So Close!...
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Thing that blew my mind was that it opened at around 4K! Why would the resistance (I’m guessing) change on the ‘to earth’ kill curcuit?! Also the chances of getting a 3 wire servo with a black/white stripe? As well as the black/white wire from the loom being changed?! That’s some fuxin cosmic improbability going on. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot is going on with My Life?!…
I’ll take some pics when the light is good enough to show the colours properly…
Couldn’t make this shit up!…
Could it possibly be something as banal as a rotten earth to the coil?
It seems it may be that the opposite side to the orange wires earth point (on the coil!) is more important that it’s connected 100% to the loom, rather than the frame…
There is a join in the earth lead from previous abusers. One of those hard plastic crimp jobs. If I’d thought it was essential I’d of looked and addressed it before now! The wire was dry and crumbly between fingers…
Will know tomorrow when I’m alcohol free, but the motor is spooling up really crisp and fast, and the spark seems a lot stronger. I’ve been wrong before though… -
Could it possibly be something as banal as a rotten earth to the coil?
It seems it may be that the opposite side to the orange wires earth point (on the coil!) is more important that it’s connected 100% to the loom, rather than the frame…
There is a join in the earth lead from previous abusers. One of those hard plastic crimp jobs. If I’d thought it was essential I’d of looked and addressed it before now! The wire was dry and crumbly between fingers…
Will know tomorrow when I’m alcohol free, but the motor is spooling up really crisp and fast, and the spark seems a lot stronger. I’ve been wrong before though… -
Still not there, my spark is healthier looking, but still red-orange. I believe a healthy spark should be blue-white?…
PS earth is NOT that important, it still runs with it disconnected
I tried fitting the 3nc CDI, it only fires once then nothing. It has 3 extra wires on it, blue and sky blue (2pin block connector) and blue/yellow-stripe (maybe white) I’m wondering if they’re to do with the side stand kill curcuit. I think I need to manipulate them to make it spark constantly…
Will the bike start with the side stand down and in neutral? Or does the stand have to be up regardless?…
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Still not there, my spark is healthier looking, but still red-orange. I believe a healthy spark should be blue-white?…
PS earth is NOT that important, it still runs with it disconnected
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Still not there, my spark is healthier looking, but still red-orange. I believe a healthy spark should be blue-white?…
PS earth is NOT that important, it still runs with it disconnected
I think you are slowly slipping into my Gordian knot electrical problem.
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Still not there, my spark is healthier looking, but still red-orange. I believe a healthy spark should be blue-white?…
PS earth is NOT that important, it still runs with it disconnected
I think you are slowly slipping into my Gordian knot electrical problem.
Yeah, I don’t give up easily though. 35 year old looms with black tarnished copper cores can be challenging! This has only started since I removed, stored and replaced the loom. It’s easy to find an intermittent broken inner if it’s just an indicator or tail light wire that you can wobble around. Wires in the core of the loom are another matter
Have you done anything on your bike lately? I know that the weather is still shitty here most of the time…
You’ll have to update your thread with the current situation when you can. We’ll get them running again like they should… -
I feel quite blessed really compared to your situation @SpookDog , I got my DT off a older gentleman at 5500 miles and have had it since. It's been nicked in that time but luckily that was just indicators that I binned off anyway. Your problems sound like what I am going to have with my ETX. That thing is pure trash
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I feel quite blessed really compared to your situation @SpookDog , I got my DT off a older gentleman at 5500 miles and have had it since. It's been nicked in that time but luckily that was just indicators that I binned off anyway. Your problems sound like what I am going to have with my ETX. That thing is pure trash
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Yeah, I don’t give up easily though. 35 year old looms with black tarnished copper cores can be challenging! This has only started since I removed, stored and replaced the loom. It’s easy to find an intermittent broken inner if it’s just an indicator or tail light wire that you can wobble around. Wires in the core of the loom are another matter
Have you done anything on your bike lately? I know that the weather is still shitty here most of the time…
You’ll have to update your thread with the current situation when you can. We’ll get them running again like they should…@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Yeah, I don’t give up easily though. 35 year old looms with black tarnished copper cores can be challenging! This has only started since I removed, stored and replaced the loom. It’s easy to find an intermittent broken inner if it’s just an indicator or tail light wire that you can wobble around. Wires in the core of the loom are another matter
Have you done anything on your bike lately? I know that the weather is still shitty here most of the time…
You’ll have to update your thread with the current situation when you can. We’ll get them running again like they should…I understand,opened twice the 30 year loom completely,once when rebuilding and now when searching for the electrical problems.Second time was 3 times the searching test&time of the first.I believe now is almost new.
I haven't done much because the bad weather most of the time,no light to work after sunset,2 small kids so almost no spare time and my health problem.
I hope so,need so much to ride again it's like a dream for me now. -
@SpookDog All sounds good!
If the bike still runs I doubt you've done any damage to the CDI by crossing those wires, usually CDI units either work or they don't. Interesting it did still work though; the black/yellow wire tells the little on-board computer inside the 3-wire servo the engine speed (like the crank sensor on a car) and the black/white wire stops the plug sparking by earthing the CDI when you flick the kill switch or turn off the ignition, so I guess if you hooked either of those wires from the CDI up to some test equipment like an oscilloscope, you'd probably get some quite similar results.
Keep us posted for any improvements!
I’ve found the 2 wires that the starter solenoid joins to the loom by, also a wire that appears to be the clutch switch.
What stator did these 3mb RE’s use bud, any idea?…
—————————-Edit: I managed to get the 3nc CDI working thanks to HotShots 3mb wiring diagram. Turns out that the wire that goes to the side stand, from the CDI, needed earthing…
Will test it out later when I can…——————————
PS if this doesn’t cure it I’ll have to try swapping out the carb for the tzr one or my old one. I’m wondering if the choke plunger rubber is worn and not sealing properly.
Also the ignition coil on the stator and the wiring between it and the CDI unit…
I can’t think of anything else at the moment…
Still getting light missing at low revs and an orange/red spark…I replaced the connector & wiring from pickup to CDI. Repaired a connection & wiring in the orange coil wire as well.
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I’ve found the 2 wires that the starter solenoid joins to the loom by, also a wire that appears to be the clutch switch.
What stator did these 3mb RE’s use bud, any idea?…
—————————-Edit: I managed to get the 3nc CDI working thanks to HotShots 3mb wiring diagram. Turns out that the wire that goes to the side stand, from the CDI, needed earthing…
Will test it out later when I can…——————————
PS if this doesn’t cure it I’ll have to try swapping out the carb for the tzr one or my old one. I’m wondering if the choke plunger rubber is worn and not sealing properly.
Also the ignition coil on the stator and the wiring between it and the CDI unit…
I can’t think of anything else at the moment…
Still getting light missing at low revs and an orange/red spark…I replaced the connector & wiring from pickup to CDI. Repaired a connection & wiring in the orange coil wire as well.
@Me!…
It would appear that a hot wired £25 CDI unit bought from fleabay has cured the low rpm problems! 25 miles with no noticeable pops or hesitation! I’ll check again tomorrow after I’ve adjusted the new slack in my chain…
But for the time being I am optimistic!…
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@Me!…
It would appear that a hot wired £25 CDI unit bought from fleabay has cured the low rpm problems! 25 miles with no noticeable pops or hesitation! I’ll check again tomorrow after I’ve adjusted the new slack in my chain…
But for the time being I am optimistic!…
️Last post of the day!…
Sparks?! I believe that they should be fat blue~white, yes? If mine are orange ~red then I’m wondering if the capacitors in the CDI unit are getting enough electrickery to generate constant good blue ~white sparks? Even if this could contribute to the demise of a CDI unit? (Serious Deja Vu here somehow)
I’m thinking of changing out the ignition ~source coil and the wiring from the stator to the CDI unit anyways...
I would seriously love some feedback about spark colour and strength… -
Bikes still running good and sweet. The source coil was well in spec with the Ohms (not the purple ones)
One good thing is I’ve learned how to isolate the ignition system from the rest of the loom. Just pulling the black/white wire (kill switch & key barrel) on the CDI isolates most of it. Depending on the CDI year there’s more you can do to isolate the side stand curcuit. It doesn’t use a ‘to earth’ curcuit to kill the engine. It uses a curcuit that kills the ignition if not earthed (IE a partial break inside the insulation will kill it) You can bypass the loom by earthing the single blue CDI wire to the HT earth point.
Both these give you a chance to identify a possible partial/intermittent break in the loom…
I’ll read through your thread again. You have a 3nc CDI if I remember? -
@SpookDog Yes you remember correct,1x3NC and 2x4DL.
I did some work on the DT,will update the thread within the week.Let me know what is happening with the spark! If it’s sparking and not running, or if there is a spark but the engine only fires once. Or there’s no spark at all. We’ll get your bike running bud, I’d stake my ‘reputation’ on it! ROTFFLMAO!
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My bikes still running and firing smoothly, I’m almost ready to call it fixed!…
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Let me know what is happening with the spark! If it’s sparking and not running, or if there is a spark but the engine only fires once. Or there’s no spark at all. We’ll get your bike running bud, I’d stake my ‘reputation’ on it! ROTFFLMAO!
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My bikes still running and firing smoothly, I’m almost ready to call it fixed!…
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Engine is running sweet as fux! It’s officially mended by replacing the CDI unit with a 3NC unit, that I had to earth the single light blue wire to bypass the side stand circuit.
It’s strange that the old 3BN CDI was still working but missing, they usually work or don’t in my previous experience. I will have to check the wiring for internal breaks…Now I can start on the 101 other things that need attention! Greasing the brake pads! Fitting the rear mud flap (can you get a front one that’s half decent?) Fitting the 2T oil pump. Rear linkage bushings. Wheel bearings. Chain tension. LED driving lights. Resonating exhaust expansion chamber. Recovering spare seat. Barrel base gasket. Front brake light switch wire inside break in wire. Bed forks in properly. Find proper clutch perch. Find new block and bullet connectors and proper gauge wire to build new loom. Original throttle cable. Electrolysis the rust out of tank and POR15 seal it. Machine/dremmel fuel petcock to take original metal ‘lever’.
And anything else that I can’t think of off the top of my head!
Till then, signing off
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Engine is running sweet as fux! It’s officially mended by replacing the CDI unit with a 3NC unit, that I had to earth the single light blue wire to bypass the side stand circuit.
It’s strange that the old 3BN CDI was still working but missing, they usually work or don’t in my previous experience. I will have to check the wiring for internal breaks…Now I can start on the 101 other things that need attention! Greasing the brake pads! Fitting the rear mud flap (can you get a front one that’s half decent?) Fitting the 2T oil pump. Rear linkage bushings. Wheel bearings. Chain tension. LED driving lights. Resonating exhaust expansion chamber. Recovering spare seat. Barrel base gasket. Front brake light switch wire inside break in wire. Bed forks in properly. Find proper clutch perch. Find new block and bullet connectors and proper gauge wire to build new loom. Original throttle cable. Electrolysis the rust out of tank and POR15 seal it. Machine/dremmel fuel petcock to take original metal ‘lever’.
And anything else that I can’t think of off the top of my head!
Till then, signing off …
Link (@ least one) on the chain locked up solid because of road salt. So freeing off the chain and adjusting is going to be my first job. What good is an X~ring chain if it doesn’t survive a couple months of winter?!…
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Link (@ least one) on the chain locked up solid because of road salt. So freeing off the chain and adjusting is going to be my first job. What good is an X~ring chain if it doesn’t survive a couple months of winter?!…
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The amount of times I've had a pushbike chain snap on me, and I've gone over the handlebars, because the fricken salt has corroded it
I've had it a few times where I've gotten to work and ended up with a puncture, to repair the tyre only to leave the car park to cycle home and fall flat on my arse
