Bought DT125X, cannot get it to start? Spark, fuel OK
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@Lorant2 OK that's fine, so you're getting a spark and fuel, what's the air situation? Is the carb working OK?
@NINJA I cleaned it completely, even removed the atomiser tube to make sure the holes arent blocked. Gaskets are fine it is not leaking and fuel level is correct. Has 17.5 air jet and 220 main jet which might be small considering that it has gianelli but it shouldn't be a problem to start it, especially since it has run with this setup for the previous owner. Power valve servo works as it checks, and it is set to the mark on the cylinder.
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Did you clean the choke passageway in the bowl?
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Also, have a look at the reedvalves for broken or torn reeds.
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@NINJA I cleaned it completely, even removed the atomiser tube to make sure the holes arent blocked. Gaskets are fine it is not leaking and fuel level is correct. Has 17.5 air jet and 220 main jet which might be small considering that it has gianelli but it shouldn't be a problem to start it, especially since it has run with this setup for the previous owner. Power valve servo works as it checks, and it is set to the mark on the cylinder.
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I checked the choke and it is not blocked, I blew it eith compressor. I will have a look at the reeds the following day. But I took a picture inside the intake manifold and it looks ok, I will have a look if it has increased gap then I will replace it, they are moving freely as I touched it gently with my hands. I will check if I can see through it, but then again that would cause flooding I think and my plug is not oily at all after bump starting it for meters.
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I cleaned all the earths a week ago when I was diagnosing the starter motor. The earth is clean on the battery, on the engine, on the HT coil and on the regulator too. If I set kill switch to off, then I dont have any spark, neither if I let my side stand down.
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I checked the choke and it is not blocked, I blew it eith compressor. I will have a look at the reeds the following day. But I took a picture inside the intake manifold and it looks ok, I will have a look if it has increased gap then I will replace it, they are moving freely as I touched it gently with my hands. I will check if I can see through it, but then again that would cause flooding I think and my plug is not oily at all after bump starting it for meters.
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I mean that it works as it is intended. I turn the ignition key to on, power checks, and the kill switch is set to "run" I guess (I think it is pressed from the top to the bottom), anyway it is working as it is written on it. I believe this is not an electrical issue anymore, my plug is just not soaking in fuel and oil as it should despite the (I think) big compression. Tomorrow I will also have a friend to come over and we will check the exact PSI compression, what should be a correct value? Above 100, with full open throttle?
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I mean that it works as it is intended. I turn the ignition key to on, power checks, and the kill switch is set to "run" I guess (I think it is pressed from the top to the bottom), anyway it is working as it is written on it. I believe this is not an electrical issue anymore, my plug is just not soaking in fuel and oil as it should despite the (I think) big compression. Tomorrow I will also have a friend to come over and we will check the exact PSI compression, what should be a correct value? Above 100, with full open throttle?
@Lorant2 OK well it's another issue then. You can download the service manual for free from here;
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1203458/Yamaha-Dt125re-2005.html
And well worth the money is a Haynes manual;
Both have lots of tips and troubleshooting guides!!!
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Some update:
I have removed everything again, reeds are perfect, intake manifold too. Boost bottle was a little loose so I replaced the clamp on it and it is better now, and managed to start the bike with a catch LOL
I put it in 6. , turn off ignition and bumped it a lot with choke on, then put it in 3. and managed to start it and rev it a little till I dropped the gas and it is not starting again. Also it was smoking a lot but it was revving freely and dropped the rpms nicely too like theres no air leak. I will try to further investigate it.
Also I had the air screw open at only 1/4 turns now. It was on 1 turns before and completely closed when I first disassembled it.
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Some update:
I have removed everything again, reeds are perfect, intake manifold too. Boost bottle was a little loose so I replaced the clamp on it and it is better now, and managed to start the bike with a catch LOL
I put it in 6. , turn off ignition and bumped it a lot with choke on, then put it in 3. and managed to start it and rev it a little till I dropped the gas and it is not starting again. Also it was smoking a lot but it was revving freely and dropped the rpms nicely too like theres no air leak. I will try to further investigate it.
Also I had the air screw open at only 1/4 turns now. It was on 1 turns before and completely closed when I first disassembled it.
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As fot cleaning the choke, as I said theres a passageway in the floatbowl, thats often overlooked when cleaning carbs, as people focuse on the main body. Im not talking about the choke plunger and where it mounts in the carb.
Just another thing to exclude
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As fot cleaning the choke, as I said theres a passageway in the floatbowl, thats often overlooked when cleaning carbs, as people focuse on the main body. Im not talking about the choke plunger and where it mounts in the carb.
Just another thing to exclude
@Jens-Eskildsen I did blow that too. I started it today too and went for a 10km ride. Couldnt get it past 70 kmh. Removed exhaust, and saw that the power valve does not opens despite it is turning on ignition. It was rotated by 180 degrees, I think they installed it incorrectly in the service. Also, found another major problem, one huge piece of the upper piston ring is teared down
So i will have to disassemble the cylinder and replace the rings/get a new piston and rebore. I might be lucky that it tore off the front where only the exhaust port is and it got out. Also it was smoking quite hard while riding and it was working better with choke on. On low rpms it felt as it has air leak, on high rpm it didnt rev I think because of the power valve misfunction.Am I right that only Athena and original head gasket is recommended to use?
And how hard is it to replace the right side crank seal? Does it need removing the whole clutch or just the little cog on the crank? For the left side I have to make a flywheel puller plate as I see.
Also, I currently have 220 MJ and 17,5 Pilot jet, am I right that I should start out with the standard DT125R setup 25 pilot jet and 240 main?
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@Jens-Eskildsen I did blow that too. I started it today too and went for a 10km ride. Couldnt get it past 70 kmh. Removed exhaust, and saw that the power valve does not opens despite it is turning on ignition. It was rotated by 180 degrees, I think they installed it incorrectly in the service. Also, found another major problem, one huge piece of the upper piston ring is teared down
So i will have to disassemble the cylinder and replace the rings/get a new piston and rebore. I might be lucky that it tore off the front where only the exhaust port is and it got out. Also it was smoking quite hard while riding and it was working better with choke on. On low rpms it felt as it has air leak, on high rpm it didnt rev I think because of the power valve misfunction.Am I right that only Athena and original head gasket is recommended to use?
And how hard is it to replace the right side crank seal? Does it need removing the whole clutch or just the little cog on the crank? For the left side I have to make a flywheel puller plate as I see.
Also, I currently have 220 MJ and 17,5 Pilot jet, am I right that I should start out with the standard DT125R setup 25 pilot jet and 240 main?
@Lorant2 Sounds like the PV was hitting the piston which would explain a lot of what's going wrong with your bike. I'm glad to hear that it ran eventually, a top end rebuild would eliminate a lot of problems for-sure. And yes Athena or OEM gaskets are the best, personally I feel Athena are the best ones. Check in the manuals I mentioned before to see about replacing those seals. I would do those repairs and anything else which you find faulty whilst fitting those new parts and then see where you are with your bike? Before you go spending lots more money on other parts, which may be OK for now. :winking_face:
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A frriend had to replace the right crank seal, he did it from the outside.
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Okay, thank you, I will take off the cylinder and look into the top end. If it was really rebored 100km ago and the cylinder is not hurt, I will be trying to order a correct size piston ring for it and check if the power valve hits the piston and if the cylinder ports are "shaved down". I think I will be replacing the two seals too and then see what the bike does.
I was thinking about the same anyway, that the rotated power valve hit the ring, but then again it would have destroyed the bottom ring too. Also as I know, some older DTRs were restricted with a diamond shaped power valve which had to be rotated too.
imgur gallery
Before it was rotating but it was not changing, and on the other video it is rotated and aligned to the mark, I then further adjusted it to be in one with the cylinder. -
Okay, thank you, I will take off the cylinder and look into the top end. If it was really rebored 100km ago and the cylinder is not hurt, I will be trying to order a correct size piston ring for it and check if the power valve hits the piston and if the cylinder ports are "shaved down". I think I will be replacing the two seals too and then see what the bike does.
I was thinking about the same anyway, that the rotated power valve hit the ring, but then again it would have destroyed the bottom ring too. Also as I know, some older DTRs were restricted with a diamond shaped power valve which had to be rotated too.
imgur gallery
Before it was rotating but it was not changing, and on the other video it is rotated and aligned to the mark, I then further adjusted it to be in one with the cylinder. -
Some update:
It is not on first oversize, but on the third one, 57.50. The cylinder looks like it was bored recently, it is still "matte", and the piston inside is "RAM" branded which you can get for 20 euro here. The problem is not the bad quality piston however.
They should have checked if the power valve has enough clearence to the piston. They definitely forgot this. As you can see, it is stucking at a point so much that I can't believe how it did not snap the second ring too.
Now, as the piston clearence is fairly big, but the engine was having a great sound, I will order a new piston that is the same quality as this (I have positive experiences with this brand in other bikes) and I will grind off a little off the PV, then assemble it with that, it still hasn't run in so I guess that I am safe to replace the cylinder. If it will be tight, I will take it to a cylinder bore specialist. And if it will start to rattle or become weak, I will take it off again and get the last size 58.00 bore with a Meteor piston.
Also, my starter motor arrived too! I just tried it, it spins the engine quite fast :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:
I might have the piston here by friday, and then I can work on it on the weekend. Also ordered a 25 PJ and 250 MJ for the bike (because it has gianelli and cut off top airbox) which will be here. -
Some update:
It is not on first oversize, but on the third one, 57.50. The cylinder looks like it was bored recently, it is still "matte", and the piston inside is "RAM" branded which you can get for 20 euro here. The problem is not the bad quality piston however.
They should have checked if the power valve has enough clearence to the piston. They definitely forgot this. As you can see, it is stucking at a point so much that I can't believe how it did not snap the second ring too.
Now, as the piston clearence is fairly big, but the engine was having a great sound, I will order a new piston that is the same quality as this (I have positive experiences with this brand in other bikes) and I will grind off a little off the PV, then assemble it with that, it still hasn't run in so I guess that I am safe to replace the cylinder. If it will be tight, I will take it to a cylinder bore specialist. And if it will start to rattle or become weak, I will take it off again and get the last size 58.00 bore with a Meteor piston.
Also, my starter motor arrived too! I just tried it, it spins the engine quite fast :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:
I might have the piston here by friday, and then I can work on it on the weekend. Also ordered a 25 PJ and 250 MJ for the bike (because it has gianelli and cut off top airbox) which will be here.
