So Close!...
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@SpookDog Not sure about Yamaha plastic but I once watched someone use Nitromors on some painted Suzuki TS125X plastics (the one that looks like a mid-80s RM) and it seemed to get the paint off without harming the plastic. B&Q sell one called Paint Panther which smells the same, I used some this year on something else. Maybe just try a thumbnail-sized blob in an area that isn't very visible first?
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Cheers bud, I’ve got some bad condition old ones to try out with…
Everything is taking an age! It looks like I’ve made zero progress in 3 days…
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Mother Nature isn’t so bad, it’s the local council and their grit lorries!
…Fair play, it was black when first registered, just with a red frame…
Getting the rack fitted nicely took a lot more than it should!…
PS I don’t have any smiley face emoji’s showing up, is that an iPhone compatibility thing?…
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Looking good spook! Have to let us know what the 170 kit is like and jetting wise. I’ve got to Abit of time to order mine be good to see how it goes with the TM32mm carb, are you running stock oil pump? I have the newer oil pump setup so can adjust it more be good to see if anyone has a guide on how much it needs adjusting by
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Pissing coolant from the bottom of the barrel, where the casings meet. They’re not a matched pair and one is a hair higher at the front on the clutch side. Perfect at the back…
Going to lap the front with wet and dry and a 10cm (10cm X 10cm) square of plate glass…
It was the one time I never used sealant on the base gasket, plus I used my Vertex gasket on the Tzr! I ended up using one of those 0.5mm fleabay ones. A decent thickness gasket and copper spray sealant and I’d probably never had a problem… -
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Ha! I was just going to ask you if it was the piston or the LE bearing!…
File each side of the piston,the bearing must drop and have a little play.
I believe 0,5mm or 0,75mm of each side will do,measure your bearing because they are not all the same.
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@MadGyver
Why thank you Sir!…I did get round to doing some things today, once I stopped feeling sorry for myself:
Lapped it smooth and ‘all over’ even as I could with what I have to hand…
I always hate putting on a top end with the engine in-frame, but what can you do?
March or die! Can’t give up either way…I had to remove the side cover and rotor so I could remove the stator, all so I could replace and tighten the coolant pipe-mount/engine-bolt! I did manage to torque up the stator nut this time because I could lock the crank via the little/small end…
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Yeah, I did wonder…
I’m going to leave it overnight for the leak-down test, before I start throwing it back together again. It’s dry so far…
Hopefully tomorrow will be the day! This 2 weeks has been the longest I’ve been without a ride since I got it on the road, I think!…
I don’t get any emoji ~smiley faces anymore, is this just me on iPhone you recon?…
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
I forgot to ask: Does the Athena kit give the kickstart a more ‘compression’ feel than the standard? I used to be able to turn it over by hand on the kickstart…
Yes it does. The first time I tried to start the engine it kicked back like a 4T and did little damage to my ankle. I had tha face "what the fux it's my XT600 all over again".
After the run in km's never happened.Your spark plug wire must go from the other side,if you follow Yamaha schematics.
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The high tension lead? Interesting. I guess all my loom and wiring is bass ackwards!
…I had a 400 single that you had to find the sweet spot on, or it’d try and break your ankle! It had a decompression valve/lever that I could never get on with. You got to love 4/ singles. It’s like riding a 2 wheel tractor
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No leaks as of yet: 10.30pm
