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DT125R FORUM

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Carb Parts

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Carburetor
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  • C Offline
    C Offline
    chris
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Hello,

    does anyone know where to buy a new Throttle-Spring?
    I mean the big one that is at the end of throttle cable and goes into the carb.

    alt text

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    • C chris

      Hello,

      does anyone know where to buy a new Throttle-Spring?
      I mean the big one that is at the end of throttle cable and goes into the carb.

      alt text

      C Offline
      C Offline
      chris
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      At Mikuni and Yamaha dealers it is out of stock and no longer available😧

      Found a supplier, that has the specs, nearly equal the original spring I hope

      While Im at it, what would you suggest to get for carburetor adjusting
      for a "stock" 4BL that has no more known restricted parts?
      main jets in 230,240,250? others?
      which idle jets?

      S 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • C chris

        At Mikuni and Yamaha dealers it is out of stock and no longer available😧

        Found a supplier, that has the specs, nearly equal the original spring I hope

        While Im at it, what would you suggest to get for carburetor adjusting
        for a "stock" 4BL that has no more known restricted parts?
        main jets in 230,240,250? others?
        which idle jets?

        S Offline
        S Offline
        SpookDog
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        @chris
        I’d look for a kit online. Full range. Why do you want to change the jetting?...

        C 1 Reply Last reply
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        • S SpookDog

          @chris
          I’d look for a kit online. Full range. Why do you want to change the jetting?...

          C Offline
          C Offline
          chris
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          Hi, I want to change the jets because I dont know whats in there at the moment
          The whole bike was not used for 6 years, it startet after the third kick, but it was idleing at 5000 rpm and I couldnt get it down
          and it was dying with too much gas-pull, also the gas was hanging a bit in the end position

          What is the full range you mean?

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • CalumC Offline
            CalumC Offline
            Calum
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            Sounds like an airleak to me.

            Always Originate, Never Pirate!

            C 1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • CalumC Calum

              Sounds like an airleak to me.

              C Offline
              C Offline
              chris
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              @Calum

              That might be possible.
              I didnt check the airfilter before starting the long time sleeper 🤦
              After opening the airbox I found the filter was crumbling apart
              I could image that this was causing it, but wouldnt that mean less air instead?
              Even after opening the carb and realising its not even slightly dirt in there Iam wondering what caused the high idle rpm

              maybe carb itself leaking?
              I have ultrasonic cleaned all the parts, will redo all screws, hoses and gaskets and check again

              Whats the correct main and idle jet, is 240 and 25 okay?

              S 1 Reply Last reply
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              • C chris

                @Calum

                That might be possible.
                I didnt check the airfilter before starting the long time sleeper 🤦
                After opening the airbox I found the filter was crumbling apart
                I could image that this was causing it, but wouldnt that mean less air instead?
                Even after opening the carb and realising its not even slightly dirt in there Iam wondering what caused the high idle rpm

                maybe carb itself leaking?
                I have ultrasonic cleaned all the parts, will redo all screws, hoses and gaskets and check again

                Whats the correct main and idle jet, is 240 and 25 okay?

                S Offline
                S Offline
                SpookDog
                wrote on last edited by SpookDog
                #7

                wow! I wouldn’t mess with the jetting until you’ve found the cause of the high revving. A split in the inlet manifold would be first try...
                How long have you had the bike? How long has it been high revving? Have YOU altered anything?
                P.S. Full range just means all the different sizes. I’ve seen them being sold as a set...
                P.P.S. What is your native language?...

                C 1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • S SpookDog

                  wow! I wouldn’t mess with the jetting until you’ve found the cause of the high revving. A split in the inlet manifold would be first try...
                  How long have you had the bike? How long has it been high revving? Have YOU altered anything?
                  P.S. Full range just means all the different sizes. I’ve seen them being sold as a set...
                  P.P.S. What is your native language?...

                  C Offline
                  C Offline
                  chris
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  @SpookDog
                  going to stock jets is no messing around I think
                  the inlet looks okay
                  I bought it years ago, rode it for 2 month without anything unusual and put it to a six year sleep, till now.

                  The idea of this start was to burn in the new exhaust paint, check if the cooling system that I partly redid was proof and get the motor warm for an oil change after

                  I let it run for ca 20 min till the cooling system was leaking on a hose

                  This run was with the 6+ years old crumbling airfilter, what I realised only later

                  im from ger

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                  • C chris

                    @SpookDog
                    going to stock jets is no messing around I think
                    the inlet looks okay
                    I bought it years ago, rode it for 2 month without anything unusual and put it to a six year sleep, till now.

                    The idea of this start was to burn in the new exhaust paint, check if the cooling system that I partly redid was proof and get the motor warm for an oil change after

                    I let it run for ca 20 min till the cooling system was leaking on a hose

                    This run was with the 6+ years old crumbling airfilter, what I realised only later

                    im from ger

                    S Offline
                    S Offline
                    SpookDog
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    @chris
                    Guden Tag then bud! 😎

                    Going back to standard would be bestest, but if it was running good 6 years ago I’d leave it until you work out the problem with ticking over @ 5000rpm! Even having no filter wouldn’t cause it.
                    Have you removed all the filter bits and cleaned out the carb since finding it, are you sure the slide is closing fully? No cable catching on an adjuster?
                    I usually spray a bit of carb/brake cleaner around suspected areas while the bike ticks over. If there’s a leak it usually settles down to normal revs...
                    It really does sound like a big air leak between the casing and the carb...

                    C 2 Replies Last reply
                    1
                    • S SpookDog

                      @chris
                      Guden Tag then bud! 😎

                      Going back to standard would be bestest, but if it was running good 6 years ago I’d leave it until you work out the problem with ticking over @ 5000rpm! Even having no filter wouldn’t cause it.
                      Have you removed all the filter bits and cleaned out the carb since finding it, are you sure the slide is closing fully? No cable catching on an adjuster?
                      I usually spray a bit of carb/brake cleaner around suspected areas while the bike ticks over. If there’s a leak it usually settles down to normal revs...
                      It really does sound like a big air leak between the casing and the carb...

                      C Offline
                      C Offline
                      chris
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      @SpookDog
                      Danke sehr

                      After that I cleaned the airbox and put a new and oiled filter in there.
                      Then I opened the carb, 5 screws were done and had to be drilled out, was a 2 hour pain in the ass work, I will use better screws with hexagon drive soon
                      I wondered how clean the carb was inside
                      The housing parts etc. are now ultrasonic cleaned and the spare parts available are ordered

                      Do the gaskets for the housing parts have to be oiled during assembly?

                      What would be the correct torque for the housing screws?

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • S SpookDog

                        @chris
                        Guden Tag then bud! 😎

                        Going back to standard would be bestest, but if it was running good 6 years ago I’d leave it until you work out the problem with ticking over @ 5000rpm! Even having no filter wouldn’t cause it.
                        Have you removed all the filter bits and cleaned out the carb since finding it, are you sure the slide is closing fully? No cable catching on an adjuster?
                        I usually spray a bit of carb/brake cleaner around suspected areas while the bike ticks over. If there’s a leak it usually settles down to normal revs...
                        It really does sound like a big air leak between the casing and the carb...

                        C Offline
                        C Offline
                        chris
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        @SpookDog

                        Now in hindsight I remember the choke's nut was loose
                        I didn't pay any attention to that, maybe that could be the cause of the air leak you mentioned.

                        **Do the gaskets for the housing parts have to be oiled/greased during assembly?

                        What would be the correct torque for the housing screws?**

                        S 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • C chris

                          @SpookDog

                          Now in hindsight I remember the choke's nut was loose
                          I didn't pay any attention to that, maybe that could be the cause of the air leak you mentioned.

                          **Do the gaskets for the housing parts have to be oiled/greased during assembly?

                          What would be the correct torque for the housing screws?**

                          S Offline
                          S Offline
                          SpookDog
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #12

                          @chris
                          I’d use a small amount of grease myself. The bolts I do by instinct. You’d need a mikuni manual or search their site. It’d be almost unmeasurable unless you have a very delicate torque wrench...

                          C 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • S SpookDog

                            @chris
                            I’d use a small amount of grease myself. The bolts I do by instinct. You’d need a mikuni manual or search their site. It’d be almost unmeasurable unless you have a very delicate torque wrench...

                            C Offline
                            C Offline
                            chris
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #13

                            @SpookDog
                            Yes, precisely because it is difficult to estimate, I always use a torque wrench on my rides to tighten if possible and the values ​​from the manufacturer are available
                            Mikuni manuals do not have this info apparently

                            I guess 5nm would be max for the m4 screws, and about 3nm for the brass stuff, but official data would be nicer

                            S 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • C chris

                              @SpookDog
                              Yes, precisely because it is difficult to estimate, I always use a torque wrench on my rides to tighten if possible and the values ​​from the manufacturer are available
                              Mikuni manuals do not have this info apparently

                              I guess 5nm would be max for the m4 screws, and about 3nm for the brass stuff, but official data would be nicer

                              S Offline
                              S Offline
                              SpookDog
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #14

                              @chris
                              As long as the threads are all clean, I do them all finger tight, then 1/4 to 1/2 turn. As long as they are all the same. That’s what’s important...

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              1
                              • CalumC Offline
                                CalumC Offline
                                Calum
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #15

                                Yeah torque wrenches have their uses, but with soft metals you have to be really careful, much better to do it by feel. It's not something that undergoes massss of stress so torquing it isn't absolutely necessary.

                                Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                1
                                • C Offline
                                  C Offline
                                  chris
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #16

                                  I found new informations, here are the essential tightening torques:
                                  Float chamber screws: 2.0 Nm
                                  Main jet: 2.0 Nm
                                  Slide cover screws: 2.0Nm
                                  Screw slide lever: 3.5Nm
                                  Drain screw: 2.0Nm

                                  carb housing gasket at https://www.gasketguru.co.uk/

                                  Also i found the throttle-spring at http://www.motocarb.com/tm-parts.html

                                  still looking for the nozzle assembly

                                  @Calum

                                  can you allow to edit posts, then I could reformat opening post and edit this infos? could be nice for others also looking for parts and stuff

                                  CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
                                  1
                                  • C chris

                                    I found new informations, here are the essential tightening torques:
                                    Float chamber screws: 2.0 Nm
                                    Main jet: 2.0 Nm
                                    Slide cover screws: 2.0Nm
                                    Screw slide lever: 3.5Nm
                                    Drain screw: 2.0Nm

                                    carb housing gasket at https://www.gasketguru.co.uk/

                                    Also i found the throttle-spring at http://www.motocarb.com/tm-parts.html

                                    still looking for the nozzle assembly

                                    @Calum

                                    can you allow to edit posts, then I could reformat opening post and edit this infos? could be nice for others also looking for parts and stuff

                                    CalumC Offline
                                    CalumC Offline
                                    Calum
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #17

                                    @chris Create a new thread with the appropriate title and formatting, and I will sticky the post for you bud!

                                    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                                    C 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • CalumC Calum

                                      @chris Create a new thread with the appropriate title and formatting, and I will sticky the post for you bud!

                                      C Offline
                                      C Offline
                                      chris
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #18

                                      @Calum
                                      okay, will do that later when the carb is complete

                                      1 Reply Last reply
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