Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR)
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@stevie-wonder Custom fab is always going to pricey
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@calum so £200 actually isn’t too out of the question? Speaking to Ryan (my uncles mate) and my uncle they all reckon that even at that price the guy was doing it cheaper then anywhere else and was doing them a favour (the guy with the big lathe who offered to do it owns the workshop next to them so they’re all mates)
I’m shocked by the price but simultaneously I understand it’s also one of those things not everyone can do.
I should probably mention it’s a bloody good thing I have some £££ to afford it and really want to see those USD’s on my bike
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@stevie-wonder Well I know from experience you're talking a few hours work. Most of the work is trueing the lathe etc. If you're on £100 an hour, which is typical for engineers, then yeah it's a good deal. It's not something that can CNC and make batches of, it's a custom job and requires a man to stand there and do it.
I had people asking how much for the Hydraulic clutch conversion on my RS and again, I would want £500 because of how long it takes and if I mess it up, you have to start again from scratch. So it is what it is.
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@calum said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
@stevie-wonder Well I know from experience you're talking a few hours work. Most of the work is trueing the lathe etc. If you're on £100 an hour, which is typical for engineers, then yeah it's a good deal. It's not something that can CNC and make batches of, it's a custom job and requires a man to stand there and do it.
I had people asking how much for the Hydraulic clutch conversion on my RS and again, I would want £500 because of how long it takes and if I mess it up, you have to start again from scratch. So it is what it is.
See, I can appreciate that. I imagined the skill being somewhat like tattooing in that sense. Only one go, hours of dedication to get good and a specialised skill. Except if you fuck up it comes out of your pocket. That’s why when I was quoted £200 I was keen to see if anywhere else could do it cheaper but I wasn’t quick to outright be insulting about the sum.
I did actually agree to paying £200 by the way. Having had that explained to me though makes it me realise someone’s looking after me, especially when knowing who’s doing it probably has 20+ years worth of experience. Something money can’t buy.
Speaking of which mate I remember you saying you where going to make a blog about USD conversion? Well as I’m doing mine I’m going to be taking videos of the entire process if they’ll be any use to you? -
@stevie-wonder I wrote a guide years ago
https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/17/usd-conversion-bearing-cup-methodBut you may as well create a new one if you think it would be useful.
I guess the difference being I done all the work myself so I have first hand experience on what was actually done. And I never fitted DTR wheels always just the RS wheels. So it all adds to the archive. Someone might find your stuff really useful
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Yeah bro I get that. Working on bikes really has taught me a newfound respect and envy for practical people and those with them capabilities.
I’m not sure if I will put the DTR wheels too, I need a second wheel set admittedly but I don’t think the standard DT ones would be worth the faff. The rotor size difference is big issue. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. I plan to just stick with the YZ 19” rear and same with the front. Also the machining is now doing by someone else on my behalf so I guess I won’t be able to get a video anymore, especially as it’s already half way done.
Anyway here she sits. In my uncles garage waiting on a bearing cup.
Imagine this but wrapped in layers of tarpaulin in all weathers for 6 months outside your door. Criminal. Even worse I’m unable to do anything because of university. I’ve learned a hard lesson from this. Don’t ever rush anything, prepare a hundred times over and always have double the money you expect to need but most importantly if it ain’t broke don’t fucking fix it!So as part of a new mantra I’m going to treat my bike less like a project and spend more time actually enjoying it. So once I’ve done all this I’ll go back to saving money and keeping an eye out for anything for the future.
Plenty more goodies to come.
What’s this...
It’s my girls new face, much prettier. The old one gave my elephant vibes.
1988’ 3ET DT200R Headlight. Stupidly priced even for its condition but apparently they aren’t too common. A small price to pay for completing the look/style I want and the cherry on the cake for those YZ forks.Sidenote
In case you haven’t noticed black doesn’t match my colour way... guess what that means. Spray paint. I hate to say it but it’s gotta be done.
It genuinely kills me purely for one simple reason. I grew up watching Camel Trophy as a kid with my dad on VHS. I even destroyed one of his tapes once as a kid trying to play them in the tv. I’d feel bad destroying that little bit of history, the little bit of 90’s and nostalgia. I wonder if could just mask it off? Or should I just leave it? What do you think. My mates reckon to leave it alone. -
It's whatever you're into really. My DT has probably done more miles up and down on the dolly than I have ridden it. The enjoyment comes from browsing the web, looking for parts and doing the work, I don't need to ride it to enjoy it. Same with my RS. Barely ridden that and the cost of the thing was eye watering.
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I feel you mate.
Each and everyone one of us that have embarked on our endeavours with these bikes have done so with a different story, motivating factor/purpose and a general idea of what they want to achieve.
MYou see some of the personality and mentality within someone’s build. Like we all got our own reasons for doing what we do and our own enjoyment. Mines just the simple learning curve. Like don’t get me wrong I find enjoyment in all those things you mentioned but because I entered this game not knowing anything I need a little help along the way.Speaking of which bearing cup is made however I’ve got of the phone to my uncle and he’s tack welded the bearing cup into my frame without me knowing
+ stripped my forks for their stanchions and springs. They where only rebuilt with OEM seals 300 miles ago 
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@stevie-wonder Might bearing cup was an interference fit. And then powdercoated. It's been that way for 6 years, over jumps and all sorts.
But to be honest, tack weld is very simple to undo so no dramas.
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It’s actually kinda mad seeing these pictures, all that talk and help from everyone is starting to come into fruition
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Welds do mean that I probably won’t be using my original forks for the foreseeable future.
Not what I wanted or had intended but maybe it’s for the best.In other news I cannot for the absolute fucking life of me find where I left my front disc & calliper guard for the standard forks. I put them somewhere safe like I would the rest of my parts I’ve taken off I’ve looked everywhere and I just can’t find them and it’s driving me mad.
Asked on fb and got quoted £70 for them used or £100 NOS through CMSNL. Ouch. Mine’s like new as well. -
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@calum in all honesty bro that’s what I thought too. It wasn’t until I phoned my uncle and he’d said “ive just welded it in” I rolled my eyes and though ohh bloody heck
Not to worry though, even if it was a pain in the ass to take off realistically the chances of me putting the original forks on anytime soon aren't exactly high.
Also treated myself to a few little Apico YZ bits. One of the best bits about using YZ parts is the amount of snazzy bling you can grab. Not trying to over do it though.
Another development is that I’ve realised yz125 aren't sprung very well to suit a bike that weighs around 100-110lbs more then it so I’m going to get a set of 450 forks instead and sell the YZ forks.
I’m not sure if I mentioned but the yz forks aren’t in the best condition anyway. My uncle made a real big rookie move and took a copper hammer to the fork top cap whilst removing the stanchions, took him a minute to realise why I was shouting at him. Besides that the forks are useable it’s just the upper fork legs look destroyed which isn’t very easy on the eye and seems that a new fork cap is around £70-80 and fixing the original isn’t an option (ill grab a photo of the damage) it makes more sense to flog the ones I have and get some new ones.
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@stevie-wonder That's what I'm running WR450F Forks. Been ramping them about for years no worries
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@Nottsbiker a lot of the ‘02 onwards YZ you can actually get a 320mm brake conversion kit that comes with a disc and the disc conversion plate for the later YZ’s
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184616428375@Calum i honestly can’t wait man, I haven’t rode my bike since June last year but now the RM80 is in the process of being sorted and simultaneously everything is in full swing with the DT. Absolutely buzzing. I’m gonna make sure I make up for my lack of riding and really put them forks to work. (Nows probably a good time to publicly admit setting up suspension/forks is a myth to me so I’m gonna tackle that too
)Second to handling improvements and weight savings I’m also really excited to see how she looks, I think with everything I’ve got now it once I get it on there she should look how I want
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We’re slowly starting to piece things together, like always when you’re at this stage the only thing to be holding you back or those little bits that no smarter how hard you plan you just always somehow forget.
As you can tell by the way it’s sitting in the frame I need a crown nut, some dust seals and washer plates. I forgot that mine came with them... I swear having to reorder from Fowler’s for something silly like £10-20 order after you’ve already done one the door before takes the P. I bet Fowler’s employees see them and are like “oop there’s another one”
For whatever reason as well my forks didn’t come with any handlebar clamps??? Fuck knows why, like what sort of dodgy person thinks to themselves I’ll flog them on eBay? I picked up some silver 22mm Apico risers.
I have a set of black fat bars from my last bike that I’ve been tempted to put on but never really got around to it. I know loads of people like them but not sure on the DT.I also didn’t have a top nut for the stem too, OEM one? £40 I think. Luckily our good friends from Apico have got us covered. £10. Nice! A little bit of tasteful bling that that actually saved me some dollar, you love to see it.
The other thing that arrived was a seat cover! Let’s just say of all the things I’ve ever tried to hunt for for any bike an OEM/Replica replacement seat cover has been the hardest
It’s weird too because according to “how many’s left” website 97/98 models are the second most common model. I know the seat cover was a 1-2 year only thing but I didn’t think it’d be that hard to find. Honestly boys I’ve spoke to the aussies, Germans, French, tried blagging Facebook and eBay and no luck until someone came through and give me a link for a shop called “bikerpartseu.com” which oddly enough stocks quite a lot of DTR replacement parts and other bits and pieces.
I messaged them a picture of my bike just to confirm the seat cover they have and colours correct, they confirmed.
Needless to say “GASSSED” was how I was feeling. I hate so much how the original seat covers ripped and even worse due to the nature of vinyl it just dries, cracks and forever worsens. Shit.There’s just one issue though...
In this photo they look the same
In this photo they don’t because as much as I don’t want to believe it, they don’t match. I thought to myself “I wonder if it’s just because of how much age has effected the colour?” But a quick check under the seat strap where it’s not aged or weathered reveals it’s just not to be, they’re different shades.
I even started to looking to replicating it myself and finding the materials myself but a local upholsterer with a textiles shop told me ” you will never find the exact cover the company that had it commissioned would have had the colour dye made and copyrighted as i have over 45 years experience selling vinyl it will always be different” so I’m wondering if I’m chasing a lost cause?
If anyone could feel I’d appreciate it so much. I need your help or someone like Scrimm for this one. Baffles me how common my model is yet you can’t get a seat cover
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@stevie-wonder So you still need to raise the yokes a fair bit so that the bottom bearing mates with the bottom race.
My seat on my Yamaha is original from new 17 years old and there isn't even a blemish on it.
Could it be that your seat cover is a replacement of the OEM one? Since it's synthetic, there really isn't much for it to "dry" on.
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Nah I wasn’t gonna run it like that don’t worry, think the MOT tester might have something to say hey bro
I think in the post previous I mentioned that I haven’t got a crown nut and a few other bits that’s what’s causing the gap.
I’ve now ordered a full RFX steering bearing kit as it comes with top and bottom dust covers (saves a tenner), I’ve just received the three spacers I need and I’m pretty sure I’ve also got the crown nut in a parcel next to me. I double and triple checked the parts diagram to make sure they where right, so fingers crossed no mistakes againI s’pose there’s no guarantee it’s genuine although I’d put money on it being genuine. Why? The only thing not original to the bike when I got it was the rear tire and it came with nearly 20 years of receipts and garage history from a Yamaha dealer in France and it’s only a two owner bike
Also when I say it’s dry too I mean on the areas where there’s rips/splits. Only in those areas like in the photo the materials have gone dry and gone brittle, like if you bend it it just cracks. Not having anything more then a bike cover to protect her from the U.K. weather hasn’t helped.
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@stevie-wonder In my ownership, it's always been kept in a garage. It only had 5k on the clocks when I bought it so it might just be down to how it was stored. But my previous DTR was not so looked after and that was fine. But this is going back 10+ years ago.
