'92 Yamaha WR200
-
Looks great! Nice to see another one
-
I've been having fun with jetting today, currently im using 220 main jet and 37,5 pilot jet, but the bike is still running a little rich. Its kinda weird that after changing the silencer or pipe in DT125R you install 240 & 30 jets and the bike is running fine, but the WR with the FMF pipe likes the small jets. Originally there was a 210 main jet installed but after the new piston is runned-in I think of buying the 200 size. The air mixture screw is almost totally open now(means a lot of air) but the bike is still running rich, and as I go down with the sizes its better and better. I have the rubber air-scoop in the airbox still installed and it will stay this way. Other than that I love the new high-quality sleeve and the power it provides. Maybe Ill go for a ride tomorrow, but there's still some work to do, like rebuilding the front caliper and the brake pump.
-
@Challenger it's not just the main jet size to take into account. The needles jet and the Jet needle is also to take into account
- The dt200wr / wr200 has a power jet
-
@Louis-DT-WR I went 2.5 up on the pilot jet from 35 to 37,5, but the engine doesnt like any bigger jets I try to install. I didnt take the power jet into account, it says on the parts diagram it should be 0.8 originally, I'll check that out. The needle is always in the most closed position(pin on the top mounting point), otherwise the engine doesnt want to rev at all.
-
-
Lately I've been rebuilding brakes, currently waiting for the front & rear brake pump rebuild kits:
-
@Challenger As a Videographer and editor I cannot thank you enough for uploading a video to YouTube in 1080p @ 60fps and actually making a sick little edit. Good camera, audio and riding is everything needed to do the bike justice. I hadn’t actually realised until now that you where a member but I’d watched loads of your videos
Also what do you do to bring those callipers up nice like that?
-
@Nottsbiker all caliper pistons are staying OEM, they were not worn out that much to replace them. I only changed seals(bought from the dealers) and I will also change the copper gaskets, brake pads bolts and rear brake pads. Im always using OEM rear brake pads as they seem to last the longest. Once I bought some aftermarket pads and they lasted one muddy ride. And they were also not the cheapest ones.
I also had to replace the rear brake caliper as one bolt that holds the pads was so stuck that it came off with the thread from caliper. I dont know why that happened as I unbolted it during the major bike rebuild but that happened. Good thing is that I have a stash of WR/DT parts so I just grabbed another one from the shelf. Now I will lubricate the thread before installing the bolt.@Stevie-Wonder thanks for the comment. Generally Im into old car movies and car chases so I try to recreat that in a way by making a videos with my bikes. I often want to add some 80s music to my vids but even tho I have some great songs picked up I cant force myself to drown out that 2 stroke sound
To clean the calipers I used Tenzi Alux and Dimer. I dont know if they are avaible in UK but the first one is for cleaning aluminium rims and the second one is a general vehicle parts cleaner sold as "active foam".The thread will not die as Im thinking about the SM setup for this bike, and Im also building another 200cc bike. Currently Im waiting for some information from the guy thats the motorcycle wheels hero in my country.
-
I already have a spare set of hubs ready for an SM build
I'm also slowly gathering new / genuine body panels for a refresh at some point including doing the frame and all the suspension bushes.
In addition to the 200WR I also have a Belgarda TDR125 3sh in bits that I'm working on slowly as the parts come up across the EU. Already found an alloy swingarm from a DT200R for it and also looking for a 200R engine and exhaust set up for it but this is a slow burner as they are rare / expensive and I have a running 125 motor. The killer with this build is Belgarda parts are so hard to come by now.
What headlight / front mudguard combo will you run with SM wheels as the stock guard is way too long for SM but integrated with the orginal light surround? Currently I have DT125X complete light on mine with YZ guard but in black as cannot get white
-
@Nottsbiker That sounds like a nice build and I even have all the parts you mentioned, but not for sale unfortunately
If I instal SM setup I will definiately leave the oem mudguard and headlight. I still want the bike to have the original appearance. The brakes are all done and installed but I will have to replace the front brake hose, as the front brake still feels a little spongy.
Heres how my 200R swingarm came out:
-
Looks tidy - assume that was with Scotchbrite or similar pads?
-
@Nottsbiker yeah, I used a tool that looks like that
-
I totally love this bike
I have the front 17 wheel done:
And I will be using rear wheel from WR125X that fits bolt-on. Now Im saving money for the tires
-
Looks great - I've got a pair of hubs lined up for mine later on this year but will go with having the pair built
I've also got a set needing doing for my Belgarda tdr but cant make up my mind if I should keep the odd 18 inch front rim or go 17 on that as well....
How much did the front cost you?
I bought a front hub for approx £50 and a rear for around £20 so I can keep my off road wheels (probably never use them again though).
-
@Nottsbiker I dont think I will be using them that much, as I like going offroad on the WR much more, thats why Im not building any sick setup. I had a spare hub, bought the used rim from WR250X for 16£ 2 years ago(straight and no damage other than few scratches), and the guy took 63£ for making stainless steel spokes, painting the hub and putting it together. You can see that the 250X has a different hole drill patent so half of the spokes are a little bit bent.
Id go for the 17 inch if you can afford buying some brand rims, or you can spot the bargain
-
So here it is, the hillbilly supermoto setup:
