So Close!...
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I haven’t found a gaiter that doesn’t keep in wet. I’ve pulled them in the middle of summer and had dirty, rusty (seal clip) water run out. I even made drain holes but it didn’t seem to make any difference…
I might try the neoprene ones. If they fail I’m just gonna go with old fashioned dust boots, maybe with stonechip protection extentions. Just to keep the couple inches above the seal of the stanchion from chipping…
Edit: I’m going to try the neoprene ones. I doubt that they last long, but as long as they get me through the salt season (& I dry it all out before fitting) well sealed I’m okay…
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Bikes developed a horrible ‘snatch/shunt’ when changing gear under hard acceleration. Feels like a loose chain but isn’t. The rear linkage is the only point with wear.
Remember to get a bush kit for the rear linkage! Is an All Balls the one to get?…Also, I’m getting a lot of fuel mess around my petrol cap. The seal is actually fine so I’m guessing it’s the pressure vent in the cap?
Anyone recommend a decent replacement? Or are OEMs available?… -
@HOTSHOT-III hey man appreciate the memories. As a 25 year old struggling to get a 35 hour work week and is constantly seeing my piers drive nice cars, have mortgages and all of the rest of it it’s nice to be reminded life isn’t all about money and looking good for other people it’s going it your own way and doing what you love. I relate a lot to what you said and the weight on my shoulders feels a little lighter now. Thank you.
Also @SpookDog whats going on with your bike? I’d have thought she’d be sorted by now
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@Stevie-Wonder No worries dude, TBH reading about what's happened to you and @SpookDog has made me feel quite humble. Good on both of you for keeping on in there and turning things positive.
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I wouldn’t know where to start! It’s been a while and my memory ain’t that good 🤪
Bikes running really sweet at the moment. Toodling along at 5.5K rpm at 55-60 and picking up revs real nice. All is good apart from a ‘snappy’ bush in the rear linkage and my tires are a bit square.
I’ve got some old Bridgestone Battlewing tires that were on the bike when I got it three years ago, I’m thinking about putting them back on. Just to see me through till dry road season…I thought you’d passed your bike test? What with the Fzr or Fazer? CBT was £130 when I did it a year ago, where I am in Dorset. £170? Ouch!…
Nice to see you back on site here..
Keep on Space Trucking!
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Everything happens for reason and a big part of life is your outlook. If you have a positive attitude you’ll see the good in the things that happen and you’ll find more good things tend to happen. Every cloud has a silver lining!
@SpookDog thats brilliant, I thought I’d never see the day. I felt really bad for all the things that kept going wrong! I also admire just how many miles you put on the thing, I love to see people using them as intended not just being garaged.
And unfortunately not, I bought the fazer with the plans that I’d do my test and use it to ride to Scotland with my family to spread my grandads ashes at John O’ Groats. My job at the time then stopped giving me hours and I didn’t get the honour of one last ride with him to his final resting place. Something that unfortunately I’ve never had the privilege of doing. It’s not such a bad thing though, it’s a bloody long ride for someone who’s just passed their test and everyone else but my uncle bailed on riding. Even then my grandads GS750 chop that my uncle was riding ended up in the back of the van with everyone so even if I did ride and the fazer never gave me any troubles I could’ve potentially solo rode to John O’ groats only weeks after passing my test. I only ever got to ride the bike on a handful of occasions, once to the MOT station and on a couple ballsy blips on the road near where I live. The first time I ever hit triple figures was on that bike, I went to overtake two cars coming up to a nasty corner knowing full well that it could end very badly. I just looked up at the sky said a little prayer and made sure my grandad was watching then tucked in, squeezed and let her have it. I had no gear on, just a fox mx helmet. It felt like a matter of seconds before I was doing over 110. I’m not 100% sure of how fast I was going but I glanced at the clocks in between the two cars and saw the needle approaching 120. Scared myself a little bit after that as then I’d realised just how easy it’d be to hurt myself or lose my license. I didn’t ever realise at the time until a conversation with my dad where he pointed out that if you get caught doing over a ton it’s an instant ban. Possibly one of the biggest reality checks I’ve ever had. But damn do I miss that bike, it ran really really well.
Also you too @SpookDog I hold everyone on here with such high regards it really means a lot to hear all the nice things being said by you guys or even that you’d noticed I’d been gone. It caught me off guard and put things in perspective. Feels good to be back, I plan to do a lot less talking and lot more doing (sorry Callum, I know how much you love my wall of text’s
. As always I look forward for you being a part of that journey. As always ride safe. -
@Stevie-Wonder I was reading these the other day and was thinking...well at least he's put paragraphs in.
Anyway, for the moment you're therapeutically explaining your traumas and it's good for you to put it in writing, if nothing else then for your own sakes. This isn't Facebook, we're all friends here.
Yeah @SpookDog is a bit of a legend to be fair with his DT
I've had my DTR some 14 years and he's done more miles in one year than I have in the time I've had mine. Respect 
I must admit though, say what you will about garage queens @Stevie-Wonder....for me it ain't about riding. Don't worry I use my DTR, especially when times are rough it's a great way to lift your spirits. But for me it's more about the modifying/tuning/tinkering. I spend my time alone and I will go weekends without uttering a word but you'll find me in my workshop tinkering.
When I was 17, I saved every single spare penny I earnt. I took full advantage of living at home and the majority of my wages went into my savings. I've never been on holiday, I don't drive a car, I don't drink/smoke/drugs or go out on the razz in town. Every penny goes into my house, for me, the dream was owning my very own garage where my bikes could be cherished.
Sure, I got my full bike/car license, I'm a bike fanatic why wouldn't I, but it was never really about riding. Hunting eBay/Jauce for rare bits, modifying/tinkering, for me that's what this forum is all about. I get just as much enjoyment out of nailing my 125 smokers than I ever have on a big bike. The problem, IMHO, about 4 strokes, is that they're not fast and in order to be fast you need a 750+cc and as you described it's either a death sentence or a license banner. I've worked too hard for the things I've have to throw it all away now. I cycle 20 miles to work every day and I run or cycle most places that I need go within around 40 mile return trip. Annoyingly, my car (Mk1 MX5 Turbo) got crashed into the other week. The joke being someone drove up my private driveway, crashed into it and didn't even leave a note. I don't drive the car often (once a month to keep the thing ticking over) and when I do it's followed up with a wash.
One day I want to be as good as @HOTSHOT-III/@scrimsmustang/@oldman, proper craftsmen and build meticulous works of art
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@SpookDog AllBalls only do the swingarm bearing kit (28-1212) and lower shock bush (29-5027).
https://huntersmotorcycles.co.uk/product/all-balls-racing-swing-arm-bearings-kit-set-28-1212-1117
https://www.mandp.co.uk/products/29-5027-lower-rear-shock-bearing-kit-605946
This is the linkage bearing kit on eBay, comes with everything you need for all 3 linkage bearings (relay arm and both tiebars) but the sleeves don't have the 2mm holes which allow grease to pass from inside the bolts, through the sleeve and into the actual bearing. I tried drilling some once, even cobalt steel drill bits made no impression whatsoever so I guess they must be case hardened, which is a good indication of quality but even so you need those holes if you're paying 120 quid and want it to last. 8' x 6' shed here with a hobby level pillar drill which was given to me but I guess some local engineering shop would have a drill press powerful enough to drill them:
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@SpookDog In practice the linkage bearing sleeves often don't wear so if you vernier your originals up and they're still close to 20mm OD you can just get the linkage parts separately. Relay arm bearings:
https://shop.marksman-ind.com/93315-32052-00-equivalent-yamaha-bearing-29446-p.asp
Linkage bushes:
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p142950/MB2020X-Bronze-Backed-Steel-Bush-20x23x20mm/product_info.htmlDouble check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Can anybod link me to somewhere selling AllBalls rear linkage bush/bearing, seal, bolt, repair, ect kit?
I can’t seem to be able to find it…
Had bought everything from Greek official Yamaha dealer with their part numbers.
Doesn't matter if it's old part number,they will sent you the replacement one. Most of the times they have very good prices that you saves you from the hassle of multiple different purchases.
Did you try it at UK? -
@MadGyver It's good to hear genuine Yamaha parts are reasonably priced in Greece but they can be very expensive here in the UK. The relay arm bearings for example are about £35 each meaning you can have ten from Marksman Industrial for the price of two from Fowlers, and just keep changing them. And they're exactly the same part, just an engineering consumable of Japanese manufacture. Same story with the bushes from Simply Bearings, in fact if you look at the link these are available in widths up to 25mm which give more load-bearing area than the Yamaha items.
The seals from Simply Bearings are also better as they're double lipped with a garter spring (the genuine seals only have a single lip and are much more expensive). This means you can do the seal mod where you flip the seals so the garter spring faces outwards away from the bearing; the lip without the spring is just a dust wiper so you can then cut small sections out of this with Swiss Army Knife scissors (best/sharpest scissors I've ever used) or one of those leather punches so when you re-lube the linkage bearings with a grease gun, the hydraulic pressure is less likely to force the seals out. The grease is free to pass through the gaps in the dust seal lip (now on the inside) and lift up the lip with the garter spring as it moves through the bearing. The sprung lip then retracts, retaining enough grease inside the bearing and keeping dirt out.
If like me you're ham-fisted with the grease gun, it will still try and force out the seals so you can also hacksaw a section out of an M20 washer to make it U-shaped and insert it in the gap between the tiebars and the arm during greasing to prevent this (with the linkage bolted together and the seals where they should be, you can actually move the tiebar/sleeve assembly 2-3mm side to side; useful after you've greased up everything as with the bike on a MX bike stand, you can move it fully each way with light taps from a rubber mallet to make it splodge the excess grease away from the bearings/seals, then clean it all off thoroughly to prevent any getting on the rear tyre).
The cost of living is very high in the UK and the overcharging by some companies is just unreasonable, meaning many people end up adopting a state of mind where they are prepared to go out of their way to avoid giving that particular company or industry any money.
Here is an example; I've developed an interest in restoring mid-2000s mountain bikes because I don't want to buy a new one, and I happen to like 26" wheels and 3x9 transmissions (fun fact: a modern 29" wheel bike with 1x11 transmission gives up 10% climbing ability and 10% top speed compared to my bikes). So this week I found a 2006 S-Works Stumpjumper which has rear suspension which automatically switches between lockout and open. I have some Fox 32 forks which have the same feature, but you can't get parts for them any more because the UK MTB industry is trying to force me to buy a new bike/forks etc. The base valve in the damper has an adjustable blowoff valve with several O-rings I would like to replace whilst servicing the forks, but I don't have the special tool to get this apart and it had been Loctited by the previous owner. After 3 days of thinking it over, I finally managed this last night by gently heating it, then using a strap wrench with a small section of #1500 wet and dry to grip the cylindrical housing without damaging it (it's the thickness of an egg shell). So now I can fully service my 2007 Fox forks, and when they're fitted to this bike I'll be able to tune exactly when both ends change from locked out to open and make the forks and shock match each other, my riding style, weight, favourite trails etc.
Again I'm pleased for you that Yamaha parts are priced fairly where you live but it's not the case here in the UK so you have to wait until it starts raining (as it most assuredly will), go into the shed and get inventive. Just have to measure up the O-rings now which is usually the most difficult part! Cheers bud
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If a drill won’t make a hole, how about a small ‘slot’ with a dremmel cutting wheel? Do you think it would fux up the integrity of the sleeve? I’m inclined to be wanting grease delivered into it, rather than how pretty it looks inside there!
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