So Close!...
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@Stevie-Wonder Obviously haven't had a two stroke seize on you...
https://youtu.be/g5_A5oi7wC0?si=Nk_odNb7xHzDdZhc&t=36Nasty when this happens and you're on a bend and is very common on two strokes unfortunately.
@Calum luckily not, I’ve seen videos and learned to ride with my fingers over the clutch just in case, but I’ve never thought about it suddenly happening mid corner.
Oddly enough I see a young guy on an rs extrema, I passed him some compliments then next thing you know hes blapping the throttle going around a tight corner. I could help but think of your comment
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@Calum luckily not, I’ve seen videos and learned to ride with my fingers over the clutch just in case, but I’ve never thought about it suddenly happening mid corner.
Oddly enough I see a young guy on an rs extrema, I passed him some compliments then next thing you know hes blapping the throttle going around a tight corner. I could help but think of your comment
I don’t know if it’s a bad habit or not, but since I had the Dtr’s teething troubles I always ride with my Churchill’s over the clutch, sometimes the brake as well. I have my back brake set so that my foot is comfortably over the pedal…
I’ve had 3 or 4 heat seizures in my time. I’ve always managed to whip in the clutch In time. To the point where I could kick it over straight away afterwards…Used to hover the clutch in a car as well…
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Just fitted the new clutch perch and lever, as well as a new Slinky cable. The action feels like a hot knife and butter now! I never realised how wrong the one it came with was, or how it used to bind…
If I could afford £50 for a genuine clutch cable I would. Or if I had a genuine outer I’d fit a stainless cable and solderless nipple.
The one cable that I will only use genuine is the throttle. My bike came with an aftermarket one and it’s shite. Not so bad if you’re pre mixed but absolutely necessary with auto lube… -
I don’t know if it’s a bad habit or not, but since I had the Dtr’s teething troubles I always ride with my Churchill’s over the clutch, sometimes the brake as well. I have my back brake set so that my foot is comfortably over the pedal…
I’ve had 3 or 4 heat seizures in my time. I’ve always managed to whip in the clutch In time. To the point where I could kick it over straight away afterwards…Used to hover the clutch in a car as well…
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Just fitted the new clutch perch and lever, as well as a new Slinky cable. The action feels like a hot knife and butter now! I never realised how wrong the one it came with was, or how it used to bind…
If I could afford £50 for a genuine clutch cable I would. Or if I had a genuine outer I’d fit a stainless cable and solderless nipple.
The one cable that I will only use genuine is the throttle. My bike came with an aftermarket one and it’s shite. Not so bad if you’re pre mixed but absolutely necessary with auto lube…Does anyone think that the position of the front calliper can affect its performance?
I have exactly the same calliper on the front and rear (30mm piston) but the front brake only has 1/3 of the effectiveness of the rear, as far as I know this is totally back to front! The front is normally 70% of the total performance, no?…
I can’t get my head around how woeful the front brake performance is. It makes no sense. They both have Brembo carbon ceramic pads…I really want to find someone who does waterjet cutting, or something similar, to make a rotor that will fit the Dtr’s front hub and take a floating disc from a donor. Whatever size/make that is the most inexpensive/common. Then design an ally mount to couple it with a Brembo 2 piston calliper, or such, that will fit the spoke to disc clearance…
Somebody needs to do a decent affordable upgrade!… -
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I don’t think that it is. There’s no play on the lever, let alone sponginess, but I don’t think it’s getting the full pressure of the system at the pads. I can’t see any other reason…
47,125 miles today! That’s 34K since I’ve been riding
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@SpookDog In practice the linkage bearing sleeves often don't wear so if you vernier your originals up and they're still close to 20mm OD you can just get the linkage parts separately. Relay arm bearings:
https://shop.marksman-ind.com/93315-32052-00-equivalent-yamaha-bearing-29446-p.asp
Linkage bushes:
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p142950/MB2020X-Bronze-Backed-Steel-Bush-20x23x20mm/product_info.htmlDouble check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
Double check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
Is there anyone who knows the sizes of the needle-roller bearings and the phosphor bronze bushes definitely? The only way I can find out is to strip down the linkage first. I don’t want to take the bike off of the road though. Also I’ll probably destroy the bearings and bushes during removal! From what I remember the bearings were loose rollers that I had to stick/pack into place with grease, only the outer ‘cages’ were drift~fitted inside the linkage to frame union. They were very thin gauge metal and easily damaged…
Ta!…
PS. Is the 20mm inner or outer?…
Edit: The inner is 20mm on both bearings and bushes. Are the bearings 23mm outer like the bushes?…
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Double check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
Is there anyone who knows the sizes of the needle-roller bearings and the phosphor bronze bushes definitely? The only way I can find out is to strip down the linkage first. I don’t want to take the bike off of the road though. Also I’ll probably destroy the bearings and bushes during removal! From what I remember the bearings were loose rollers that I had to stick/pack into place with grease, only the outer ‘cages’ were drift~fitted inside the linkage to frame union. They were very thin gauge metal and easily damaged…
Ta!…
PS. Is the 20mm inner or outer?…
Edit: The inner is 20mm on both bearings and bushes. Are the bearings 23mm outer like the bushes?…
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Well, I couldn’t confirm the sizes, so I’m hoping that they’re right so I don’t have to Rip t Piss out of Hotshot!!
I’m just praying that the sleeves are in good enough order (especially the roller bearing one) to match up nicely
…Stopped riding for about six months cause of old git health problems, only just renewed my CBT again!
Took me over a year to fit the new bearings and bushes into the rear suspension linkage! Didn’t realise how big of a faff it was going to be to get them pressed in straight and to the depth that’s needed for the seals! Done though. Nice and tight on the ass end! No more ‘snatchy chain’ feel when pulling awayIs HotShot still around? I need some info on wheel builders in Dorset. I can’t find the old post recommending a particular one. My back wheel is a bit up and down, as well as being a bit side to side…
Unless anyone has a decent straight rear wheel for sale?…
Ta!… -
Oh hey blast from the past!
Yeah @HOTSHOT-III is still knocking about.
Sorry to hear about your health problems, considering how much you use your DT that's a crying shame.
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Stopped riding for about six months cause of old git health problems, only just renewed my CBT again!
Took me over a year to fit the new bearings and bushes into the rear suspension linkage! Didn’t realise how big of a faff it was going to be to get them pressed in straight and to the depth that’s needed for the seals! Done though. Nice and tight on the ass end! No more ‘snatchy chain’ feel when pulling awayIs HotShot still around? I need some info on wheel builders in Dorset. I can’t find the old post recommending a particular one. My back wheel is a bit up and down, as well as being a bit side to side…
Unless anyone has a decent straight rear wheel for sale?…
Ta!…@SpookDog Hey bud, hope you're feeling better. I did wonder what had happened to you.
Good to hear you've sorted the rear suspension
Try Salisbury Wheel Builders over in Ringwood: https://salisbury-wheel-builders.ueniweb.com/ 01202 081994
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@SpookDog Hey bud, hope you're feeling better. I did wonder what had happened to you.
Good to hear you've sorted the rear suspension
Try Salisbury Wheel Builders over in Ringwood: https://salisbury-wheel-builders.ueniweb.com/ 01202 081994
Still going well mechanically, just looks like a dog
Cheers for the link bud!…
I really need some hubs if anyone knows of any for sale? Back one is way more urgent than the front!
Only issue is it seems to be running a bit hot. I removed the plastic cover from the radiator and it was an improvement, but not great. I’m wondering if being stood up and hardly ridden since last winter has let the radiator clog up? The radiator was well hot when I checked it. Like it’s not shedding the heat. The ‘fins’ look clear, so I’m wondering if it’s an internal obstruction?
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It's looking smart with that pipe on it.
The usual suspect for running hot can be the thermostat.
I must admit, DTs always seem to run hot, I tried all sorts (including twin radiators) and the solution for me was to remove the thermostat.
This is really not ideal as the thermostat is an integral part of the engines cooling, it applies pressure to the cylinder head and prevents hot spots from forming.
But I found the DT was just running too hot and would benefit from a lower temperature thermostat (especially if tuned).
But as they say Mr Yamaha know what they're doing and it's a tried and tested machine
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Still going well mechanically, just looks like a dog
Cheers for the link bud!…
I really need some hubs if anyone knows of any for sale? Back one is way more urgent than the front!
Only issue is it seems to be running a bit hot. I removed the plastic cover from the radiator and it was an improvement, but not great. I’m wondering if being stood up and hardly ridden since last winter has let the radiator clog up? The radiator was well hot when I checked it. Like it’s not shedding the heat. The ‘fins’ look clear, so I’m wondering if it’s an internal obstruction?
@SpookDog Thermostat definitely worth a look as @Calum said. Also the rad could have a blockage, it's not unheard of. I've had some success on cars blocking off the ends, filling them half full of Gunk/Jizer and giving them a good shake before rinsing with a garden hose. I like doing this on the outside of radiators as well, get loads of degreaser in the fins and it's amazing how much crap you can hose out. And I'd still take a look at the fins particulalrly on the back of the rad as they're prone to being folded over by people doing plug changes etc. which can considerably reduce flow through them. It can be quite relaxing to take a thin screwdriver and straighten every single fin and this can make DTRs run a bit cooler.
Also have you taken a look at the waterpump? Being a plastic impeller moulded onto a steel shaft it's possible this could have separated meaning it's no longer making the coolant circulate. TBH I've never known this to happen on the DTR but worth checking on a high mileage bike.
@OllieDTR Has Liam got any wheels for sale? Would be a fairly local solution...
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@SpookDog Thermostat definitely worth a look as @Calum said. Also the rad could have a blockage, it's not unheard of. I've had some success on cars blocking off the ends, filling them half full of Gunk/Jizer and giving them a good shake before rinsing with a garden hose. I like doing this on the outside of radiators as well, get loads of degreaser in the fins and it's amazing how much crap you can hose out. And I'd still take a look at the fins particulalrly on the back of the rad as they're prone to being folded over by people doing plug changes etc. which can considerably reduce flow through them. It can be quite relaxing to take a thin screwdriver and straighten every single fin and this can make DTRs run a bit cooler.
Also have you taken a look at the waterpump? Being a plastic impeller moulded onto a steel shaft it's possible this could have separated meaning it's no longer making the coolant circulate. TBH I've never known this to happen on the DTR but worth checking on a high mileage bike.
@OllieDTR Has Liam got any wheels for sale? Would be a fairly local solution...
Cheers guys!...
I've got a half decent rad i bought a while back. alot better than the used stuff you normally see on fleabay. i'm gonna flush that and leak test it, as well as checking for decent flowrate. Ill order a new thermostat and do them both together...
Has anyone looked at the replacement rads on fleabay? there's a chinese one for £90 and a chek one for £114. i'm leaning towards the chinese one just because the quality of the TIG weld looks to a much better standard.
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I've never had any luck with the Chinese ones
winner racing. I say that but the ones I bought for my ETX were from them and they actually fit, sort of.But I have bought numerous previous one to no avail.
It’s a shame that they’re shite, because I think the radiator is the main problem. If it was the thermostat I’d of thought that it would overheat from the start, but it keeps cool enough for a while depending on how hot it is and how slow I’m going (less air flow over the radiator). The radiator is well hot to the touch!
I’m waiting on a new stat and gasket from PJME and I’m going to flush the radiator that’s on the bike with a hose in the meantime. The fins on the back are better than my other radiator, which is originally pristine in every way apart from the rear fins being the worst I’ve personally seen
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It’s a shame that they’re shite, because I think the radiator is the main problem. If it was the thermostat I’d of thought that it would overheat from the start, but it keeps cool enough for a while depending on how hot it is and how slow I’m going (less air flow over the radiator). The radiator is well hot to the touch!
I’m waiting on a new stat and gasket from PJME and I’m going to flush the radiator that’s on the bike with a hose in the meantime. The fins on the back are better than my other radiator, which is originally pristine in every way apart from the rear fins being the worst I’ve personally seen
Any decent fan kits to mount to the radiator? Adjustable thermo activated switch, shrouded to pull air through from the rear of the radiator?…
I’ve got some work to do first, there was oil scum in the radiator and I guess all the way through the thermostat, pump and system. (I’m wondering if the stat is all gummed up) The pump rotor and seals were replaced when I rebuilt the bottom end…
It’s not the head gasket blowing though, it’s not pushing coolant into the expansion tank or noticeably lowering the level in the radiator.
I had problems with a slight step in the casings at the rear of the barrel which I thought I had fixed. There’s a ‘wet line’ between the barrel and inlet manifold that seems to support my theory.I’m waiting on a new genuine base gasket, thermostat and some Loctite VHT copper RTV sealant, as well as the thermostat and gasket…
