So Close!...
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Cheers bud! Got the pin today, along with the main bearings I’ve been waiting on forever
…WTF happened to the motor that pic of a piston came out of?! That’s one of the most catastrophic seizures I’ve ever seen! Was it 2T oil or heat? I’m guessing it’s oil related!
Tho it got pretty damn hot by the looks…————————————————-
I found a pair of casings I’d forgot about that are less knocked up than the early number ones I was planning on using. It means I can go ahead earlier with my build. Just got to get oil seals and a blaster little end bearing, along with a 170 head gasket from PJME when I get some monies on Wednesday!
Maybe some new tyres for the salty season.Any recommendations for ‘adventure’ tyres? I don’t want road tires but I haven’t been off road in so long I can’t remember. Even then it was dry so the knobblies are kinda like me, redundant
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They have any kinda decent lifespan? I’ve been burnt before with tyres that only lasted 12weeks! Less than 7K miles!…
I seem to remember Bridgestone tyre’s having multi density rubber , harder wearing on the centre, mid on the mid and soft on the edges. Helped them maintain their profile throughout the lifespan of the tyre, as well as grip through cornering. Can’t remember which marque they were tho’…
wrote on 13 Nov 2023, 22:18 last edited by HOTSHOT III@SpookDog I think they were Bridgestone Battlaxes which were fitted to the original Honda FireBlade when it came out in '92 (best looking of all the FireBlades IMO; the two round headlights made it look like the GSX-R of the day pumped up on steroids), IIRC they called it SACT (Straight and Cornering Technology). I don't know of any DTR-sized tyre which has dual compound.
TrailRiders are no touring tyre but they last pretty well and are a vast improvement over most so-called "dual purpose" tyres which tend to be a bit crap on both dirt and tarmac as it's too much of a compromise. Tyres are a huge part of your setup equation so it's worth accepting a little extra wear if it transforms the bike. I was able to get a deal from an online tyre company by ordering a front and two rears as the rear wears a lot quicker on bikes. This is sensible anyway as bikes are sensitive to mismatched tyres (particularly road-biased tyres) so if you can't get the correct rear when it wears out, you've effectively wasted around half the life of the front tyre.
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wrote on 14 Nov 2023, 13:18 last edited by
Cheers bud, that’s worth thinking about. I don’t mind paying up for quality, just not bling!…
Twin round lights have got to be the best looking fairing setup of all time. No amount of ‘fox’ or ‘hawk’ eyes is gonna change that. I’ve always preferred it on cars as well. Mk3 cortina’s or any old capri
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@SpookDog Avon TrailRiders in the recommended sizes work very well on the DTR, they're kind of 90% road, 10% dirt; very grippy on tarmac when you run standard pressures 18psi front/22psi rear but just blocky enough to be acceptable off road:
wrote on 14 Nov 2023, 20:23 last edited by -
wrote on 14 Nov 2023, 21:56 last edited by HOTSHOT III
@SpookDog Avon recommend 80/90 21" front and 110/80 18" rear on the DTR; pretty close to the OEM sizes of 2.75" front and 4.10" rear. If you take a look at the Avon DT125R webpage the recommended rim sizes for these are 1.85" front and 2.50" rear; bigger than the stock DTR rims (1.60" front and 1.85" rear). I had a chat with Avon over the phone about this before getting my 1st set and they told me Yamaha confuse tyre manufacturers with oddball rim sizes quite a lot. I had TrailRiders in these sizes on 2 of my 3 DTRs at one time and it never caused an issue.
Definitely the Ford Capri
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wrote on 16 Nov 2023, 15:57 last edited by
Has anyone ever had vapour blasting done before? I got quoted £2 a minute. Works out at £50-80 to get the whole engine, barrel, head, clutch casing, ect done.
Good or bad price?… -
wrote on 16 Nov 2023, 18:00 last edited by Calum
Sounds pricey. I've not paid that much.
I use MB Vapor Blasting and he's VERY competitive.
I've yet to be disappointed.
I cannot recommend Matt more than enough.
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Sounds pricey. I've not paid that much.
I use MB Vapor Blasting and he's VERY competitive.
I've yet to be disappointed.
I cannot recommend Matt more than enough.
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Has anyone ever had vapour blasting done before? I got quoted £2 a minute. Works out at £50-80 to get the whole engine, barrel, head, clutch casing, ect done.
Good or bad price?…wrote on 16 Nov 2023, 19:21 last edited by OllieDTRYes but my brother does all my cnc work, skimming heads, making custom parts etc also done me vapour blading on all my forks and casing etc here is some photos
Is so worth it and will smarten up your build! This is for my French import I’m slowly doing
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Can you remember what you paid for, say, the 2 engine casings and barrel & head? Just to get an idea…
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Can you remember what you paid for, say, the 2 engine casings and barrel & head? Just to get an idea…
wrote on 18 Nov 2023, 14:42 last edited byFML! 🫤
I wish it would stop being so very wet all the time! I work under a corrugated car port roof on the (cardboard covered) floor at my siss’s house. It really puts a ding into everything I want to do. I need to spray my frame so it doesn’t get ‘salt seasoned’ again this winter, it’s had a rough ‘couple of’…
Can’t do it, so why bother trying to make the motor look good? I’d settle for being able to do a deep clean & degrease on it at the moment…Sorry, I’m just pissed off @ tm
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FML! 🫤
I wish it would stop being so very wet all the time! I work under a corrugated car port roof on the (cardboard covered) floor at my siss’s house. It really puts a ding into everything I want to do. I need to spray my frame so it doesn’t get ‘salt seasoned’ again this winter, it’s had a rough ‘couple of’…
Can’t do it, so why bother trying to make the motor look good? I’d settle for being able to do a deep clean & degrease on it at the moment…Sorry, I’m just pissed off @ tm
wrote on 22 Nov 2023, 14:49 last edited by SpookDogHad a weird one a day ago, my bike was suddenly really noisy. It’s been making a ‘Blang, blang, blang!’ noise on startup for a while. I assumed it was just ‘4 stroking’ from the choke and damp cold conditions, fuel condensation in the chamber/barrel kinda stuff. I also thought it might be oil in the tailpipe clogging the wadding, so I unpopped the rivets and took it apart. The wadding was totally soaked with water! It was like a sanitary pad had been chucked in a swimming pool! 🫤 if you just touched it water pissed out of the fibres!
It’s weird cause the bikes always parked under cover. You’d think it would dry out when ridden as well!…Put new wadding in, which was awkward because only the ‘end cap’ of the silencer comes off. the hole-pierced tube is welded into the tailpipe. I ended up having to put the wadding in in bits and bobs to get it even. It sounds really nice and deep/quiet now, as well as actually running a lot better
…Still trying to get the casings cleaned up enough to put all the new bearings in. Bloody miserable weather! It makes for really slow going progress 🫤 …
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I can’t remember when I fitted the bigger front calliper to the rear, but it’s still going good with better ‘bite’ and hasn’t needed adjustment. I really thought I’d need the bigger master to make the most of it, but it doesn’t. Then I suppose much bigger bikes with twin front discs don’t use massive master cylinders? Or multi piston rear callipers even? I must of fuxed up the first time I installed it
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Had a weird one a day ago, my bike was suddenly really noisy. It’s been making a ‘Blang, blang, blang!’ noise on startup for a while. I assumed it was just ‘4 stroking’ from the choke and damp cold conditions, fuel condensation in the chamber/barrel kinda stuff. I also thought it might be oil in the tailpipe clogging the wadding, so I unpopped the rivets and took it apart. The wadding was totally soaked with water! It was like a sanitary pad had been chucked in a swimming pool! 🫤 if you just touched it water pissed out of the fibres!
It’s weird cause the bikes always parked under cover. You’d think it would dry out when ridden as well!…Put new wadding in, which was awkward because only the ‘end cap’ of the silencer comes off. the hole-pierced tube is welded into the tailpipe. I ended up having to put the wadding in in bits and bobs to get it even. It sounds really nice and deep/quiet now, as well as actually running a lot better
…Still trying to get the casings cleaned up enough to put all the new bearings in. Bloody miserable weather! It makes for really slow going progress 🫤 …
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I can’t remember when I fitted the bigger front calliper to the rear, but it’s still going good with better ‘bite’ and hasn’t needed adjustment. I really thought I’d need the bigger master to make the most of it, but it doesn’t. Then I suppose much bigger bikes with twin front discs don’t use massive master cylinders? Or multi piston rear callipers even? I must of fuxed up the first time I installed it
…wrote on 23 Nov 2023, 14:32 last edited byAnyone have a half decent, usable set of clutch side casing screw-bolts they can let go? Preferably Jap Ind Std OEM one’s?…
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Anyone have a half decent, usable set of clutch side casing screw-bolts they can let go? Preferably Jap Ind Std OEM one’s?…
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@SpookDog gawd the OEM stuff is awful! Made of cheese I swear. I think all mine either rounded off or snapped when I took it apart.
wrote on 23 Nov 2023, 17:18 last edited by SpookDogI found out that they are OK as long as you use a JIS (🦴
!!) screwdriver bit. Anything else chews out the + in them.
The OEM bolt & nuts are the best I’ve ever seen! I love the way you can re~tweak the lock nuts by adjusting the stainless tangs!…
———————————I forgot to text you! I’m sorry, I’ve spent the entire afternoon putting new bearings in my casings, which for me is a fuxin stressful job! Heat, chant&pray, tap! & repeat!
The balancer shaft bearings are the worst!
Job done though. Tomorrow is gearbox & crank in and ‘lump’ together, I hope!I’ve texted you my siss’s post code, and when you’re coming over to Poole way drop me a text and I’ll arrange shiznezz with you…
Or if you’re here tonight give me a shout…
Or I’ll post it if you want… -
@SpookDog gawd the OEM stuff is awful! Made of cheese I swear. I think all mine either rounded off or snapped when I took it apart.
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wrote on 23 Nov 2023, 20:10 last edited by
@SpookDog Ordered a set of titanium studs this morning for my ETX this morning
Listen, when it comes for OEM bonus points I'll admit, you can't beat that factory look. The issue I have, is none of my stuff is mint and the real art is doing a @scrimsmustang or @oldman build. The attention to detail for the OEM goodness is beyond anything I'll ever accomplish.
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@SpookDog Ordered a set of titanium studs this morning for my ETX this morning
Listen, when it comes for OEM bonus points I'll admit, you can't beat that factory look. The issue I have, is none of my stuff is mint and the real art is doing a @scrimsmustang or @oldman build. The attention to detail for the OEM goodness is beyond anything I'll ever accomplish.
wrote on 24 Nov 2023, 15:11 last edited by SpookDogI’m not an original’o’phobe myself, personally. I just think the OEM ones are better than aftermarket replacement ones. Not including titanium or stainless upgrades, which I would use if I weren’t so ‘broke a$$’
I do get people wanting originality on classic things, but I’ve always got the most out of doing my own thing. Cutting, welding/splicing and usually Matt black (cause of the broke ass thing
) with the lettering on the tyres picked out in white (child of the 70’s!)…PS! Do the clutch springs need upgrading with an Athena kit? Or is standard fine?…
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I’m not an original’o’phobe myself, personally. I just think the OEM ones are better than aftermarket replacement ones. Not including titanium or stainless upgrades, which I would use if I weren’t so ‘broke a$$’
I do get people wanting originality on classic things, but I’ve always got the most out of doing my own thing. Cutting, welding/splicing and usually Matt black (cause of the broke ass thing
) with the lettering on the tyres picked out in white (child of the 70’s!)…PS! Do the clutch springs need upgrading with an Athena kit? Or is standard fine?…
wrote on 24 Nov 2023, 17:39 last edited byGot the bottom end pinned together, despite the wind which always blows crap about when I’m doing engine internals! I put up a beach umbrella and hid behind it.
It went together well, this is my third bottom end rebuild and I like to think I’ve improved a bit each time The new crank spins real easy, you could blow on it and spool it up!… -
wrote on 24 Nov 2023, 18:26 last edited by
I'm not going to lie, you use your bike a damn sight more than I use any of mine! I mostly cycle/run everywhere.
No you don't need clutch springs for the Athena 170 kit, so long as your clutch is healthy you should be fine. That said, I run the stiffer spring setup, along with the EBC Dirt clutch plates.
Been out on my DT today and it is running CRISP in this weather. Really hurtles along!
Yeah it's satisfying riding the bike with a motor you've put together.
