DERESTRICTING GUIDE
-
@irongamer727 it removes the restricted rev limiter on the bike
-
@declan is it green and black nomatter what year or model?
-
@connorjordan185 No! Have you even read @NINJA's link?
I quote
"DTRE AND DT125X 2004 ONWARD!"
AKA not previous.@Calum I have yes, all I need to know is how to electronicly de-restrict my 2002 plate dt125r it's doesn't quite say on there, my bike has about 6 wires coming from the back of the speedo
-
@Calum I have yes, all I need to know is how to electronicly de-restrict my 2002 plate dt125r it's doesn't quite say on there, my bike has about 6 wires coming from the back of the speedo
@connorjordan185 Watch the video dude, it shows it all!!!
-
@connorjordan185 Watch the video dude, it shows it all!!!
-
@Calum I have yes, all I need to know is how to electronicly de-restrict my 2002 plate dt125r it's doesn't quite say on there, my bike has about 6 wires coming from the back of the speedo
@connorjordan185 Then you don't have the green and black wire, since that's for 04 onwards. Yours will be the reed switch, exhaust and CDI.
-
@NINJA what video? I have tried a few on YouTube. I
@connorjordan185 The link is in my first post.
-
@connorjordan185 The link is in my first post.
@NINJA thanks mate, I have had the bike in bits once again, I've been through the wiring the lot and as far as I can tell it all looks good, the little white block thing is popped out and wrapped up but still tucked inside the speedo unit, so this is leading me to think the fault lies elsewhere
-
@connorjordan185 Then you don't have the green and black wire, since that's for 04 onwards. Yours will be the reed switch, exhaust and CDI.
-
@Calum is the reed switch the little white block inside the speedo clocks? If so that's wrapped up inside the speedo unit, my bike has a full dep pipe. But you mentioned cdi unit, do you think this could be my problem?
@connorjordan185 Yes that's it. :thumbs_up_medium-light_skin_tone:
-
@connorjordan185 Yes that's it. :thumbs_up_medium-light_skin_tone:
-
@NINJA what do you mean mate? The cdi is my problem?
@connorjordan185 The white block is the reed block, which you have found. The CDI may be the problem as the later models have a built in rev limiter. Read the guide aka the paragraph which starts "The manin restriction", then check which CDI you have? Better yet take and post a pic for us all to see.
-
@connorjordan185 The white block is the reed block, which you have found. The CDI may be the problem as the later models have a built in rev limiter. Read the guide aka the paragraph which starts "The manin restriction", then check which CDI you have? Better yet take and post a pic for us all to see.
@NINJA my bike has only just started doing what it's doing, I removed the limiter atleast a year ago and it's just started spluttering about a month ago, I was out on it yesterday and downhill i managed to get the bike to rev to 9or10 thousand, which it has never done for atleast a month now so this is leading me to believe it's something stupid restricting the power and rev's
-
I think your CDI will be restricted if its stamped 3RM-10 but should be ok if its 3RM-20 or 3RM-30. If its the latter, check the powervalve isn't rotated to a restricted position which is what mine was.
@d3cme pretty sure my bike doesn't have any electronic limiters left on it, as it has been de-restricted for atleast a year and has only started to play up about a month ago. I have my powervalve turned and stuck open yet the bike has no power atall and really struggles to pull me on the flat nevermind up hill. It will rev the clock noproblem in neutral but once riding, it splutters and coughs at around 6000rpm to 6500rpm then it pulls well up until around 7000rpm then splutters like it's bouncing off a limiter, this really has my head baffled, I'm a mechanic, I work on cars day in day out but I just can not find a single thing wrong with this bike
-
@d3cme pretty sure my bike doesn't have any electronic limiters left on it, as it has been de-restricted for atleast a year and has only started to play up about a month ago. I have my powervalve turned and stuck open yet the bike has no power atall and really struggles to pull me on the flat nevermind up hill. It will rev the clock noproblem in neutral but once riding, it splutters and coughs at around 6000rpm to 6500rpm then it pulls well up until around 7000rpm then splutters like it's bouncing off a limiter, this really has my head baffled, I'm a mechanic, I work on cars day in day out but I just can not find a single thing wrong with this bike
@connorjordan185 It sounds like you have another problem dude, go through this list and check each point;
- Is the PV adjusted and performing correctly?
- Check Spark plug cap and HT lead for any faults?
- Is the coil in good order, are you getting a good spark?
- Are any of the jets blocked?
- Are there any blockages/leakages/worn pipes etc in the air flow system/inlet manifold, or is the air filter clogged up?
- What is the engines compression, have you checked it?
- Any loose nuts/bolts on cylinder head?
- Is the Head gasket OK?
- Is the cylinder head warped?
- Any loose joints/seals or holes in your exhaust system?
I would check all of those and see what any of those show. If they are all good then you may have a worn piston, rings, or cylinder? Or your crankshaft oil seals may have gone? But a compression test will give you an idea of what condition your bottom end is in???
-
@connorjordan185 It sounds like you have another problem dude, go through this list and check each point;
- Is the PV adjusted and performing correctly?
- Check Spark plug cap and HT lead for any faults?
- Is the coil in good order, are you getting a good spark?
- Are any of the jets blocked?
- Are there any blockages/leakages/worn pipes etc in the air flow system/inlet manifold, or is the air filter clogged up?
- What is the engines compression, have you checked it?
- Any loose nuts/bolts on cylinder head?
- Is the Head gasket OK?
- Is the cylinder head warped?
- Any loose joints/seals or holes in your exhaust system?
I would check all of those and see what any of those show. If they are all good then you may have a worn piston, rings, or cylinder? Or your crankshaft oil seals may have gone? But a compression test will give you an idea of what condition your bottom end is in???
@NINJA thanks mate, I will go through everything on the list, but my bike did have a full engine rebuild just before I bought it, and since then it's had 1 piston, then it overheated due to a broken thermostat which warped the head, so the head got skimmed and a new piston fitted while it was in bits. So I believe the engine to be in ahright nick, even so I did do a compression test last week and come back between 90 and 100? If this was a car I would be worried but I believe it should be around this figure I just couldn't find an exact figure
-
@NINJA thanks mate, I will go through everything on the list, but my bike did have a full engine rebuild just before I bought it, and since then it's had 1 piston, then it overheated due to a broken thermostat which warped the head, so the head got skimmed and a new piston fitted while it was in bits. So I believe the engine to be in ahright nick, even so I did do a compression test last week and come back between 90 and 100? If this was a car I would be worried but I believe it should be around this figure I just couldn't find an exact figure
@connorjordan185 A 90-100psi compression is on the low side, 2 stroke engines normally run higher at 120psi+, the optimal compression range should be between 120-140psi, which is the most common range with these bikes. It sounds like you either have a leak in the air flow system, or damaged reeds? Or a dirty carb/partially blocked jets or one or more of the engine seals have gone? Which is the most likely culprit, as the crankshaft seals are usually the first to go.
How many miles has it done since your last rebuild? Did you 'run in' the new piston? Your overheating problem may have also damaged the piston rings, hence the low compression. You have lots of area's to look for faults, it's just a process of elimination until you find the culprit???
-
@connorjordan185 A 90-100psi compression is on the low side, 2 stroke engines normally run higher at 120psi+, the optimal compression range should be between 120-140psi, which is the most common range with these bikes. It sounds like you either have a leak in the air flow system, or damaged reeds? Or a dirty carb/partially blocked jets or one or more of the engine seals have gone? Which is the most likely culprit, as the crankshaft seals are usually the first to go.
How many miles has it done since your last rebuild? Did you 'run in' the new piston? Your overheating problem may have also damaged the piston rings, hence the low compression. You have lots of area's to look for faults, it's just a process of elimination until you find the culprit???
-
@NINJA ahright thanks mate, I will double check the compression now because I'm not 100% certain on those figures, but thank you for your help mate, I now have some ideas of where to start looking
@connorjordan185 Your welcome!!!
Here’s a great tip for you, do 3-5 compression tests and record the results. Then squirt some oil, about a teaspoon's worth, into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Now re-run the same amount of tests again. Adding the oil will hold compression for several turns of the engine. If your retest with oil gives a higher compression test result, you will know the rings are worn. If there is no change in compression, it's most likely a worn engine seal?
