DT125R FORUM

After a month of building it I got it started, and now goes first kick every time, just gotta get the headlight working now and then it's MoT time

Engines running lean run hot, whilst 2 strokes perform better on the edge of seizing is this what you're looking for, or would it be worth trying to richen up the motor a little and see if the temp drops as something doesn't seem right. I've tuned quite a few bike and car engines over the years and only minis and imps had issues that required doubling the size of the rad.

@NINJA said in It's all Calums fault:

@Bluestoesonnose Welcome to the world of modifying. It's simple really, own a standard car or bike and enjoy it's stock performance.

OR

Modify it and eventually after much expense, get even greater pleasure out of your bespoke pride and joy!!! :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

Been doing it just like that for the last 24 years, got a a Austin A+ silly power until the gearbox kept snapping lay shafts

Hi all,
Just bought a 02 DT125R, with some electrical issues (it was wired by a chimp) so expect some silly questions in the near future.

Cheers

I've sold one of my old oil leaking British nails so I have space to keep the DT as my work hack and general run about. I've just bought a spare motor which I'll be reconditioning and the original head and barrel are off to Mick for some "work".

So I guess this will be a long term project, me being me I'll keep it looking standard but I'll tune the motor as time goes on. Thinking about this are there any parts I should keep a look out for?

Cheers

Simple stuff to start with, float height, air filter, pilot jet, new plug and perhaps cap

Hi Ryan,
Something that just entered the old grey matter, is the rad cap the correct one, in good condition and is it rated for UK ambient conditions?

If you're not able to get the system at the right pressure the water will overheat and you will have cooling issues. It could be worth splashing out on a new genuine rad cap.

Cheers

Hi Ryan,
Just checked through some old photos of my RD350LC I had in the 80s with a Stan Stephen's stage 4 barrel porting on it, head lapped to the barrel, microns, KnN pod filters and running on 4 star and it was on a std rad.
Thrashed everywhere the temp was in normal limits.

I'm guessing these overheating bikes a a tip top cooling system, with a rad in A1 condition, pump working as it should be, cooling galleries in the head and barrel free from corrosion and debris, etc, etc? As these bike are sold worldwide with the same cooling system and some areas of Europe have higher temps and higher altitudes than we see.

Sussed it, dead short in the generator on the yellow and red to ground

Cheers,
I've got a headlight issue and I need to know things are correct before I go off my gord trying to figure it out.

I'll keep it all standard for now as I only plan to use the bike to commute in the city during the winter.

Place that advertise in the classic bike mags, usually want £800 a loom though

Been using Colin at the following:

https://kojaycat.co.uk

Very helpful and seems to have all the DTR125R electrical connector blocks in stock.

Cheers

@NINJA
PM, thought it best, not via this forum but via FB messenger

@NINJA
I asked him for a fair few bits, not had a response as yet, I'd be happy with a complete CDI

Just asking as I've just built a tt600 motor for a maico 490 alpha 1 twin shock frame and modded the balance shaft with just a tube and it picks up very quickly. The guys in the US swear by this mod

Cheers, I'll get them off to Tony for some port work and squish band work

Just bought the fabled 3mb on eBay (it was cheap) for my bike a day after sending the current head and barrel to Mick for reworking...

Still I'll get to use it with the spare barrel and piston I have whilst the originals get tweeked!!