So Close!...
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No, standard. Optical illusion
…Does the rear mudguard have any grommet/bush in it? My rack is like 5mm loose gapped on each side. It was so bad it’s cracked and been welded, badly
I’m wondering if it’s the proper one? It all lines up on the bolt holes apart from being wider at the back and the tailpipe mount point…———————
That StumpHumper looks gorgeous in green. Was there a more basic version of that frame back in the mid-late 90’s?
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2024? Some of us ole’gits didn’t think we were going get past 1984!!
️ …Damn! I still have all four indicators flashing!
I don’t think my loom liked being removed and refitted!…Edit: There is absolutely no accounting for stupidity! There are 2 six pin connectors, 1 black, 1 white. Guess who had them crossed over?…
In my defence, it was dark, wet & windy! Also there was a ‘broken inside’ taillight earth that was throwing confusion into the mix. Every time it disconnected the brake light dimmed and the indicator light on the ‘dash’ came on! Why it chose then to manifest is beyond me! 
…Happy daze now it’s all working!…
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@SpookDog That expansion tank tube describes a tortuous route around the top of the airbox yes. Whatever you do don't be tempted to route it underneath the airbox; I've known people to do this and the chain will cut the tube in half when the rear suspension is fully compressed (in fact the upper chain roller stops it from doing this to the airbox).
@MadGyver It would protect the frame if you could design something to fit behind the airbox there. After I wash my bikes I like to throw old towels over the wheels to protect the tyres and brakes, then absolutely saturate places like that area, the front of
and underneath the engine etc. with WD40 to protect the frame, wiring etc., then wipe off the excess. Get loads in the radiator core as those fins are wafer thin and corrode away to powder if you leave salt on them. Doing this also helps the degreaser to cut through the road grime and dirt next time.It can also be beneficial to attach some approximately 10mm thick foam to the lateral ridge on the seat base where it butts up against the top rear of the airbox, this gives the air intake area a little more protection against mud and water ingress. Yamaha did this when the DTR was new but in a bit of an afterthought kind of way; new foam and some 3M VHB double sided tape and nothing will get past it even greenlaning through a swamp.
I actually had to start again and re-route the expansion pipe! I finally have it running properly! Along the top then zig-zagging back down to the expansion bottle. Should of listened the first time
…Also totally forgot about the metal coolant tube that’s been head butting salty road water for the last few years! QTLC is needed yet again
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I actually had to start again and re-route the expansion pipe! I finally have it running properly! Along the top then zig-zagging back down to the expansion bottle. Should of listened the first time
…Also totally forgot about the metal coolant tube that’s been head butting salty road water for the last few years! QTLC is needed yet again
@SpookDog All's well that ends well I guess, routing that expansion pipe is one of those jobs no-one wants to do ever.
The metal coolant hose does catch a lot of road salt etc. yes, £78/discontinued from Fowlers but CMSNL can order them in for about £27 plus shipping; not quite sure how they're managing this but they do a lot of stuff like that you can't get any more, I think I read on their website they sometimes get things like this made. If yours is really far gone and threatening to leak coolant maybe get on eBay and find one from a French bike if you don't want to wait for Holland post, some people sell them still attached to the waterpump cover as well.
It's not only the hose which is a potential headache, also the two screws which retain it are similarly prone to seizing. I had to use an impact driver to get the one out of the waterpump cover to replace the O-ring (this is 90p from Fowlers and worth buying genuine as Japanese manufacturers are notorious for being awkward with O-ring sizes). -
@SpookDog All's well that ends well I guess, routing that expansion pipe is one of those jobs no-one wants to do ever.
The metal coolant hose does catch a lot of road salt etc. yes, £78/discontinued from Fowlers but CMSNL can order them in for about £27 plus shipping; not quite sure how they're managing this but they do a lot of stuff like that you can't get any more, I think I read on their website they sometimes get things like this made. If yours is really far gone and threatening to leak coolant maybe get on eBay and find one from a French bike if you don't want to wait for Holland post, some people sell them still attached to the waterpump cover as well.
It's not only the hose which is a potential headache, also the two screws which retain it are similarly prone to seizing. I had to use an impact driver to get the one out of the waterpump cover to replace the O-ring (this is 90p from Fowlers and worth buying genuine as Japanese manufacturers are notorious for being awkward with O-ring sizes).I still feel like an idiot for putting it back where it was when I got the bike, but ‘better’! It’s an original tube and all the kinks and bends line up now! I should be a bit quicker on the uptake by now…
Do you know of a paint stripper that doesn’t damage the Yamaha plastic? I don’t know if what’s on there is acrylic or cellulose, or what…
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I still feel like an idiot for putting it back where it was when I got the bike, but ‘better’! It’s an original tube and all the kinks and bends line up now! I should be a bit quicker on the uptake by now…
Do you know of a paint stripper that doesn’t damage the Yamaha plastic? I don’t know if what’s on there is acrylic or cellulose, or what…
@SpookDog Not sure about Yamaha plastic but I once watched someone use Nitromors on some painted Suzuki TS125X plastics (the one that looks like a mid-80s RM) and it seemed to get the paint off without harming the plastic. B&Q sell one called Paint Panther which smells the same, I used some this year on something else. Maybe just try a thumbnail-sized blob in an area that isn't very visible first?
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@SpookDog Not sure about Yamaha plastic but I once watched someone use Nitromors on some painted Suzuki TS125X plastics (the one that looks like a mid-80s RM) and it seemed to get the paint off without harming the plastic. B&Q sell one called Paint Panther which smells the same, I used some this year on something else. Maybe just try a thumbnail-sized blob in an area that isn't very visible first?
Cheers bud, I’ve got some bad condition old ones to try out with…
Everything is taking an age! It looks like I’ve made zero progress in 3 days…
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Cheers bud, I’ve got some bad condition old ones to try out with…
Everything is taking an age! It looks like I’ve made zero progress in 3 days…
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I dunno, it's looking pretty sweet to be fair to you.
Won't stay white for very long mind you
Mother Nature isn’t so bad, it’s the local council and their grit lorries!
…Fair play, it was black when first registered, just with a red frame…
Getting the rack fitted nicely took a lot more than it should!…
PS I don’t have any smiley face emoji’s showing up, is that an iPhone compatibility thing?…
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Looking good spook! Have to let us know what the 170 kit is like and jetting wise. I’ve got to Abit of time to order mine be good to see how it goes with the TM32mm carb, are you running stock oil pump? I have the newer oil pump setup so can adjust it more be good to see if anyone has a guide on how much it needs adjusting by
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Mother Nature isn’t so bad, it’s the local council and their grit lorries!
…Fair play, it was black when first registered, just with a red frame…
Getting the rack fitted nicely took a lot more than it should!…
PS I don’t have any smiley face emoji’s showing up, is that an iPhone compatibility thing?…
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Pissing coolant from the bottom of the barrel, where the casings meet. They’re not a matched pair and one is a hair higher at the front on the clutch side. Perfect at the back…
Going to lap the front with wet and dry and a 10cm (10cm X 10cm) square of plate glass…
It was the one time I never used sealant on the base gasket, plus I used my Vertex gasket on the Tzr! I ended up using one of those 0.5mm fleabay ones. A decent thickness gasket and copper spray sealant and I’d probably never had a problem… -
Pissing coolant from the bottom of the barrel, where the casings meet. They’re not a matched pair and one is a hair higher at the front on the clutch side. Perfect at the back…
Going to lap the front with wet and dry and a 10cm (10cm X 10cm) square of plate glass…
It was the one time I never used sealant on the base gasket, plus I used my Vertex gasket on the Tzr! I ended up using one of those 0.5mm fleabay ones. A decent thickness gasket and copper spray sealant and I’d probably never had a problem… -
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Hey! At least I get to fit the blaster bearing this time!
…Don't forget to file the inside of the piston as I've mentioned on another post.
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Ha! I was just going to ask you if it was the piston or the LE bearing!…
File each side of the piston,the bearing must drop and have a little play.
I believe 0,5mm or 0,75mm of each side will do,measure your bearing because they are not all the same.
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Ha! I was just going to ask you if it was the piston or the LE bearing!…
File each side of the piston,the bearing must drop and have a little play.
I believe 0,5mm or 0,75mm of each side will do,measure your bearing because they are not all the same.
@MadGyver
Why thank you Sir!…I did get round to doing some things today, once I stopped feeling sorry for myself:
Lapped it smooth and ‘all over’ even as I could with what I have to hand…
I always hate putting on a top end with the engine in-frame, but what can you do?
March or die! Can’t give up either way…I had to remove the side cover and rotor so I could remove the stator, all so I could replace and tighten the coolant pipe-mount/engine-bolt! I did manage to torque up the stator nut this time because I could lock the crank via the little/small end…
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Ha! I was just going to ask you if it was the piston or the LE bearing!…
File each side of the piston,the bearing must drop and have a little play.
I believe 0,5mm or 0,75mm of each side will do,measure your bearing because they are not all the same.
