So Close!...
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I don’t know if it shows in the pic’s very well but my locator ring is proper bowed out to a saucer!…
It’s proper curvy. The worm gear has seized solid in the brass fitting and caused the ring drive to stop turning, forcing it against the wheels rotation, which in turn bent up the tabs…
I’m lucky it just pushed the tabs up and didn’t tear them up, or off completely!…
I’m guessing that the 3 prong locator ring should be fla
…PS does the locator ring need to be a tight fit onto the ring gear, or does the curclip hold it in place?…
If you’re not sure I guess I’ll just tweak the clip to grip the ring gear. It was well tight when I dismantled it but I assumed it was cause it was so deformed… -
Suss this one out…
I actually cut the whole bit off after I drilled it out and it still wouldn’t come out…
You can see the groove where the pin fitted! It still will not let grip of the brass insert!!
although the insert turns freely!! WTF?!!Have a link to a cheap copy replacement, anyone?
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
I don’t know if it shows in the pic’s very well but my locator ring is proper bowed out to a saucer!…
It’s proper curvy. The worm gear has seized solid in the brass fitting and caused the ring drive to stop turning, forcing it against the wheels rotation, which in turn bent up the tabs…
I’m lucky it just pushed the tabs up and didn’t tear them up, or off completely!…
I’m guessing that the 3 prong locator ring should be fla …PS does the locator ring need to be a tight fit onto the ring gear, or does the curclip hold it in place?…
If you’re not sure I guess I’ll just tweak the clip to grip the ring gear. It was well tight when I dismantled it but I assumed it was cause it was so deformed…@SpookDog IIRC the ring with the 3 tabs is supposed to be flat yes. It also has 2 flats on its ID which correspond with flats on the ring gear and should locate over these so the gear drives it. And there should also be two shims, one underneath the ring gear and one between the 3 tab ring and circlip.
Shame you had to do that to get the pin out but if you're really determined to save the unit I guess you could get someone to build it up with ally weld and re-machine it, whereupon you could decide exactly how you want to retain the brass insert using a nut and bolt or similar, might be a cool project which moves the DTR community forward as those speedo drives are difficult to get hold of secondhand.
There's a guy on the web somewhere called Badfoot Customs who does exactly this kind of work, he's saved smashed MX bike crankcases by welding in extra replacement sections and stuff like that.
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@HOTSHOT-III I follow badfoot customs on Facebook. They do some amazing work.
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I’m gutted as well. It still wouldn’t come out after drilling the pin out with a 1.5, then 2mm drill, so I was using a 3mm bit and it snapped the casing apart. The brass bit still wouldn’t come out so I started trimming back the sharp bits to get at whatever was stopping the brass coming out. Things got out of hand as I got more irate. The brass fitting turns in the casing but will not pull out. I’ve put it in a vice and pulled on the thing with no outward movement. It has to come out cause the worm drive is bent and needs straightening as well as clean & lube…
Some of the XT drives look similar, they use the same speedo I think, as well as a 21in wheel. Still not cheap, but cheaper than the ‘dtr tax’
If anyone has an original part (preferably) or even a known working copy, please let me know
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@SpookDog Sorry this has happened to you bud, we've all been there. Take a look at Yamaha France Parts Lookup, you enter your VIN number and they can usually tell your exact model of bike right down to the colour. In fact as a test, I once keyed in the VIN number of my 1990 UK 3MB I owned in '91, and it showed the crappy UK 12bhp powervalve end cap instead of the pulley and cables. Sometimes more accurate than Fowlers for part numbers:
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-maintenance/parts-catalogue/
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Cheers bud. I think I’ve found a genuine one for £50 but wanted to check out the part number first
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Parlez vous froglish? If I give you my VIN would you do it for me?
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Parlez vous froglish? If I give you my VIN would you do it for me?
OK what's your VIN number?
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@markus-w @SpookDog It should be a round slide carb bike with that VIN number. I had a look on Yamaha France but it didn't recognise the VIN so just looked it up as an '88 DT125R; the original part number is 1W2-25190-00 and CMSNL/Fowlers both say it's superseded to 3XP-25190-00. The 3XP looks like the plastic version on CMSNL, in stock at Fowlers, £74.40:
https://www.cmsnl.com/products/gear-unit-assy_3xp2519000/
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4055682/dt125r-3bn1-1988-999-c/front-wheel
Maybe try Motorcycle Part Finder UK, they contact over 200 breakers:
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In the daylight it looks like
3DB - 001369
With a big gap between the 3DB and the 00It says there are 3 options: black, white & solid enduro blue. I’d love to know what original colour my bike was registered as, can anyone help me find out?…
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@SpookDog That's for an SR125 which has I think an 17" front wheel, and the spindle diameter is likely to be different as well so it definitely wouldn't fit a DTR.
https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_sr125 97.htm
Have you tried Motorcycle PartFinderUK from my previous post?
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Same diameter 15mm. I was more interested in the 3 prong internals. I could use my gear wheel if not my worm drive. There are some used ones going for £11 I’m going to see if I can find measurements for one. The 3 prefix letters are different but the middle numbers (25190) are the same, it has an 01 on the end instead of a 00. I’m hoping that an upgrade to where the cable fits in, an oring maybe
I live in hope!…Gonna try part finder later today but don’t think it’ll be cheap…
Edit Got one coming for £8 it’s worth laying eyes on for that price…
There are mid 80’s XT ones that look the same, 3 prong and seal ect. Some of the XT’s used the same speedo/rev counter as the dtr I think…
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Would you believe it that my top end has developed a rattle that is only getting worse!
It’s my fault for using second hand top ends before, because I couldn’t cure the head gasket blowing problem.
Now I’ve solved it I want to get my original 3MB barrel rebored with piston, ect. I’ve got another bottom end I want to put new everything in as well though, while I’m at it.I might put the Tzr on the road first though. So I’ve got something to run while I get the frame and casings, ect powder coated…
Juggling decisions on a shoestring budget, you kinda got to get it right before you do it
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Can you believe that this worm gear will still not just pull out?!
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Even after beating the brass cap/insert up & out the worm gear shaft won’t come out
I had to cut down even further because the hard steel of the worm gear had ‘burred’ over a lip on the ally that held it in!…
And finally! Freedom! And it’s not bent!…
My~Fucking~Life!…
SAPFM!….@HOTSHOT-III
Is there supposed to be a washer on the top @ bottom of the worm drive?
Mine only has one on the top? I’m guessing that the spin makes the drive ride up against the top washer, so it doesn’t need one on the bottom?…
