So Close!...
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@SpookDog Also just had a look on Fowlers Parts, the 3RM DT125R and 3ET DT200R output shafts, sprocket lock washer and spacer behind the front sprocket are all the same part number. Only the sprocket nut is different (I guess thinner to accomodate the 200's 520 front sprocket) so I can't see that affecting sprocket alignment (unless someone has tried to bodge it with a DT200R sprocket nut and extra washer between the front sprocket and spacer, but this would be very unlikely).
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4105071/dt125r-3rm5-1993-999-a/transmission
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4059369/dt200r-3et1-1988-010-b/transmission
Only other thing I can think of would be if the bearing behind the front sprocket is on the way out allowing the output shaft to move around. This does happen eventually when people adjust chains too tight on bikes with long-travel suspension but would be very noisy if it were that far gone and you'd be noticing oil leaks and gear selection problems and all kinds of stuff...
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@HOTSHOT-III Yeah I didn't even realise the swinging arm even had adjustment! That's pretty meticulous to say the least. I know that the Aprilia has a swingingarm tension bolt procedure, but again it's never something I have ever done.
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Cheers for the info bud! I did the swingarm shims check by the Haynes manual. It was a while ago though. Put 20,000 miles on it since then
I do have the rear spindle but on the chain side, with the snail cams having the flat edge down. Don’t know if that affects it at all?
My swingarm ‘knobbles’ are a bit fubar tho, one of them (the sprocket side one) is flattened off where the cam touches it. Even allowing for this I don’t think it would affect the front sprocket like has happened?!
It’s like the front cog wants to be out 1mm more, or the rear 1mm in further… -
Thanks again for putting my mind to rest on the rear spacers!…
The other thing I forgot to ask was if anyone knew if Tzr sprocket spacers were different than Dtr ones? My bike is a pure mongrel and may well have a tzr lump in it for all I know …At some point I’m going to have to check that I definitely fitted the 0.8mm shim on the sprocket side of the swing arm as well, would explain a lot if I didn’t
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@SpookDog Depending on what TZR you're referring to...the TZRs ran a completely different engine. It was only the Belgarda models that ran the DTR lumps and you'd know if you were running one of those. They have
Motori Minarellistamps on them all over. -
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Second hand forks, yokes and spindle arrived today! Really good condition for the price (£50 + 20 post). Swingarm arrived last week, things are looking good…
5090 miles and my head gasket let go today as well
I’m actually surprised it lasted as long as it did! It was over the previous 700 mile threshold for failure before I found and fixed the weak idle jet mixture fault, so it must have taken a lot of misfire/knocking abuse before it was fixed!…
I just need to work out my plan of action next. I’ll probably just throw on a new gasket and rings with a re-hone to see me through the winter. I’ve got another bottom end & crank I’d really like to build with new Koyo bearings and seals to mate to a fresh rebore & piston… -
Does every dtr frame have a kinda U-shaped tubular piece that bolts onto the back of the frame, under the mudguard? I saw a picture of a frame with said bit fitted, but mine just ends in 2 flattened tubes with holes in them…
I’ve never seen this bit before the 1 picture, so I could do with some guidance from people that have original, righteous frames… -
@SpookDog
I take it your frame doesn’t have the rear sub frame attached ? Earlier 80’s models the frame goes round in a continuous bend. Later models had a bolt on rear subframe which have a kink above the exhaust to allow you to hold on to the rear of the bike. The 2002 DT125R I bought for my son didn’t have the rear subframe or shopping rack, common practice is to junk them and jack the rear mudguard up to give the bike the Crosser look, mind you both replacements were purchased on eBay for about £100 each from memory. And hens teeth to get hold of. Neither of them were straight and took a bit of manhandling to get right. Look up on fowlers parts for the year/model of frame and if you need a sub frame it will be displayed on that page. Sometimes it’s pictured with the rear mudguard. -
Cheers bud! It’s good to know these things. I’d love to have a proper good gurn at a righteous standard 88 bike just so I can see & list all the bits I’m missing. One of the many previous boners deleted the rear foot peg mounting holes, as well as I don’t know what else!
There are loads of bits n bobs I’d like to get, rear reservoir ‘lock’ cap, same for rad cap, oil bottle. Original reusable cable/frame ties, CDI rubber mount, & on & on&on… -
@SpookDog
Try WWW.ALEADO.COM
it’s a Japanese broker a bit like eBay, but you give them the money open an account bid on the item and the seller sends it to them and they forward it on to you in the UK. Usually see older better parts for sale. There not always cheap but you find they are better condition. Also change your country setting on eBay if you use that… always find parts are better from France and Germany ! -
203675742903 On eBay is that what your looking for ?
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Head is still leaking but very slowly/slightly, it doesn’t overflow the expansion tank unless I ride middle-hard (not flat out) I’ve ordered a 27mm hex drive (1/2 drive) for the forks. I have another new head gasket but I’m going to try and limp through the salt season, until spring before fitting any new parts. I’ll do the head if it gets worse but I really want to get my old barrel rebored by PJME (best finish I’ve seen on a bore!) Also I’ve a crank I want to get rebuilt and balanced. My bike doesn’t want to rev above 7-8k in gear, which doesn’t seem right?…
Need to get new bottom end bearings and seals all through, clutch buffer rubbers and a new rear shock, as well as dreaded swingarm & linkage bearings, bushes and seals
I wish that Satan Claus didn’t see me as naughty, it’s all so expensive a labour of love!
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Whoa! Just went for a 35~40mile jaunt, I don’t like flashing blue lights road blocking in front of me in the pitch black! It is well disorienting! It is nice to not be pulled over just because you’re out and about at 1 in the morning though. 20 years ago I would of been tugged on principal!…
Times are so different…
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I know, if the weather is adverse I feel obliged to test myself against it
️I cleaned out the bowl of my carb last night before I went out, specifically the pilot jet because it’s not been starting or running great at low revs. It’s like a different animal again! Great starting, smooth revs all through the bottom to ‘top’ mid range. I’m surprised how much of the rev range is actually affected by the pilot jetting!
When I removed the pilot and blew it through you still couldn’t see a definitively clear hole (it was opaque) I had to use a thin, kinda serated wire to clear it till it showed properly to the eye. I don’t know if it’s a hard deposit build up or a ‘gluoopy’ oil residue? But something seems to be regularily obscuring the jets bore. Maybe cause I’m running pre~mix? (Castro Racing) The filter on the fuel tap looks great, also I’ve got a good new filter in-line between the tank & carb. I don’t really understand its cause … -
This post is deleted!
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Hoop! Talking to myself!
Bike chewed up a piston ring last night. Just lost power and started clattering, killed it like a heat seize with the clutch. Took the exhaust off tonight and peeked into the exhaust port. One ring down and a lot of shiny new scratches on my (previously pristine) 3MB cylinder head
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I had to nurse it 30 miles to get home to safety. So I’m guessing if any of it dropped down a transfer port I’ve lost the crank and cases as well. Oh well, shit happens…Can’t help thinking that there are loads more worthy candidates out there than me tho’
you do serious mileage on your bike. I haven't ridden any of my motorbikes since July. Fired up the DT yesterday, took a few kicks but akk seemed well.