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DT125R FORUM

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Carb Parts

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Carburetor
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  • C chris

    At Mikuni and Yamaha dealers it is out of stock and no longer available😧

    Found a supplier, that has the specs, nearly equal the original spring I hope

    While Im at it, what would you suggest to get for carburetor adjusting
    for a "stock" 4BL that has no more known restricted parts?
    main jets in 230,240,250? others?
    which idle jets?

    S Offline
    S Offline
    SpookDog
    wrote on last edited by
    #3

    @chris
    I’d look for a kit online. Full range. Why do you want to change the jetting?...

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    • S SpookDog

      @chris
      I’d look for a kit online. Full range. Why do you want to change the jetting?...

      C Offline
      C Offline
      chris
      wrote on last edited by
      #4

      Hi, I want to change the jets because I dont know whats in there at the moment
      The whole bike was not used for 6 years, it startet after the third kick, but it was idleing at 5000 rpm and I couldnt get it down
      and it was dying with too much gas-pull, also the gas was hanging a bit in the end position

      What is the full range you mean?

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      • CalumC Offline
        CalumC Offline
        Calum
        wrote on last edited by
        #5

        Sounds like an airleak to me.

        Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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        • CalumC Calum

          Sounds like an airleak to me.

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          C Offline
          chris
          wrote on last edited by
          #6

          @Calum

          That might be possible.
          I didnt check the airfilter before starting the long time sleeper 🤦
          After opening the airbox I found the filter was crumbling apart
          I could image that this was causing it, but wouldnt that mean less air instead?
          Even after opening the carb and realising its not even slightly dirt in there Iam wondering what caused the high idle rpm

          maybe carb itself leaking?
          I have ultrasonic cleaned all the parts, will redo all screws, hoses and gaskets and check again

          Whats the correct main and idle jet, is 240 and 25 okay?

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          • C chris

            @Calum

            That might be possible.
            I didnt check the airfilter before starting the long time sleeper 🤦
            After opening the airbox I found the filter was crumbling apart
            I could image that this was causing it, but wouldnt that mean less air instead?
            Even after opening the carb and realising its not even slightly dirt in there Iam wondering what caused the high idle rpm

            maybe carb itself leaking?
            I have ultrasonic cleaned all the parts, will redo all screws, hoses and gaskets and check again

            Whats the correct main and idle jet, is 240 and 25 okay?

            S Offline
            S Offline
            SpookDog
            wrote on last edited by SpookDog
            #7

            wow! I wouldn’t mess with the jetting until you’ve found the cause of the high revving. A split in the inlet manifold would be first try...
            How long have you had the bike? How long has it been high revving? Have YOU altered anything?
            P.S. Full range just means all the different sizes. I’ve seen them being sold as a set...
            P.P.S. What is your native language?...

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            • S SpookDog

              wow! I wouldn’t mess with the jetting until you’ve found the cause of the high revving. A split in the inlet manifold would be first try...
              How long have you had the bike? How long has it been high revving? Have YOU altered anything?
              P.S. Full range just means all the different sizes. I’ve seen them being sold as a set...
              P.P.S. What is your native language?...

              C Offline
              C Offline
              chris
              wrote on last edited by
              #8

              @SpookDog
              going to stock jets is no messing around I think
              the inlet looks okay
              I bought it years ago, rode it for 2 month without anything unusual and put it to a six year sleep, till now.

              The idea of this start was to burn in the new exhaust paint, check if the cooling system that I partly redid was proof and get the motor warm for an oil change after

              I let it run for ca 20 min till the cooling system was leaking on a hose

              This run was with the 6+ years old crumbling airfilter, what I realised only later

              im from ger

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              • C chris

                @SpookDog
                going to stock jets is no messing around I think
                the inlet looks okay
                I bought it years ago, rode it for 2 month without anything unusual and put it to a six year sleep, till now.

                The idea of this start was to burn in the new exhaust paint, check if the cooling system that I partly redid was proof and get the motor warm for an oil change after

                I let it run for ca 20 min till the cooling system was leaking on a hose

                This run was with the 6+ years old crumbling airfilter, what I realised only later

                im from ger

                S Offline
                S Offline
                SpookDog
                wrote on last edited by
                #9

                @chris
                Guden Tag then bud! 😎

                Going back to standard would be bestest, but if it was running good 6 years ago I’d leave it until you work out the problem with ticking over @ 5000rpm! Even having no filter wouldn’t cause it.
                Have you removed all the filter bits and cleaned out the carb since finding it, are you sure the slide is closing fully? No cable catching on an adjuster?
                I usually spray a bit of carb/brake cleaner around suspected areas while the bike ticks over. If there’s a leak it usually settles down to normal revs...
                It really does sound like a big air leak between the casing and the carb...

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                • S SpookDog

                  @chris
                  Guden Tag then bud! 😎

                  Going back to standard would be bestest, but if it was running good 6 years ago I’d leave it until you work out the problem with ticking over @ 5000rpm! Even having no filter wouldn’t cause it.
                  Have you removed all the filter bits and cleaned out the carb since finding it, are you sure the slide is closing fully? No cable catching on an adjuster?
                  I usually spray a bit of carb/brake cleaner around suspected areas while the bike ticks over. If there’s a leak it usually settles down to normal revs...
                  It really does sound like a big air leak between the casing and the carb...

                  C Offline
                  C Offline
                  chris
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #10

                  @SpookDog
                  Danke sehr

                  After that I cleaned the airbox and put a new and oiled filter in there.
                  Then I opened the carb, 5 screws were done and had to be drilled out, was a 2 hour pain in the ass work, I will use better screws with hexagon drive soon
                  I wondered how clean the carb was inside
                  The housing parts etc. are now ultrasonic cleaned and the spare parts available are ordered

                  Do the gaskets for the housing parts have to be oiled during assembly?

                  What would be the correct torque for the housing screws?

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                  • S SpookDog

                    @chris
                    Guden Tag then bud! 😎

                    Going back to standard would be bestest, but if it was running good 6 years ago I’d leave it until you work out the problem with ticking over @ 5000rpm! Even having no filter wouldn’t cause it.
                    Have you removed all the filter bits and cleaned out the carb since finding it, are you sure the slide is closing fully? No cable catching on an adjuster?
                    I usually spray a bit of carb/brake cleaner around suspected areas while the bike ticks over. If there’s a leak it usually settles down to normal revs...
                    It really does sound like a big air leak between the casing and the carb...

                    C Offline
                    C Offline
                    chris
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #11

                    @SpookDog

                    Now in hindsight I remember the choke's nut was loose
                    I didn't pay any attention to that, maybe that could be the cause of the air leak you mentioned.

                    **Do the gaskets for the housing parts have to be oiled/greased during assembly?

                    What would be the correct torque for the housing screws?**

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                    • C chris

                      @SpookDog

                      Now in hindsight I remember the choke's nut was loose
                      I didn't pay any attention to that, maybe that could be the cause of the air leak you mentioned.

                      **Do the gaskets for the housing parts have to be oiled/greased during assembly?

                      What would be the correct torque for the housing screws?**

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                      S Offline
                      SpookDog
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #12

                      @chris
                      I’d use a small amount of grease myself. The bolts I do by instinct. You’d need a mikuni manual or search their site. It’d be almost unmeasurable unless you have a very delicate torque wrench...

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                      • S SpookDog

                        @chris
                        I’d use a small amount of grease myself. The bolts I do by instinct. You’d need a mikuni manual or search their site. It’d be almost unmeasurable unless you have a very delicate torque wrench...

                        C Offline
                        C Offline
                        chris
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #13

                        @SpookDog
                        Yes, precisely because it is difficult to estimate, I always use a torque wrench on my rides to tighten if possible and the values ​​from the manufacturer are available
                        Mikuni manuals do not have this info apparently

                        I guess 5nm would be max for the m4 screws, and about 3nm for the brass stuff, but official data would be nicer

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                        • C chris

                          @SpookDog
                          Yes, precisely because it is difficult to estimate, I always use a torque wrench on my rides to tighten if possible and the values ​​from the manufacturer are available
                          Mikuni manuals do not have this info apparently

                          I guess 5nm would be max for the m4 screws, and about 3nm for the brass stuff, but official data would be nicer

                          S Offline
                          S Offline
                          SpookDog
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #14

                          @chris
                          As long as the threads are all clean, I do them all finger tight, then 1/4 to 1/2 turn. As long as they are all the same. That’s what’s important...

                          1 Reply Last reply
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                          • CalumC Offline
                            CalumC Offline
                            Calum
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #15

                            Yeah torque wrenches have their uses, but with soft metals you have to be really careful, much better to do it by feel. It's not something that undergoes massss of stress so torquing it isn't absolutely necessary.

                            Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                            1 Reply Last reply
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                            • C Offline
                              C Offline
                              chris
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #16

                              I found new informations, here are the essential tightening torques:
                              Float chamber screws: 2.0 Nm
                              Main jet: 2.0 Nm
                              Slide cover screws: 2.0Nm
                              Screw slide lever: 3.5Nm
                              Drain screw: 2.0Nm

                              carb housing gasket at https://www.gasketguru.co.uk/

                              Also i found the throttle-spring at http://www.motocarb.com/tm-parts.html

                              still looking for the nozzle assembly

                              @Calum

                              can you allow to edit posts, then I could reformat opening post and edit this infos? could be nice for others also looking for parts and stuff

                              CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
                              1
                              • C chris

                                I found new informations, here are the essential tightening torques:
                                Float chamber screws: 2.0 Nm
                                Main jet: 2.0 Nm
                                Slide cover screws: 2.0Nm
                                Screw slide lever: 3.5Nm
                                Drain screw: 2.0Nm

                                carb housing gasket at https://www.gasketguru.co.uk/

                                Also i found the throttle-spring at http://www.motocarb.com/tm-parts.html

                                still looking for the nozzle assembly

                                @Calum

                                can you allow to edit posts, then I could reformat opening post and edit this infos? could be nice for others also looking for parts and stuff

                                CalumC Offline
                                CalumC Offline
                                Calum
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #17

                                @chris Create a new thread with the appropriate title and formatting, and I will sticky the post for you bud!

                                Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                                C 1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • CalumC Calum

                                  @chris Create a new thread with the appropriate title and formatting, and I will sticky the post for you bud!

                                  C Offline
                                  C Offline
                                  chris
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #18

                                  @Calum
                                  okay, will do that later when the carb is complete

                                  1 Reply Last reply
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