Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR)
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Nah I wasn’t gonna run it like that don’t worry, think the MOT tester might have something to say hey bro I think in the post previous I mentioned that I haven’t got a crown nut and a few other bits that’s what’s causing the gap.
I’ve now ordered a full RFX steering bearing kit as it comes with top and bottom dust covers (saves a tenner), I’ve just received the three spacers I need and I’m pretty sure I’ve also got the crown nut in a parcel next to me. I double and triple checked the parts diagram to make sure they where right, so fingers crossed no mistakes againI s’pose there’s no guarantee it’s genuine although I’d put money on it being genuine. Why? The only thing not original to the bike when I got it was the rear tire and it came with nearly 20 years of receipts and garage history from a Yamaha dealer in France and it’s only a two owner bike
Also when I say it’s dry too I mean on the areas where there’s rips/splits. Only in those areas like in the photo the materials have gone dry and gone brittle, like if you bend it it just cracks. Not having anything more then a bike cover to protect her from the U.K. weather hasn’t helped.
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@stevie-wonder In my ownership, it's always been kept in a garage. It only had 5k on the clocks when I bought it so it might just be down to how it was stored. But my previous DTR was not so looked after and that was fine. But this is going back 10+ years ago.
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Lights! Camera! Action!
Another package from Greece, you know that means something 200 related.
WR200 engine maybe?
I wish , although anyone seen the DT200WR top and bottom end for sale? £800 starting bid
If the headlight is kinda like the face of my bike I guess that makes this like the eye right?
The headlight I bought never came with a bulb, connectors or anything of that nature. It was just spare glass and plastic. Luckily these lights are also used by WR200’s so they’re a little more common and spares are still available on Fowler’s. Genuine bulbs are pretty expensive though at £70, so I took a gamble ordering this one from eBay.
Fingers crossed the bulb in this one still works.
Also had the ‘03 WRF 450 forks turn up. Much much better condition then the ones I have already. On first impressions they feel noticeably lighter then the ‘02 YZ forks. I like them. Only a couple minor scuffs around the clamping area too, something a lot of USD forks seem to suffer from.
A bonus is that the fork also has the same fork sticker as I was going to buy tooOne issue though is I bought these forks as they where l quote “lightly pitted”. I imagined some wire would and autosol would’ve done the trick
I swear 3 things are guaranteed in life
- as there must be life there must also be death
- what goes up most definitely must come down
- Parts from eBay not being as described
The right stanchion is actually in good condition with only a few tiny little pits like described on eBay meanwhile the right stanchion isn’t the best.
Here’s the right stanchion
And the left one too
Leaky and pitted, nothing terrible but a far cry from what was described and even further from what I expected.
Anyone know any little fixes?I’ve got my ‘02 YZ forks which are basically spares/repair and I think the 02-03 use the same left stanchion. It might be as simple as just stealing the stanchion from the YZ fork if they’re in good condition.
In other news...
I had a really nice stroke of luck that’s left me being able to afford something that all of you guys from day 1 have all said are one the best things you’ll ever do for your bikea custom mappable ignition!
Whoop! Whoop!So I shot the illustrious yet elusive Jiri over at link text
Email: ignitech@ignitech.cz
(I also recommended that he change where his email is placed on his website or at least the colour as blue on blue at very bottom of the page isn’t exactly the clearest and probably why so a few people have got confused on how to contact them.)
I always start my emails with a hello and a good day, does anyone else do this? Kindness is a courtesy that costs nothing. Ignitech also recommend you give part number for your CDI and as most of you guys know that’s just not as easy as that when you own a DT.
Jiri was very helpful, only issue is me owning a earlier model limits to how much Ignitech can do for me.Ignitechs units don’t allow you to program powervalve openings unless you have a later 5-wire servo, pretty crap when your bikes a 1998 and for the added expense of a servo you could just as well buy a Zeeltronic...
Before I move on though I’d really like to praise Ignitech for their help, reply time and information. Contrary to what I’d seen
If you have a later model bike with 5 wire servo definitely give them a message. Yes the Ignitech doesn’t have all of the features of the Zeeltronic but at only £162.33 (with everything rounded up as well) for absolutely everything you can’t go wrong. As they say “it does what it says on the tin” and in this case without breaking the bank.But how’s about a Zeeltronic though
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Slowly... Slowly... Slowly...
But surely, we’re getting there.
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I treated myself.
This another where I just simply thought I’d never got around to buying and I’d never afford.
Any guesses what it is?
All the way from Indianapolis -
@stevie-wonder Reeds?
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@nottsbiker
I wonder what gave it away
The quality is beyond anything I expected, they’re simply beautiful. -
3 steps forwards and 5 steps backSpent some early mornings and afternoons down the workshop with my uncle down the workshop and got the ‘03 WR450 forks and the yolks. A quick bit of masking tape over the vin plate to spray the bearing cup and Voila, she’s a honey. All I needed was to chuck all the right spacers and crown nut and then she was set. Apico stem nut is a nice little touch too
She’s now resting on her weight for the first time in 7/8 months now. Crazy.
Although getting to see this makes it worth it.
I rarely say this about my bike but woah.
It likes 100x better then I imagined + the suspensions noticeable so much nicer. Super super stoked.Except as ever there’s an issue..
I fucked up during one of my many late CMSNL part compatibility binges that I guess you could also call research. I was trying to see what the latest year forks I could run with my ‘02 YZ yolks.
At the same time I was also trying to make sure the set of forks on eBay I wanted where as describe and the correct year. I ended up getting the bits for the 03 forks I was comparing and 02 muddled up. What a twonk.I planned to ditch the YZ wheel for a WR one at some point anyway. Remember before I said about trying to use the WR’s odometer and modding it to hopefully work with the DTR’s clocks.
I still need a new bracket caliper though as 03 forks can only run 03-04 callipers.
In a strange twist of fate it also turned out that the caliper that came with my forks wasn’t even right anyway, when it came to fitting it the bolt holes where about 5-10mm out. I believe it to be an 05.
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I’ve now got to get
1 02-04 WR wheel
1 03-04 Brake Caliper
1 Brake hose.For the wheel scenario ideally I’d like to find a decent condition ‘02 426 wheel and have matching excels like I do with the YZ rim. Only issue 2002 was the first and only year the four stokes would receive them, from then on only the 125’s got them.
Although that’s the last of my issues as I’m struggling to find a decent wheel of any type in the first place. They’re all 05 onwards or in America.
My solution? Buy an ‘05 and put an ‘04 axle in it.
See the hub is the same from 02-19. Axle 98-04. Bearings 03-16 and just about everything else matches up so fingers crossed this fixes that.The brake caliper is just annoying. It’s hard finding one that be in good condition for sensible money / not in the states. It’s gotta be done though.
Brake hose is a broke hose. I’m just gonna buy one second hand for now depending on how much money I’ve got snd my urge to get my bike closer to having an MOT.
I did notice though that the YZ’s and WR’s brake hoses have different part numbers and I just wondered why? They use the same lower legs and the hose routes under snd over the fork leg the same?
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Not sure if the dogs that interested
Sorted out a brake Caliper. £50 for one like new only drawback is the 2 week wait for it to come from America however at this point I’ve just accepted that a 2 week wait isn’t even that bad. It gives me time to do everything else.
WRF wheel, axle and odometer ordered as well, going to be looking into making a mod for it to work with DTR clocks. I’m praying I get lucky and they just work with each other without any modifications but that’s just being a bit too optimistic.
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with the Forks well and truly firmly planted on the bike everything else can get done.
Slowly but surely everything’s coming together.
Been spending every bit of free time inbetween university and trying to make a buck going down the workshop with my uncle to get shit done.Decided to ditch the HPires fender and go OEM but with a tail tidy, much to my uncles and Ryan’s distaste who both said it looked tacky... which to be fair I do agree with considering I’ve got the OEM tail piece that suits the bike really well. I’d rather clean that back end up though and out the original one in the loft to preserve it for the future.
As I’m doing a tail tidy I’m going to weld a bar / tray to rear of the frame so I can have my tail tidy without three ugly protruding bolts in the fender and to also give a bit of protection against mud + make cleaning easier.
I’ve got to say it’s been a blast too! It’s been proper ideal whilst I’ve been studying at home to give myself something else to focus on and not have to think about being trapped in doors so much.
I had a weird stroke of luck too and the ‘05 axle worked perfect with the ‘03 450 forks leaving me with a spare front axle and odometer.... could be useful for the future so I’ll keep it.
Ryan’s cleaning 22 years worth of gunk and corrosion out my ignition barrel. It looked like an ancient battery inside there. My uncle in the meantime is welding brackets for the 3ET headlight. Also when I say welding I mean we chopped the original headlight mount and modified it to work with the YZ 125 yolks and 3ET headlight.
(I’ll grab photos when I’m next down the workshop to show)One of the issues with mounting everything is the YZ 125 yolks only have tabs for a number board so they’re not the most structurally secure thing to go mount clocks and a headlight too especially on an off-road bike.
My uncle had the brilliant idea of creating a central bar for the clocks and then two support columns made of steel to weld the pre-existing yet now modified DTR light bracketTrying to get the fitment perfect was a little bit tricky as the clocks on the DT protrude like a fat blokes belly after a carvery. However as chance would have it I spoke to a dude with an original 3ET who gave me a pretty good idea of the fitment for it on a standard bike
As luck would have it we wasn’t far off
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First start in 9 months.
I had to give her a bit of a tickle to work but straight after she jumped to life and run like a champ
Headlight brackets/ignition
The 200R’s headlight design has left a bit of dead space. I wonder what I could put there.The columns/frame for the front headlight and everything
Big issue is the Rev cable now doesn’t reach.Tail tidy
Welded tabs across the rear part of the frame to attach it too so you don’t have no disgusting tabs through your fender.Nice new Doppler master cylinder cover.
I still have an old one from Devol I could use but I wasn’t 100% sure if I was keen on it personally. I’ll try grab a photo of it at some point.Fast forward two days and we’re back in the workshop
*This is where we’re at currently *
I love the way she sits, bloody lofty though mind you
This is it against a XJ600 and against a bloke that’s 5’ 11
(Quite a nice bum too don’t ya think )She runs like a trooper. Just gotta run a compression test and see how that top ends doing / how much life she’s got left in her. Maybe she’ll be good and last through the summer? We’ll see.
Just gotta Chuck the front brake caliper on her (when it arrives), do the speedo + Rev cables as ones to short and the other I just don’t know wether it’ll work and might have to be made. Then it’s MOT + Riding time!I’ve still got the 200wr swinger and some plans for a rear shock but their going to have to go on the back burner just for a little while
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Hahahaha for fucks sake. True story though.
Function over form 100%.Realistically there’s not a nice way of getting that headlight to work with those clocks. Every way way we tried left the headlight either too high and looking like something from Easy Rider or to low and in the correct space but completely exposing the clocks or having them awkward above. Flattening the clocks rather then angling them towards you just pushes the 200r light so far away that it no longer matches the flat silhouette and looks weird.
The space isn’t bad but honestly it’s just the best of both worlds and the best bit is it’s functional (aside from most of the cables barely reaching / not at all)
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Fun fact every time I’ve took this bike for an mot it’s lost it’s plate. This year I used metal anodised fairing bolts and still it went missing. Ghosts mate.
Chanced the mot on the basis of being able to ride it home legally afterwards and that there’s a 10 day free retest period - I can’t believe I never knew this!^failed on front wheel bearing failure, front and rear pads being too far gone (i later f found the rear with probably less then 0.5mm of pad left ) and chain was too tight.
Here’s it the second time around. I never got a picture of it the second time, she just passed with flying colours and on my way I went. On the road at last.
Only notice something? I switched pipes and wow. Fuck me sideways - the heavens have opened.Whilst my bike was off the road I’d done a lot of thinking.
I couldn’t quite figure out why even though I didn’t rejet the plugs always came out perfect whilst using the dep yet I always used to get the worst throttle chop at high rpm’s or under sudden load sometimes. You’d be full throttle screaming and then it’s like the throttle would cut out mid way then come on after and then only get worse.
After solving all other potential causes I thought it might even be my rings are giving up.What do I think? I think it made me think a lot of other things where wrong with my bike which weren’t and that I’m probably going to avoid that dep pipe.
The DEP is nice but honestly the difference is amazing. No more throttle chop just strong power on tap everywhere.
My bike felt so good I ended up go for a test ride and ended up in the neighbouring town even though it was raining snd I had no goggles or nothing just a coat .Happy days. All nice and ready for fun times ahead.
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@stevie-wonder The other nice thing about the DEP is the weight difference.
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It’s nice when you finally get it running proper after chasing gremlins
You got access to a borescope or the like? There has to be some hard deposit of carbon in there somewhere. How long the dep been running on there, also did it always chop?...That mot, legal feeling is a good high!
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@calum said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
@stevie-wonder The other nice thing about the DEP is the weight difference.
My personal favourite feature is itself lightening feature. 3,000 good U.K. miles and the metal will be half the thickness
Honestly though I always said the same thing but the standard pipe has a much wider power spread and even better puts that power where the DT needs it most.
With that being said I ride some pretty private locations and the lesser amount of noise only allows me to ride for longer / not piss others off. Bit of bonus.
Much better thermal properties to flow gasses too due to the extra thickness + the durability of the standard people would outweigh 10 dep pipes.I literally dropped the dep taking it off once and dented it. Pretty shambolic if you ask me. Shame. I always thought I’d massively support dep being a historic and British company.
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@spookdog said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
It’s nice when you finally get it running proper after chasing gremlins
You got access to a borescope or the like? There has to be some hard deposit of carbon in there somewhere. How long the dep been running on there, also did it always chop?...That mot, legal feeling is a good high!
No bore scope just fingers for feelers and eyes for seeing. No fancy stuff around here (at least until I invest in one which no doubt I will all in good time, big believer in that investing in tools is investing in yourself/they pay for themselves).
I’m still going to be scratching my head for a while as to why the dep didn’t work well for my bike. The only thing that I really can imagine is that the CDI map and powervalve openings is way of for the power curve of the dep pipe. However even then that wouldn’t cause the throttle chop I experienced. If you was full throttle in a long gear you’d often hear a rather nasty metallic ping as the throttle suddenly slammed off then on. Gross.
Also yes legal is so good!
I owe all of you a thank you in your hands in making it possible. It’s very surreal to see what I imagined come to life. It’s even better riding it and feeling just how much nicer the bike is for it.
However to be completely honest after leaving her in such a sorry state for 9 months I’m just genuinely happy to know she’s running and that I won’t ever have to do that again. -
@stevie-wonder said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
Fun fact every time I’ve took this bike for an mot it’s lost it’s plate. This year I used metal anodised fairing bolts and still it went missing. Ghosts mate.
If you point your number plate at police helicopters and UFO’s, it’s bound to be abducted now and again ...