So Close!...
-
@SpookDog I think it would affect the structural integrity to be honest, the torque setting for those linkage bolts is about 60Nm so that sleeve is under compression when they're tightened. A round hole is still a stress riser but not quite in the same league as a straight cut.
Easier to find someone on one of the industrial estates who can drill them. Or start by getting this and measuring your old ones, I don't think I ever had to replace one of those sleeves:
Or IIRC genuine ones are about £25 each from Fowlers so if you get all the other bits using the links I posted up, you'll end up with a rear linkage which can be greased externally for 3(£25) + 2(£7) + 6(£3) = £107.00 which is less than the eBay kit. TBH I'd do that, and you'll have enough left over to spend 9 quid on a digital vernier which once you have it, you'll find yourself using every day
wrote on 7 Mar 2024, 22:04 last edited by -
wrote on 10 Mar 2024, 12:39 last edited by SpookDog 3 Oct 2024, 12:43
Just an update that things are still going well with the bike. It’s running sweet as nuts!
The one strange thing is that I got so used to riding at 5-6K RPM that I still haven’t taken it over 6K, even though I know it’s sound now! I mean it cruises at 60mph at about 5 ~ 5 & 1/2K! Depending on the windy weather.
I don’t know if I’m being cautious or have developed a fear of the redline!
I keep telling myself that I’m waiting for the dry spring roads and a new set of (non square) tires!…
The clutch cable snapped again after only 8 weeks of use. It’s a Slinky that let go at the nipple. The last one saw me through 2years and 20,000+ miles, go figure!
I’ve got another Slinky and a proper clutch perch to put on. The one that came with the bike isn’t righteous, the lever just doesn’t fit right and it only has one pinch bolt, as well as fouling the grip slightly…I’m neck deep in fitting a new kitchen sink, work surface and tiles, ect to my siss’s kitchen at the moment, as well as building cupboards!
It’s the least I can do, she got me the Dtr when I was down on my arse!…Still haven’t found a dry enough spell to wash and ACF~50 it yet!…
Got to keep busy or go crazy looking at the state of the world!…
-
wrote on 11 Mar 2024, 07:59 last edited by
Only ever buy genuine cables. Aftermarket ones man...pain in the arse.
-
Just an update that things are still going well with the bike. It’s running sweet as nuts!
The one strange thing is that I got so used to riding at 5-6K RPM that I still haven’t taken it over 6K, even though I know it’s sound now! I mean it cruises at 60mph at about 5 ~ 5 & 1/2K! Depending on the windy weather.
I don’t know if I’m being cautious or have developed a fear of the redline!I keep telling myself that I’m waiting for the dry spring roads and a new set of (non square) tires!…
The clutch cable snapped again after only 8 weeks of use. It’s a Slinky that let go at the nipple. The last one saw me through 2years and 20,000+ miles, go figure!
I’ve got another Slinky and a proper clutch perch to put on. The one that came with the bike isn’t righteous, the lever just doesn’t fit right and it only has one pinch bolt, as well as fouling the grip slightly…I’m neck deep in fitting a new kitchen sink, work surface and tiles, ect to my siss’s kitchen at the moment, as well as building cupboards!
It’s the least I can do, she got me the Dtr when I was down on my arse!…Still haven’t found a dry enough spell to wash and ACF~50 it yet!…
Got to keep busy or go crazy looking at the state of the world!…
wrote on 11 Mar 2024, 22:48 last edited by SpookDog 3 Nov 2024, 22:50Anyone else get this kinda exhaust spatter?
The clear bit is where my bag strap crosses my shoulder…
It’s weird that it back sprays up?!…
-
wrote on 12 Mar 2024, 01:11 last edited by
@Calum they’re very hit and miss. I’ve used pattern speedo cables and Rev ones and had no issues. IIRC it’s always the throttle and clutch to watch out for.
@SpookDog glad to hear she’s all going well! Don’t be afraid of cracking the throttle open! One of my favourite memories was when my bike wasn’t running 100% I’d looked at loads of things and couldn’t find the issue I took her out for a ride where I said fuck it went on to the bypass and just held the throttle wide open (after all what’s the worst that can happen). She chugged coughed and splattered for a good minute refusing to Rev past 5/6k then suddenly bang. Off like a fucking rocket. Dont think I’ve ever been caught so off guard. Moral of the story mechanical sympathy is great but you’re doing a two stroke a disservice if you don’t kick its head in occasionally
-
@Calum they’re very hit and miss. I’ve used pattern speedo cables and Rev ones and had no issues. IIRC it’s always the throttle and clutch to watch out for.
@SpookDog glad to hear she’s all going well! Don’t be afraid of cracking the throttle open! One of my favourite memories was when my bike wasn’t running 100% I’d looked at loads of things and couldn’t find the issue I took her out for a ride where I said fuck it went on to the bypass and just held the throttle wide open (after all what’s the worst that can happen). She chugged coughed and splattered for a good minute refusing to Rev past 5/6k then suddenly bang. Off like a fucking rocket. Dont think I’ve ever been caught so off guard. Moral of the story mechanical sympathy is great but you’re doing a two stroke a disservice if you don’t kick its head in occasionally
wrote on 12 Mar 2024, 08:21 last edited by HOTSHOT III 3 Dec 2024, 11:16@Stevie-Wonder Agreed, it's important to give any two-stroke a good thrash through the gears at least once every time you ride it to blow out all the accumulated gunk.
@SpookDog This splattered jacket business is a timely reminder to get your Autolube pump rebuilt and refitted. As discussed previously, premixing is always a compromise as you're stuck with whatever oil ratio you decide to run at that time regardless of engine speed or riding style. It's fine for competition bikes as they usually spend their time being used for one particular riding style or another so a trials bike spending most of its time at low revs riding over logs and oil drums can get away with 100:1 terpentine, whilst a YZ125 being given the beans everywhere to equal the lap times of a CR500 positively laps up that 35:1 treacle. A two-stroke road bike has a more complex set of requirements, most of the time it's being ridden to Highway Code standard in traffic but sometimes you need to bang it down two gears and pin it to overtake slower vehicles. So the mechanical engine management of Autolube which constantly varies the oil ratio according to how the bike is being ridden at the time equates to a much cleaner running bike and a healthier engine.
If that jacket can be washed without losing its waterproofing properties, it would be a good experiment to do this at the same time as getting your oil pump back on the bike and then seeing if the splattering comes back. IIRC we looked into DT200R vs. DT125R oil delivery rates a few weeks ago and they were found to be virtually the same? Here's a link to the post:
-
@Stevie-Wonder Agreed, it's important to give any two-stroke a good thrash through the gears at least once every time you ride it to blow out all the accumulated gunk.
@SpookDog This splattered jacket business is a timely reminder to get your Autolube pump rebuilt and refitted. As discussed previously, premixing is always a compromise as you're stuck with whatever oil ratio you decide to run at that time regardless of engine speed or riding style. It's fine for competition bikes as they usually spend their time being used for one particular riding style or another so a trials bike spending most of its time at low revs riding over logs and oil drums can get away with 100:1 terpentine, whilst a YZ125 being given the beans everywhere to equal the lap times of a CR500 positively laps up that 35:1 treacle. A two-stroke road bike has a more complex set of requirements, most of the time it's being ridden to Highway Code standard in traffic but sometimes you need to bang it down two gears and pin it to overtake slower vehicles. So the mechanical engine management of Autolube which constantly varies the oil ratio according to how the bike is being ridden at the time equates to a much cleaner running bike and a healthier engine.
If that jacket can be washed without losing its waterproofing properties, it would be a good experiment to do this at the same time as getting your oil pump back on the bike and then seeing if the splattering comes back. IIRC we looked into DT200R vs. DT125R oil delivery rates a few weeks ago and they were found to be virtually the same? Here's a link to the post:
wrote on 13 Mar 2024, 16:59 last edited byCheers bud! I’m sorry, I totally forgot. I’ve been so busy with my Sisters kitchen that I’ve put the Dtr on the back burner!
I haven’t even fitted the new clutch lever&perch and cable. I’ve been using the old frayed one from before…Priorities dictate, Yada ~ Yada, Yada!…
-
wrote on 13 Mar 2024, 19:45 last edited by
@Stevie-Wonder Obviously haven't had a two stroke seize on you...
https://youtu.be/g5_A5oi7wC0?si=Nk_odNb7xHzDdZhc&t=36Nasty when this happens and you're on a bend and is very common on two strokes unfortunately.
-
Cheers bud! I’m sorry, I totally forgot. I’ve been so busy with my Sisters kitchen that I’ve put the Dtr on the back burner!
I haven’t even fitted the new clutch lever&perch and cable. I’ve been using the old frayed one from before…Priorities dictate, Yada ~ Yada, Yada!…
wrote on 13 Mar 2024, 21:48 last edited by@SpookDog Understood bud, only so many hours in the day!
I'm pretty crap at anything building/DIY, post up some kitchen pics when you're done
-
Cheers bud! I’m sorry, I totally forgot. I’ve been so busy with my Sisters kitchen that I’ve put the Dtr on the back burner!
I haven’t even fitted the new clutch lever&perch and cable. I’ve been using the old frayed one from before…Priorities dictate, Yada ~ Yada, Yada!…
wrote on 16 Mar 2024, 20:37 last edited byGot to love a survivor!…
I wish my lid was as resilient!
… -
@Stevie-Wonder Obviously haven't had a two stroke seize on you...
https://youtu.be/g5_A5oi7wC0?si=Nk_odNb7xHzDdZhc&t=36Nasty when this happens and you're on a bend and is very common on two strokes unfortunately.
wrote on 21 Mar 2024, 21:58 last edited by@Calum luckily not, I’ve seen videos and learned to ride with my fingers over the clutch just in case, but I’ve never thought about it suddenly happening mid corner.
Oddly enough I see a young guy on an rs extrema, I passed him some compliments then next thing you know hes blapping the throttle going around a tight corner. I could help but think of your comment
-
@Calum luckily not, I’ve seen videos and learned to ride with my fingers over the clutch just in case, but I’ve never thought about it suddenly happening mid corner.
Oddly enough I see a young guy on an rs extrema, I passed him some compliments then next thing you know hes blapping the throttle going around a tight corner. I could help but think of your comment
wrote on 22 Mar 2024, 13:03 last edited byI don’t know if it’s a bad habit or not, but since I had the Dtr’s teething troubles I always ride with my Churchill’s over the clutch, sometimes the brake as well. I have my back brake set so that my foot is comfortably over the pedal…
I’ve had 3 or 4 heat seizures in my time. I’ve always managed to whip in the clutch In time. To the point where I could kick it over straight away afterwards…Used to hover the clutch in a car as well…
————————————-
Just fitted the new clutch perch and lever, as well as a new Slinky cable. The action feels like a hot knife and butter now! I never realised how wrong the one it came with was, or how it used to bind…
If I could afford £50 for a genuine clutch cable I would. Or if I had a genuine outer I’d fit a stainless cable and solderless nipple.
The one cable that I will only use genuine is the throttle. My bike came with an aftermarket one and it’s shite. Not so bad if you’re pre mixed but absolutely necessary with auto lube… -
I don’t know if it’s a bad habit or not, but since I had the Dtr’s teething troubles I always ride with my Churchill’s over the clutch, sometimes the brake as well. I have my back brake set so that my foot is comfortably over the pedal…
I’ve had 3 or 4 heat seizures in my time. I’ve always managed to whip in the clutch In time. To the point where I could kick it over straight away afterwards…Used to hover the clutch in a car as well…
————————————-
Just fitted the new clutch perch and lever, as well as a new Slinky cable. The action feels like a hot knife and butter now! I never realised how wrong the one it came with was, or how it used to bind…
If I could afford £50 for a genuine clutch cable I would. Or if I had a genuine outer I’d fit a stainless cable and solderless nipple.
The one cable that I will only use genuine is the throttle. My bike came with an aftermarket one and it’s shite. Not so bad if you’re pre mixed but absolutely necessary with auto lube…wrote on 29 Mar 2024, 11:53 last edited by SpookDogDoes anyone think that the position of the front calliper can affect its performance?
I have exactly the same calliper on the front and rear (30mm piston) but the front brake only has 1/3 of the effectiveness of the rear, as far as I know this is totally back to front! The front is normally 70% of the total performance, no?…
I can’t get my head around how woeful the front brake performance is. It makes no sense. They both have Brembo carbon ceramic pads…I really want to find someone who does waterjet cutting, or something similar, to make a rotor that will fit the Dtr’s front hub and take a floating disc from a donor. Whatever size/make that is the most inexpensive/common. Then design an ally mount to couple it with a Brembo 2 piston calliper, or such, that will fit the spoke to disc clearance…
Somebody needs to do a decent affordable upgrade!… -
wrote on 29 Mar 2024, 12:06 last edited by
Brakes on my DTR were horrendous.
Don't have that problem any more, bike stops on a DIME!
-
wrote on 18 Apr 2024, 11:02 last edited by
I don’t think that it is. There’s no play on the lever, let alone sponginess, but I don’t think it’s getting the full pressure of the system at the pads. I can’t see any other reason…
47,125 miles today! That’s 34K since I’ve been riding
… -
I don’t think that it is. There’s no play on the lever, let alone sponginess, but I don’t think it’s getting the full pressure of the system at the pads. I can’t see any other reason…
47,125 miles today! That’s 34K since I’ve been riding
… -
@SpookDog In practice the linkage bearing sleeves often don't wear so if you vernier your originals up and they're still close to 20mm OD you can just get the linkage parts separately. Relay arm bearings:
https://shop.marksman-ind.com/93315-32052-00-equivalent-yamaha-bearing-29446-p.asp
Linkage bushes:
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p142950/MB2020X-Bronze-Backed-Steel-Bush-20x23x20mm/product_info.htmlDouble check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
wrote on 27 Apr 2024, 18:26 last edited by SpookDogDouble check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
Is there anyone who knows the sizes of the needle-roller bearings and the phosphor bronze bushes definitely? The only way I can find out is to strip down the linkage first. I don’t want to take the bike off of the road though. Also I’ll probably destroy the bearings and bushes during removal! From what I remember the bearings were loose rollers that I had to stick/pack into place with grease, only the outer ‘cages’ were drift~fitted inside the linkage to frame union. They were very thin gauge metal and easily damaged…
Ta!…
PS. Is the 20mm inner or outer?…
Edit: The inner is 20mm on both bearings and bushes. Are the bearings 23mm outer like the bushes?…
-
Double check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
Is there anyone who knows the sizes of the needle-roller bearings and the phosphor bronze bushes definitely? The only way I can find out is to strip down the linkage first. I don’t want to take the bike off of the road though. Also I’ll probably destroy the bearings and bushes during removal! From what I remember the bearings were loose rollers that I had to stick/pack into place with grease, only the outer ‘cages’ were drift~fitted inside the linkage to frame union. They were very thin gauge metal and easily damaged…
Ta!…
PS. Is the 20mm inner or outer?…
Edit: The inner is 20mm on both bearings and bushes. Are the bearings 23mm outer like the bushes?…
wrote on 4 May 2024, 15:37 last edited byWell, I couldn’t confirm the sizes, so I’m hoping that they’re right so I don’t have to Rip t Piss out of Hotshot!!
I’m just praying that the sleeves are in good enough order (especially the roller bearing one) to match up nicely
…