Exhaust blowby, engine wall damage
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My bike was chucking oil out, turns out the oem cable doesn’t fit properly and is allowing too much oil in. Also the pump wasn’t closing unless you let the throttle snap shut aggressively. I’m putting it back together atm. I need to check the pump lift when it’s done. I’ll let you know if it’s a cure for the smoke/oil drip problem when it’s done...
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@SpookDog I have turned the cable all the way in now. Will re-adjust after putting in the new oil and running it for a bit. Thanks
@crosserke what do you mean about turning the cable in, if the pump is adjusted too little you may seize the engine
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This weekend, I tipped out the remaining oil in the reservoir and replaced it with something suitable for direct injection from Motul.
I did a short ride to get the old oil left in de tube trough and ready for further testing.
This is what my spark plug looked like before switching oils.
And yes I gave some more slack on the cable for the pump because it looked too rich on oil for me dripping onto my brakes after 15min of riding didn't make me feel safe.
I will check what it looks like right now later today.
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Update on the spark plug:
This is with the oil pump adjuster turned all the way in = most slack and least amount of oil.
I noticed one drip on the cam but no oil in the casing.
Could the pump be sending too much oil in any way due to wear?
I might look into a rebuild if that's the case. -
The cable doesn’t adjust oil flow. It just makes the pump open sooner or later. You want the pulley to start moving at the same time the carb slide starts to take slack off the cable and lift.
Any adjustment to flow is done by adjusting shim washers under the nut and washer on top of the pulley...
There should be a gap of 0.20 - 0.25mm when it opens and closes at tickover...The problem with mine was that the cable outer was too long (or the inner too short) and wasn’t letting the pulley close fully. I had a gap of about 6mm, so it was always a bit open. I’ve put it back together and checked the clearance gap between washer and top of pulley, but I still have excessive smoke at tickover.
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The cable doesn’t adjust oil flow. It just makes the pump open sooner or later. You want the pulley to start moving at the same time the carb slide starts to take slack off the cable and lift.
Any adjustment to flow is done by adjusting shim washers under the nut and washer on top of the pulley...
There should be a gap of 0.20 - 0.25mm when it opens and closes at tickover...The problem with mine was that the cable outer was too long (or the inner too short) and wasn’t letting the pulley close fully. I had a gap of about 6mm, so it was always a bit open. I’ve put it back together and checked the clearance gap between washer and top of pulley, but I still have excessive smoke at tickover.
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The cable doesn’t adjust oil flow. It just makes the pump open sooner or later. You want the pulley to start moving at the same time the carb slide starts to take slack off the cable and lift.
Any adjustment to flow is done by adjusting shim washers under the nut and washer on top of the pulley...
There should be a gap of 0.20 - 0.25mm when it opens and closes at tickover...The problem with mine was that the cable outer was too long (or the inner too short) and wasn’t letting the pulley close fully. I had a gap of about 6mm, so it was always a bit open. I’ve put it back together and checked the clearance gap between washer and top of pulley, but I still have excessive smoke at tickover.
@SpookDog are you sure on that bud im pretty sure that it works to increase the oil flow when its actuated when i bleed mine i have my premix going and i can actuate the pump and i will get more oil flow with the vacuum line disconnected too its been a few yrs but im sure im remembering it correct i don't believe my style of pump has any available shims.
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The older 4BL pumps can be adjusted with a washer.
The newer pumps are non-adjustable. Just the cabling that allows minor adjustment to pump operation.
