Kick stand kill switch
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Check and clean the neutral switch, also test earth at connector to battery or frame, had both before
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@oldman where's the neutral switch?
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@irongamer727 Under the gear lever. It's the black plastic tapped m8 or 10 bolt.
@calum yeah of course, should I just clean it off? Or follow the cable all the way up?
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I've cleaned everything up. The neutral lamp and all that works. Could it still be faulty?
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I found the earth was faulty on my red bike, see posts, corroded and oxidised cable. If you have a multimeter test resistance of the cable. Easier to remove loom and take loom tape off and examine earth in detail if testing shows fault
@oldman But did your neutral lamp work? I'm out if ideas. How could I test the earth?
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Isnt it worth someone measuring resistance of the kill switch on another dt ? And purchasing a cheap resistor of same Ohms and that should do it ?
P.s im new here.
@dt125matt The switch is just that, a switch. So banging a resistor won't make a difference if the switch has gone faulty.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@dt125matt The switch is just that, a switch. So banging a resistor won't make a difference if the switch has gone faulty.
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@calum ideas on what to try?
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@irongamer727 Loop it out if you're struggling mate.
@calum loop it out?
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@dt125matt The switch is just that, a switch. So banging a resistor won't make a difference if the switch has gone faulty.
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@calum anything that has current running through will have some form of resistance.
I deal with a lot of pro audio and everything from connectors to cable give resistance which is where my thoughts were laying.
It could be worth still measuring?
@dt125matt That's when detecting if the component has gone faulty. Measuring it's impedance.
But since a switch will have infinite internal resistance when open, then the results will be misleading.
Use impedance testing for say, Coil, Regulator
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You say that but its similar to a seat belt light with a pressure plate in the seat...
Essentially its just a open close switch.... open when no one is seated ....
Closed when seated...
Try to loop these and you will still have a seat belt light... because there is a resistance thats caused by the switch.... maybe only 0.6 ohms but its enough. Only way to get over that is looping via a resistor.Obviously i must be mistaken in way of the DT, as i am new to this side of the mechanical world but its just an idea !
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You say that but its similar to a seat belt light with a pressure plate in the seat...
Essentially its just a open close switch.... open when no one is seated ....
Closed when seated...
Try to loop these and you will still have a seat belt light... because there is a resistance thats caused by the switch.... maybe only 0.6 ohms but its enough. Only way to get over that is looping via a resistor.Obviously i must be mistaken in way of the DT, as i am new to this side of the mechanical world but its just an idea !
@dt125matt Yeah, I get your reasoning. But literally on the DT it's just a switch.
I know, cause I've had them fail before and just looped them out the circuit.
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Does anybody know how to check if the neutral relay is working without replacing it?
My bike cuts out as soon as the sidestand is down, even in neutral.
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Does anybody know how to check if the neutral relay is working without replacing it?
My bike cuts out as soon as the sidestand is down, even in neutral.
@Irongamer727 It's not a relay it's a switch.
So it should exist in one of two states, either open or closed.
An impedenace test on the item will show that no matter what state the item is in, the impedence never changes. That's when you know it's failed.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@Irongamer727 It's not a relay it's a switch.
So it should exist in one of two states, either open or closed.
An impedenace test on the item will show that no matter what state the item is in, the impedence never changes. That's when you know it's failed.
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It's connected to a diode (not the neutral lamp). Anyone know where this is?
