Hello Everyone! Planning to buy a DTR125
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Hello,
Oh okay that sounds good.
There isn't exactly common problems with these bikes, if it's well maintained then they really do go on forever.
At that sort of mileage, and if it truly has never been opened, I'd expect the little end bearing to have worn excessively and rings need replacing. This will be tellable through a rattly top end from the small bearing and piston slap.
But again it's all down to how it's been treated.
The clutch baskets wear out over time so you can expect noise coming from the clutch area.
Other things can be like the bushes on the powervalves can be known go wear out. Again this will be proceeded by rattling noise from the top end. If the bushes are left to wear out so much they can have quite dire consequences.
All of these are minor really and shouldn't take any time all to address.
Look forward to hearing more about your endeavours, they're brilliant little machines when maintained properly.
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Hello! Well I bought it! It pulls good, starts cold in just a few turns of a starter. Bike does not look 30 years old at all. Everything on the bike works, including the YPVS. Sounds coming from the engine sound normal to me, i will attach a cold start clip of the engine sound below. Previous owner had it for normal cruising on the street to the bar and so on.
I do wonder, there is different information, does the cylinder have a nikasil coating? If so, all the bike needs is a new piston thats it?
What is some general maintenance I should do before riding it? How can i refresh the YPVS so it keeps working, same with autolube?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/LkBWrjSWNoc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDzEm13lvdkThanks for the help!
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Congrats, looks nice! Cylinder has a iron sleeve, and can be rebored. Autolube might need adjusting with time, and replacing seals if it leaks. Try finding the repair manual online (Yamaha or Haynes), can be found on Facebook groups etc. Videos not available.
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Congrats, looks nice! Cylinder has a iron sleeve, and can be rebored. Autolube might need adjusting with time, and replacing seals if it leaks. Try finding the repair manual online (Yamaha or Haynes), can be found on Facebook groups etc. Videos not available.
@Rallyfinnen thanks!
What do you think about the sounds coming from the engine? Does it sound okay so it would last till the end of the season so I can rebore and change the piston in the winter? I want to drive it a bit, is my first proper bike, I’ve only ridden 50cc mopeds till now, time for a step up after 10 years od 50cc. Wish I would’ve bought this 10 years ago
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Like I said, videos did not work for me..
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Like I said, videos did not work for me..
@Rallyfinnen oh sorry, just noticed they were set to private. They should work now
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Oh wow, what a lovely lovely DTR you have there. Please please please keep that original and no silly mods. That is a little time capsule there.
Sounds good listening to it on my phone.
If it pulls well and starts easy then in all likelihood it's a good motor congratulations
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Oh wow, what a lovely lovely DTR you have there. Please please please keep that original and no silly mods. That is a little time capsule there.
Sounds good listening to it on my phone.
If it pulls well and starts easy then in all likelihood it's a good motor congratulations
@Calum Thank you! Ofcourse im keeping it original, I already removed Agip and Akrapovic stickers, in all about that OEM look. Cant really ride it yet, getting my license this week.
Thanks for the help on the sound, I really have no idea how a proper two stroke should sound, its totally different to the 50cc Tomos mopeds I’ve been riding with.
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@Calum Thank you! Ofcourse im keeping it original, I already removed Agip and Akrapovic stickers, in all about that OEM look. Cant really ride it yet, getting my license this week.
Thanks for the help on the sound, I really have no idea how a proper two stroke should sound, its totally different to the 50cc Tomos mopeds I’ve been riding with.
@Vuteng +1 for keeping this bike original, it looks great and the motor sounds good to me. I'd definitely enjoy riding it for the rest of the summer before taking on any serious work. In one of the vids it does sound like the rubber snorkel could be missing from the airbox intake, if you're somewhere in the EU the easiest way to get one is probably to just get a complete airbox from a French or German breaker which have plenty of DTRs. This model also shares the CDI unit and YPVS servo (both marked 3MB) with the KTM LC2 125 which sold well in Europe so if you want a spare CDI unit/servo that might be the best way to find these.
Looks like you have an OEM clutch cable, this and (especially) the throttle cable are best kept original as the throttle cable splitter has a mechanism that balances the carb and Autolube at all throttle openings. These are still available new and worth every penny.
This model I think had a dark blue seat when new (same colour as the frame/fork gaiters), probably available from bikerpartshop in Portugal:
https://www.bikerpartshop.com/en/166-dtr-50-125-200
Definitely retain the Autolube, and get a Haynes or Yamaha manual which explains how to bleed and adjust the oil pump. It's also well worth reconditioning it with a kit from Yambits. They used to sell a clear oil line kit but I can't find it, car windscreen washer hose works just as well. Here's a list of other bits to order at the same time, air filter elements are as good as OEM but half the price (get 3 or 4 so you can keep cleaning and re-oiling them and store them ready to change in a plastic bag, this is the easiest way to look after your engine), cable oiler (essential):
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125re-air-filter-p-9241.html
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125re-airbox-snorkel-genuine-p-230082.html
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125re-oil-pump-repair-kit-1989-1995-p-218588.html
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125re-oil-pump-oil-line-elbow-p-65302.html
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125re-cable-lubricating-tool-p-46571.html
Also here are a couple of things I like to do to any DTR; a full suspension linkage strip including making sure the troublesome relay arm bolt never seizes again, and making your own YPVS cables from MTB gear cables:
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@HOTSHOT-III Thank you very much for the information! I was just in the garage taking stuff apart and I took a look at the airfilter. The snorkel and everything is there but the foam on the air filter bracket is all fallen apart so I cleaned everything and blew out the airbox. I think this foam around the bracket is needed so it seals correct? Is there a way to reaply it or should I find a replacement one? Pic below to explain what I mean
Also I noticed that the red oil light never turns on, from what I’ve read in the manuals it should glow red while idling in neutral, correct? The pump is working as the bike is smoking
Seat was pink from what I found on the web and I really love the look with the pink seat so i will try to find that
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@HOTSHOT-III Thank you very much for the information! I was just in the garage taking stuff apart and I took a look at the airfilter. The snorkel and everything is there but the foam on the air filter bracket is all fallen apart so I cleaned everything and blew out the airbox. I think this foam around the bracket is needed so it seals correct? Is there a way to reaply it or should I find a replacement one? Pic below to explain what I mean
Also I noticed that the red oil light never turns on, from what I’ve read in the manuals it should glow red while idling in neutral, correct? The pump is working as the bike is smoking
Seat was pink from what I found on the web and I really love the look with the pink seat so i will try to find that
@Vuteng No worries. You may be right about the pink seat, it's hard to keep track sometimes lol.
The oil light should illuminate with the neutral light, it might just be a bulb.
The air filter holder can be repaired with new foam. Get some 5mm air filter foam off eBay, clean the holder thoroughly and glue it on using Seal-All, a petrol and oil resistant glue. This is very important, if you run the bike without this the engine will suck dirt. It's also worth applying a dribble of foam filter oil right around it before sliding it back into the airbox with a fresh filter installed.
https://www.repairproducts.co.uk/product/seal-all-gas-oil-resistant-adhesive/
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@Vuteng No worries. You may be right about the pink seat, it's hard to keep track sometimes lol.
The oil light should illuminate with the neutral light, it might just be a bulb.
The air filter holder can be repaired with new foam. Get some 5mm air filter foam off eBay, clean the holder thoroughly and glue it on using Seal-All, a petrol and oil resistant glue. This is very important, if you run the bike without this the engine will suck dirt. It's also worth applying a dribble of foam filter oil right around it before sliding it back into the airbox with a fresh filter installed.
https://www.repairproducts.co.uk/product/seal-all-gas-oil-resistant-adhesive/
@HOTSHOT-III Today I redid the foam, used some air filter foam I found and epoxy glued it + new air filter all oiled up. I tested the kickstand switch and it works but the oil light is not working. Will dismantle the tacho tomorrow. I looked at it today, i just remove the two pins underneath and it comes apart?
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@HOTSHOT-III Today I redid the foam, used some air filter foam I found and epoxy glued it + new air filter all oiled up. I tested the kickstand switch and it works but the oil light is not working. Will dismantle the tacho tomorrow. I looked at it today, i just remove the two pins underneath and it comes apart?
@Vuteng Yes that's right, just remove the two "R" clips under the tacho. All the bulb holders are rubber and just pull out of the tacho.
Great to hear you repaired the air filter holder!
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@Vuteng Yes that's right, just remove the two "R" clips under the tacho. All the bulb holders are rubber and just pull out of the tacho.
Great to hear you repaired the air filter holder!
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@HOTSHOT-III Today i took the cluster apart, bulb is okay. So I followed the wires of the oil level sensor and it's unplugged. I suspect I have to take off the tank to reconnect it? I guess it's disconnected because it is not working.
@Vuteng The previous owner may have just forgotten to reconnect it for some reason, if that fixes it then great. Connector is underneath the fuel tank as you say.
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I have registered the bike yesterday, already covered 100km. Love it! But what I've noticed dtarted to bother me, the clutch is veeery hard, so I would like to lube up the cable. What is the procedure to remove the cable from the bike and how to adjust it correctly?
Also I noticed humming in 6th gear if I shift into 6th at 70kmh. If i go 80+ its okay. That is normal?
Another thing I noticed, the bike falls on its face at 8k rpm, is it a CDI restriction or something else?Thanks for the help!
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Clutch could be stiff for many reasons. I run uprated clutch springs on my DTR so it is stiffer.
The clutch cable comes off very simply, just slacken the adjuster nuts on the clutch arm on the engine, then remove the cable from the engine. Route it through the frame and disconnect from the clutch perch.
You can then run some lubricant through the cable. I suspect though it'll be the clutch springs.
If the bike is falling flat on its face at 8k, then I'd initially say Powervalve.
Easy way to tell. Take the exhaust off, switch the ignition on and off (you'll hear the servo do the cleaning cycle). Once the powervalve turns flush with the exhaust port, switch the ignition off. Disconnect the powervalve servo from the main loom and ride the bike.
The bike should lose all bottom end, so basically gutless below 6k, but should rev to the limiter.
If this is the case, you've identified it's the powervalve. If this is not the case, then you know the problem lies elsewhere.
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Clutch could be stiff for many reasons. I run uprated clutch springs on my DTR so it is stiffer.
The clutch cable comes off very simply, just slacken the adjuster nuts on the clutch arm on the engine, then remove the cable from the engine. Route it through the frame and disconnect from the clutch perch.
You can then run some lubricant through the cable. I suspect though it'll be the clutch springs.
If the bike is falling flat on its face at 8k, then I'd initially say Powervalve.
Easy way to tell. Take the exhaust off, switch the ignition on and off (you'll hear the servo do the cleaning cycle). Once the powervalve turns flush with the exhaust port, switch the ignition off. Disconnect the powervalve servo from the main loom and ride the bike.
The bike should lose all bottom end, so basically gutless below 6k, but should rev to the limiter.
If this is the case, you've identified it's the powervalve. If this is not the case, then you know the problem lies elsewhere.
@Calum Thank you for the info, just ordered adjustable clutch and brake levers as they are very far away and I dont have small hands. Regarding the 8k problem, I tried it more today and I wouldnt say it completely stops, but It feel smore like a soft limiter, it just stops revving. I've read it can be a CDI limiter, how can I know for sure?
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