So Close!...
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The welding is nearly as good as the best I’ve seen. 90%+ some of it looks like it was machine welded, and the way the sections flow into each other is sweet. RH has obviously had some practice
Polishing it won’t detract from the welds but it will remove the bands of colour. It would make it a uniform silver…Quick stupid question that nobody will reply to, but has anyone found a supplier for the metal loop retainer rings that hold the front calliper rubber seal in its place in the groove? I can’t find anything that is thin enough or I wouldn’t ask…
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Just found loads of fleabay listings that includes the ring with the rubber. Can’t believe that I never saw them before
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Just found loads of fleabay listings that includes the ring with the rubber. Can’t believe that I never saw them before
Had to replace the seal on the disc side fork with the old ones I took out! Pyramid parts don’t seem to stand the test of time
Put the spare set of new top & bottom bushes in while I was at it. Gonna have to do the bushes in the other fork to match. The 27mm hex drive makes it so easy to dismantle the forks as long as the Allen bolt hasn’t seized to the aluminium fork bottom…I still have a newer set of forks to rebuild with new top& bottom bushes & original seals and progressive springs, but I’m waiting for spring and money to get the new fork bottoms and yokes painted. As well as sourcing the seals for the headstock bearings…
The RH exhaust is an absolute dream. It’s breathing like an athlete with a beautiful exhaust note. Could be a touch quieter for my taste, but I’m an old git now, not a boy racer
it’s just not worth the ‘pull factor’ for me… -
Had to replace the seal on the disc side fork with the old ones I took out! Pyramid parts don’t seem to stand the test of time
Put the spare set of new top & bottom bushes in while I was at it. Gonna have to do the bushes in the other fork to match. The 27mm hex drive makes it so easy to dismantle the forks as long as the Allen bolt hasn’t seized to the aluminium fork bottom…I still have a newer set of forks to rebuild with new top& bottom bushes & original seals and progressive springs, but I’m waiting for spring and money to get the new fork bottoms and yokes painted. As well as sourcing the seals for the headstock bearings…
The RH exhaust is an absolute dream. It’s breathing like an athlete with a beautiful exhaust note. Could be a touch quieter for my taste, but I’m an old git now, not a boy racer
it’s just not worth the ‘pull factor’ for me…Is there a kind of co~relationship between people who buy DEP exhaust’s and people who fall off? (especially to the right hand side?)
Everyone I seem to see for sale is scraped and dented! I’ve not seen any other second hand dtr exhaust brand that seems to be so similarly afflicted! 
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PS Callum!:
I know you don’t really ride your bikes to dirtiness, but any tips on cleaning road filth from off of stainless?
I really think I need help cleaning my shit up!….
You really don’t want to see the underside!
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Is there a kind of co~relationship between people who buy DEP exhaust’s and people who fall off? (especially to the right hand side?)
Everyone I seem to see for sale is scraped and dented! I’ve not seen any other second hand dtr exhaust brand that seems to be so similarly afflicted! ️~
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PS Callum!:I know you don’t really ride your bikes to dirtiness, but any tips on cleaning road filth from off of stainless?
I really think I need help cleaning my shit up!….
You really don’t want to see the underside! …@SpookDog Would love to hear how them progressive fork springs are not really heard much about peoples experience with them
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@SpookDog Would love to hear how them progressive fork springs are not really heard much about peoples experience with them
Hopefully, soon as spring breaks!
Having problems with condensation in the tank from the -0 cold at the moment. I ran it onto reserve on Wednesday night and ended up having to clean the plug and drain the carb bowl about 5-6 times just to get 15 miles, not counting the cut out and roll then bump moments. It’s been down on power since. I need to clean the carb and get another exorcism I think 🥺
If it isn’t one thing it’s another. I kinda wish I was rich enough to buy a running bike -
Hopefully, soon as spring breaks!
Having problems with condensation in the tank from the -0 cold at the moment. I ran it onto reserve on Wednesday night and ended up having to clean the plug and drain the carb bowl about 5-6 times just to get 15 miles, not counting the cut out and roll then bump moments. It’s been down on power since. I need to clean the carb and get another exorcism I think 🥺
If it isn’t one thing it’s another. I kinda wish I was rich enough to buy a running bike -
Whom I kidding? Bringing them back to life is so satisfying, it’s just keeping them running that’s a bitch!
@SpookDog It is odd, it would be interesting if you took my bike.
In the last 13 years of ownership it has never let me down and always got me home!
Sure I've had head gasket go on me and one time the ignition was playing up, but no matter how slow it was running it always got me home in all weathers and was used daily.
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@SpookDog It is odd, it would be interesting if you took my bike.
In the last 13 years of ownership it has never let me down and always got me home!
Sure I've had head gasket go on me and one time the ignition was playing up, but no matter how slow it was running it always got me home in all weathers and was used daily.
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The other night was the only time it has physically conked out. It still got me where I was going, albeit exhaustingly!…
I bet I could find a problem with your bike
I’d start with why you have to run it without the thermostat and why it was running at near 100•c (which embarrassingly I thought was normal 🤫 at the time)…Things have settled down for me since I solved the head gasket blowing issue with the pilot jet. The thing is that I’ve done over 20,000 miles while it was missing and popping enough to blow the head gasket, I’m wondering what kind of effect it’s had on the con rod or/and crank?! Maybe why my bike doesn’t like revving up?…
My bike was a basket case when I got it, and one problem hid a multitude of others that I couldn’t see till the previous was fixed…
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I bet I could find a problem with your bike
I’d start with why you have to run it without the thermostat and why it was running at near 100•c (which embarrassingly I thought was normal 🤫 at the time)…Things have settled down for me since I solved the head gasket blowing issue with the pilot jet. The thing is that I’ve done over 20,000 miles while it was missing and popping enough to blow the head gasket, I’m wondering what kind of effect it’s had on the con rod or/and crank?! Maybe why my bike doesn’t like revving up?…
My bike was a basket case when I got it, and one problem hid a multitude of others that I couldn’t see till the previous was fixed…
@SpookDog Well it's not stock is it. I'm running a ported Athena 170 kit, with aftermarket radiators and waterless coolant (notorious for raising the temperature). It would benefit from a lower temperature thermostat then it would be grand, but as it is it just takes a while to warm up.
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@SpookDog Well it's not stock is it. I'm running a ported Athena 170 kit, with aftermarket radiators and waterless coolant (notorious for raising the temperature). It would benefit from a lower temperature thermostat then it would be grand, but as it is it just takes a while to warm up.
Worst temp I had was when I was running lean, was using jets for my year bike, not the year carb. As soon as I upped the mixture it was fine…
Two strokes are still mysterious to me …I don’t think a lower thermostat wouldn’t solve anything (a working one would if the previous was bust). If the radiator (or 2 in your case?) isn’t dissipating the amount of heat generated in the cylinder, then the coolant temp will keep rising until it reaches the equilibrium that the rad can dispel.
Bigger, tuned engines don’t produce higher temps, just more BTU’s~heat…
Does that make sense?… -
Worst temp I had was when I was running lean, was using jets for my year bike, not the year carb. As soon as I upped the mixture it was fine…
Two strokes are still mysterious to me …I don’t think a lower thermostat wouldn’t solve anything (a working one would if the previous was bust). If the radiator (or 2 in your case?) isn’t dissipating the amount of heat generated in the cylinder, then the coolant temp will keep rising until it reaches the equilibrium that the rad can dispel.
Bigger, tuned engines don’t produce higher temps, just more BTU’s~heat…
Does that make sense?…@SpookDog Right, so if the engines producing more heat and the cooling isn't adjusted then it'll run hotter. I am running significantly more power than stock probably an extra 50% over the stock power. Plus the bike is a lot heavier than stock with the ally wheels and USDs.
A lower thermostat would definitely help, it's quite common on tuned cars to run lower temp stats to enable the cooling system to function correctly.
Since removing the stat the bike equalises perfectly at 60 degrees, just takes a while to get there.
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@SpookDog Right, so if the engines producing more heat and the cooling isn't adjusted then it'll run hotter. I am running significantly more power than stock probably an extra 50% over the stock power. Plus the bike is a lot heavier than stock with the ally wheels and USDs.
A lower thermostat would definitely help, it's quite common on tuned cars to run lower temp stats to enable the cooling system to function correctly.
Since removing the stat the bike equalises perfectly at 60 degrees, just takes a while to get there.
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@ the right temp? It’s 65 iirc, (I learnt from you
) it’s no good if it opens @ 100•cCleaned out the carb and found bubbles of water still present in the bowl and around the main jet. Power is back to ‘normal’ though it still doesn’t want to rev freely up to and beyond 7K. I’ve got a few plans forming in mind, including swapping out another CDI I gotten (wish the original fitted had markings!) unplugging and ‘pinning’ the power valve to see if there’s a difference…
I’m really not sure about the crank after 20,000 miles of riding while missing at low throttle. The bearings are ok but that doesn’t mean that the Conrod is true…
I do have another good crank and casings, ect that I’ve been planning on building a ‘new’ bottom end lump. I just need to be able to focus on it without other problems stacking up 🫠
Remember to check the power valve servo closer, it appears to be opening at 7000 . But could be higher…
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@ the right temp? It’s 65 iirc, (I learnt from you
) it’s no good if it opens @ 100•c@SpookDog From the digital readout it was reaching about 85 degrees then cooling down to 80 then spiking. So it would fluctuate around 80-85. But one day I made it literally a mile after leaving home and it went to 110. So I turned back and removed it and its been perfect ever since. Just takes a while to warm up.
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@SpookDog From the digital readout it was reaching about 85 degrees then cooling down to 80 then spiking. So it would fluctuate around 80-85. But one day I made it literally a mile after leaving home and it went to 110. So I turned back and removed it and its been perfect ever since. Just takes a while to warm up.
80-85 is the absolute wide open temp isn’t it it should open at 60-5. Definitely sounds like the stat failed to me, especially if removing it solved the problem. I’ve got a couple known good spares if you want to try one before paying out for something you think might not work…
Is your temp probe on the head or radiator or?
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80-85 is the absolute wide open temp isn’t it it should open at 60-5. Definitely sounds like the stat failed to me, especially if removing it solved the problem. I’ve got a couple known good spares if you want to try one before paying out for something you think might not work…
Is your temp probe on the head or radiator or?
