorry I can’t be more help at the mo’. Too many brewskies!🤪wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 16:49 last edited by@SpookDog yes it's a crappy diagram, I assume the second bulb is the neutral one.
I've never had a diode go wrong on anything but might test it.
I think it's the side stand ... I'll do more tests when the plug caps come.Thanks
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I can’t get my head round the diagram at the mo. There are a lot of differences from what I know. What about the diode (number 7) condition?
I know that the live wires on the coils will only affect spark timing if wrong, they should still spark. So I’m guessing that the problem is with the side stand, neutral, cutout circuit somewhere, if there’s no spark still...
Sorry I can’t be more help at the mo’. Too many brewskies!🤪wrote on 23 Jun 2020, 17:14 last edited by@SpookDog I think if I try to crank the engine over (on the starter motor) in gear but with the clutch switch pulled in... That would also prove if the silicon diode is faulty
