So Close!...
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Hopefully, soon as spring breaks!
Having problems with condensation in the tank from the -0 cold at the moment. I ran it onto reserve on Wednesday night and ended up having to clean the plug and drain the carb bowl about 5-6 times just to get 15 miles, not counting the cut out and roll then bump moments. It’s been down on power since. I need to clean the carb and get another exorcism I think 🥺
If it isn’t one thing it’s another. I kinda wish I was rich enough to buy a running bike
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@SpookDog It is odd, it would be interesting if you took my bike.
In the last 13 years of ownership it has never let me down and always got me home!
Sure I've had head gasket go on me and one time the ignition was playing up, but no matter how slow it was running it always got me home in all weathers and was used daily.
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I bet I could find a problem with your bike
I’d start with why you have to run it without the thermostat
and why it was running at near 100•c (which embarrassingly I thought was normal 🤫 at the time)…Things have settled down for me since I solved the head gasket blowing issue with the pilot jet. The thing is that I’ve done over 20,000 miles while it was missing and popping enough to blow the head gasket, I’m wondering what kind of effect it’s had on the con rod or/and crank?! Maybe why my bike doesn’t like revving up?…
My bike was a basket case when I got it, and one problem hid a multitude of others that I couldn’t see till the previous was fixed…
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@SpookDog Well it's not stock is it. I'm running a ported Athena 170 kit, with aftermarket radiators and waterless coolant (notorious for raising the temperature). It would benefit from a lower temperature thermostat then it would be grand, but as it is it just takes a while to warm up.
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Worst temp I had was when I was running lean, was using jets for my year bike, not the year carb. As soon as I upped the mixture it was fine…
Two strokes are still mysterious to me …I don’t think a lower thermostat wouldn’t solve anything (a working one would if the previous was bust). If the radiator (or 2 in your case?) isn’t dissipating the amount of heat generated in the cylinder, then the coolant temp will keep rising until it reaches the equilibrium that the rad can dispel.
Bigger, tuned engines don’t produce higher temps, just more BTU’s~heat…
Does that make sense?… -
@SpookDog Right, so if the engines producing more heat and the cooling isn't adjusted then it'll run hotter. I am running significantly more power than stock probably an extra 50% over the stock power. Plus the bike is a lot heavier than stock with the ally wheels and USDs.
A lower thermostat would definitely help, it's quite common on tuned cars to run lower temp stats to enable the cooling system to function correctly.
Since removing the stat the bike equalises perfectly at 60 degrees, just takes a while to get there.
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Cleaned out the carb and found bubbles of water still present in the bowl and around the main jet. Power is back to ‘normal’ though it still doesn’t want to rev freely up to and beyond 7K. I’ve got a few plans forming in mind, including swapping out another CDI I gotten (wish the original fitted had markings!) unplugging and ‘pinning’ the power valve to see if there’s a difference…
I’m really not sure about the crank after 20,000 miles of riding while missing at low throttle. The bearings are ok but that doesn’t mean that the Conrod is true…
I do have another good crank and casings, ect that I’ve been planning on building a ‘new’ bottom end lump. I just need to be able to focus on it without other problems stacking up 🫠
Remember to check the power valve servo closer, it appears to be opening at 7000 . But could be higher…
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@SpookDog From the digital readout it was reaching about 85 degrees then cooling down to 80 then spiking. So it would fluctuate around 80-85. But one day I made it literally a mile after leaving home and it went to 110. So I turned back and removed it and its been perfect ever since. Just takes a while to warm up.
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80-85 is the absolute wide open temp isn’t it it should open at 60-5. Definitely sounds like the stat failed to me, especially if removing it solved the problem. I’ve got a couple known good spares if you want to try one before paying out for something you think might not work…
Is your temp probe on the head or radiator or?
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Remember to remove flywheel cover and check rotation for any play/noise at TDC or during rotation. A random tapping/knocking noise has appeared during tick over since removing the oil pump/replacing clutch side main seal. Or since water in carb cut out episode…
Also fit rubber mounts and P clip mount to exhaust…
PS remember to turn off the lights when adjusting the carb, the drag caused by them is significant…
PPS didn’t remove the oil pump!!
Piston was a tight good fit when assembled. Am getting Tappety sound at TDC when turning flywheel by hand. Will check more through the exhaust outlet when pipes off for rubber mounting… -
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Cleaned out the carb and found bubbles of water still present in the bowl and around the main jet. Power is back to ‘normal’ though it still doesn’t want to rev freely up to and beyond 7K. I’ve got a few plans forming in mind, including swapping out another CDI I gotten (wish the original fitted had markings!) unplugging and ‘pinning’ the power valve to see if there’s a difference…
I’m really not sure about the crank after 20,000 miles of riding while missing at low throttle. The bearings are ok but that doesn’t mean that the Conrod is true…
I do have another good crank and casings, ect that I’ve been planning on building a ‘new’ bottom end lump. I just need to be able to focus on it without other problems stacking up 🫠
Remember to check the power valve servo closer, it appears to be opening at 7000 . But could be higher…
I saw you post and recently had a similar problem developed in my bike,remove your spark plug and test by touching somewhere on the engine,healthy spark is orange in color,mine was lighlty blue to white.Changed the ignition coil with a used working genuine one.Run's fine now.
My sympton's was hesitation to rev after 6-7k but was clearing and had full power after around 9k.It'looked like a carb problem and did 2 rebuilds with different jets.Sometimes had misfires but not at the same rpm's. -
Cheers bud, I will check it out…
Does anyone know how to find the CDI markings numbers to year? I’m sure I saw a page once that listed all the years of CDI and when they changed by their marked numbers. Also which ones were the least restricted? Any help is appreciated
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