So Close!...
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Didn’t get a real chance to check it out tonight, cause by the time I went far enough to get it properly up to temp it started absolutely pissing it down. I’m still running/bedding in the rings from the re~hone I did when I replaced the head gasket a few weeks ago as well…
What I can say is it revved up to just over 7000rpm with non of the usual reluctance around 6000rpm. Clean & crisp with non of the ‘chokey’ stutter I got with the Big1 front pipe. I’m looking forward to a dry sunny day so I can see where my revs top out…
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@SpookDog
Must admit that pipe looks bitchin, I love the bare metal with welds on display. Quality stuff. Your bike will be running better because it will be able to breath better (exhale) with the new pipe. Must admit I’m itching to get out on the TDR but the council vandals have been out and covered the roads in salt so I’m praying for rain to wash it all away and sunny days. -
Cheers bud, it’s definitely breathing better than the Big1 I had on it when I got it. I was going to polish out the welds so it just shines like chrome but it’s grown on me. Place I used to work did a lot of tig welding on stainless and aluminium. The heat marks polishes out quite easily…
Salt bothers me as well, just doesn’t stop me
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The welding is nearly as good as the best I’ve seen. 90%+ some of it looks like it was machine welded, and the way the sections flow into each other is sweet. RH has obviously had some practice
Polishing it won’t detract from the welds but it will remove the bands of colour. It would make it a uniform silver…Quick stupid question that nobody will reply to, but has anyone found a supplier for the metal loop retainer rings that hold the front calliper rubber seal in its place in the groove? I can’t find anything that is thin enough or I wouldn’t ask…
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Had to replace the seal on the disc side fork with the old ones I took out! Pyramid parts don’t seem to stand the test of time
Put the spare set of new top & bottom bushes in while I was at it. Gonna have to do the bushes in the other fork to match. The 27mm hex drive makes it so easy to dismantle the forks as long as the Allen bolt hasn’t seized to the aluminium fork bottom…I still have a newer set of forks to rebuild with new top& bottom bushes & original seals and progressive springs, but I’m waiting for spring and money to get the new fork bottoms and yokes painted. As well as sourcing the seals for the headstock bearings…
The RH exhaust is an absolute dream. It’s breathing like an athlete with a beautiful exhaust note. Could be a touch quieter for my taste, but I’m an old git now, not a boy racer
it’s just not worth the ‘pull factor’ for me… -
Is there a kind of co~relationship between people who buy DEP exhaust’s and people who fall off? (especially to the right hand side?)
Everyone I seem to see for sale is scraped and dented! I’ve not seen any other second hand dtr exhaust brand that seems to be so similarly afflicted! 
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PS Callum!:
I know you don’t really ride your bikes to dirtiness, but any tips on cleaning road filth from off of stainless?
I really think I need help cleaning my shit up!….
You really don’t want to see the underside!
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Hopefully, soon as spring breaks!
Having problems with condensation in the tank from the -0 cold at the moment. I ran it onto reserve on Wednesday night and ended up having to clean the plug and drain the carb bowl about 5-6 times just to get 15 miles, not counting the cut out and roll then bump moments. It’s been down on power since. I need to clean the carb and get another exorcism I think 🥺
If it isn’t one thing it’s another. I kinda wish I was rich enough to buy a running bike -
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@SpookDog It is odd, it would be interesting if you took my bike.
In the last 13 years of ownership it has never let me down and always got me home!
Sure I've had head gasket go on me and one time the ignition was playing up, but no matter how slow it was running it always got me home in all weathers and was used daily.
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I bet I could find a problem with your bike
I’d start with why you have to run it without the thermostat and why it was running at near 100•c (which embarrassingly I thought was normal 🤫 at the time)…Things have settled down for me since I solved the head gasket blowing issue with the pilot jet. The thing is that I’ve done over 20,000 miles while it was missing and popping enough to blow the head gasket, I’m wondering what kind of effect it’s had on the con rod or/and crank?! Maybe why my bike doesn’t like revving up?…
My bike was a basket case when I got it, and one problem hid a multitude of others that I couldn’t see till the previous was fixed…
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@SpookDog Well it's not stock is it. I'm running a ported Athena 170 kit, with aftermarket radiators and waterless coolant (notorious for raising the temperature). It would benefit from a lower temperature thermostat then it would be grand, but as it is it just takes a while to warm up.
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Worst temp I had was when I was running lean, was using jets for my year bike, not the year carb. As soon as I upped the mixture it was fine…
Two strokes are still mysterious to me …I don’t think a lower thermostat wouldn’t solve anything (a working one would if the previous was bust). If the radiator (or 2 in your case?) isn’t dissipating the amount of heat generated in the cylinder, then the coolant temp will keep rising until it reaches the equilibrium that the rad can dispel.
Bigger, tuned engines don’t produce higher temps, just more BTU’s~heat…
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@SpookDog Right, so if the engines producing more heat and the cooling isn't adjusted then it'll run hotter. I am running significantly more power than stock probably an extra 50% over the stock power. Plus the bike is a lot heavier than stock with the ally wheels and USDs.
A lower thermostat would definitely help, it's quite common on tuned cars to run lower temp stats to enable the cooling system to function correctly.
Since removing the stat the bike equalises perfectly at 60 degrees, just takes a while to get there.
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