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DT125R FORUM

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  2. Tuning
  3. Derestricting
  4. Missing reed switch

Missing reed switch

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Derestricting
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  • B Offline
    B Offline
    Blasterguy
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Hey all! My first post here. I have a 2002 DT 125 R with a full power front pipe, but she currently won’t go past 60. I’ve looked over the various forums and pages and I know there should be a reed switch, however rather than removing it from the speedo, some special case has cut it off and wrapped the wires up separately.

    Any ideas of the issues this may/ are causing? I’d expect more than 60mph to be honest. I do also need to check the powervalve, but want to know the implications of the missing switch. All I see everywhere is DO NOT REMOVE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES… but not what removing it actually does ha ha

    Cheers Will

    S 2 Replies Last reply
    0
    • B Blasterguy

      Hey all! My first post here. I have a 2002 DT 125 R with a full power front pipe, but she currently won’t go past 60. I’ve looked over the various forums and pages and I know there should be a reed switch, however rather than removing it from the speedo, some special case has cut it off and wrapped the wires up separately.

      Any ideas of the issues this may/ are causing? I’d expect more than 60mph to be honest. I do also need to check the powervalve, but want to know the implications of the missing switch. All I see everywhere is DO NOT REMOVE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES… but not what removing it actually does ha ha

      Cheers Will

      S Offline
      S Offline
      SpookDog
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      @Blasterguy

      I always wondered what simply disconnecting the speedo cable would do.

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • CalumC Online
        CalumC Online
        Calum
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        It's probably a NC circuit which would be why they say don't remove it.

        Just get yourself a Zeeltronic ignition system and be done with it.

        Always Originate, Never Pirate!

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • B Blasterguy

          Hey all! My first post here. I have a 2002 DT 125 R with a full power front pipe, but she currently won’t go past 60. I’ve looked over the various forums and pages and I know there should be a reed switch, however rather than removing it from the speedo, some special case has cut it off and wrapped the wires up separately.

          Any ideas of the issues this may/ are causing? I’d expect more than 60mph to be honest. I do also need to check the powervalve, but want to know the implications of the missing switch. All I see everywhere is DO NOT REMOVE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES… but not what removing it actually does ha ha

          Cheers Will

          S Offline
          S Offline
          SpookDog
          wrote on last edited by SpookDog
          #4

          @Blasterguy

          I think you’re going to have to get another read switch and put it back to standard, then take it from there.

          The last person with similar problems was:
          @Mr-Shadi
          Had problems with his switch. Do a search for his post on the subject…

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          • Hark_PtooieH Offline
            Hark_PtooieH Offline
            Hark_Ptooie
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            Just pull it out of the bottom of the speedometer housing and wrap it generously in electric tape. Worked on my 2003 DE03.

            As I understand, it is a simple magnetic thing detecting the speed needle passing over it. Removed from its position, it detects nothing. I assume that if you cut it, it detects continuously instead.

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            • B Offline
              B Offline
              Blasterguy
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              Thanks all- any ideas where I could get a new switch?

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              • Hark_PtooieH Offline
                Hark_PtooieH Offline
                Hark_Ptooie
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                I am not an electronics guy, but if I found myself without one I would begin by short-circuiting its cables.

                From the looks of it, it's a proximity sensor with two metal blades. In a magnetic field, one is either drawn to or from the other, closing or opening the circuit.

                If the ignition cuts in its absence, I would assume that it is supposed to be Normally Closed and that the lack of it leaves the circuit open - which is interpreted by the ignition as the speedometer needle is close to the sensor. Hence, short-circuiting it would keep it closed at all times.

                But then again - if it would continuously signal "needle at 80 km/h, cut ignition!" regardless of rpm then the engine would not run at all, would it?

                And that was the entirety of my knowledge and understanding of the issue.

                S 1 Reply Last reply
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                • Hark_PtooieH Hark_Ptooie

                  I am not an electronics guy, but if I found myself without one I would begin by short-circuiting its cables.

                  From the looks of it, it's a proximity sensor with two metal blades. In a magnetic field, one is either drawn to or from the other, closing or opening the circuit.

                  If the ignition cuts in its absence, I would assume that it is supposed to be Normally Closed and that the lack of it leaves the circuit open - which is interpreted by the ignition as the speedometer needle is close to the sensor. Hence, short-circuiting it would keep it closed at all times.

                  But then again - if it would continuously signal "needle at 80 km/h, cut ignition!" regardless of rpm then the engine would not run at all, would it?

                  And that was the entirety of my knowledge and understanding of the issue.

                  S Offline
                  S Offline
                  SpookDog
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  @Hark_Ptooie

                  It’s a bit of a headfux isn’t it? The read switch might not be a simple magnetic on/off by the looks of it. It might set to a default mode if it the CDI doesn’t detect a continuity in the curcuit?

                  @Blasterguy
                  It would be helpful to know if it only restricts the revs in top gear, or every gear? I would try joining the wires at least once to see if there’s a change at all…

                  It might be easier to get an earlier CDI than a read switch…

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