So Close!...
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Bearing puller set arrived today. £25 for 14 piece set which also has two ‘leg’ puller attachments (pun intended) that some kits don’t…
Nice & painless as I like it! Removed the bearing in 5 mins with no marking the crank at all. Wish I’d known about these before, back when two very large flathead screwdrivers were my ‘modus operandi’
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I’m celebrating my head not being blown in a very decent amount of time
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A year, long time for me keeping my head together
…My back tyre seems to develop an ‘edge’ after a few thousand miles. Or a while, I haven’t been keeping track of mileage so much since my head stopped blowing…
The centre seems to develop a flat spot because most miles are covered upright. When I go to lean, once you leave the flat bit, there’s an edge that is not very stable feeling, it kind of shimmys before it bites. Anyone else experienced this with knobbly tyres? It’s like all of a sudden you’re on a knife edge! It doesn’t help that the tread there is deep and ‘flexy’…
It’s gotten to the point where I’m thinking of ‘adventure bike’ type ‘trail’ tyres. I can’t remember the last time I went off tarmac. I refuse to put 100% road tyres on tho’
Any recommendations for good, decent wearing tyres?…Or should I just get out the angle grinder? Or learn to doughnut!
️PS: @HOTSHOT-III
Do you still have the dtr wheel set for sale?… -
My back tyre seems to develop an ‘edge’ after a few thousand miles. Or a while, I haven’t been keeping track of mileage so much since my head stopped blowing…
The centre seems to develop a flat spot because most miles are covered upright. When I go to lean, once you leave the flat bit, there’s an edge that is not very stable feeling, it kind of shimmys before it bites. Anyone else experienced this with knobbly tyres? It’s like all of a sudden you’re on a knife edge! It doesn’t help that the tread there is deep and ‘flexy’…
It’s gotten to the point where I’m thinking of ‘adventure bike’ type ‘trail’ tyres. I can’t remember the last time I went off tarmac. I refuse to put 100% road tyres on tho’
Any recommendations for good, decent wearing tyres?…Or should I just get out the angle grinder? Or learn to doughnut!
️PS: @HOTSHOT-III
Do you still have the dtr wheel set for sale?…@SpookDog Yes bud, wheelset is still available:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266386635256
Avon TrailRiders are excellent tyres and all I ever used on all my DTRs. They're roughly 85% road/15% dirt so very sticky and fast rolling on tarmac but still good for gentle off-roading when it's bone dry.
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Yes, the edge knobs are a bit flexible sideways, and if you are leaning over you are putting more than 1g force on them, so it makes sense that stability suffers. Increasing tyre pressure mitigates it somewhat.
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Yes, the edge knobs are a bit flexible sideways, and if you are leaning over you are putting more than 1g force on them, so it makes sense that stability suffers. Increasing tyre pressure mitigates it somewhat.
Doesn’t help that they are now twice the depth of the centre tread.
I need to find a safe bit of tarmac somewhere that I can practice doughnuts. Last time I tried it was a Vespa p200 with a sidecar and an off duty PC reported me for reckless driving
It was in a ‘off hours’ dead end car park by the river. So I’m a bit more cautious now…
I don’t think that the angle grinder will be uniform enough though
…Apparently Some manufacturers are using different hardness ‘bands’ in their tyres…
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Vespa with a sidecar doing donuts? ROFL
The rear tyre on my CBR resembled a baker's rolling pin more than anything.
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Vespa with a sidecar doing donuts? ROFL
The rear tyre on my CBR resembled a baker's rolling pin more than anything.
??? It’s real fuxin easy as long as you don’t try and turn left while you’re doing it, work it out
…Depending on which way the pin is facing. I don’t know if that’s bad or not…
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Rear brake stopped biting today. I had noticed it had been fading over the last few rides. It turns out that the piston is pitted at a point where it was left standing for a long while sometime in its past. Don’t have any money to replace the piston and seals at the moment, so I’m gonna have to drill & fill the pits to squeeze a few more thousand miles out of it
…I would like to fit a 35mm front calliper on the rear. I have one ready to go but I had to buy a 14mm master to match it. Accidentally, I broke off the plastic fitting that the reservoir tube fits on to. Once I have the pennies for that I’ll get on with this long overdue upgrade. My rear brake makes up well over 50% of my braking, so it’s needed…
I have some ideas for a front disc upgrade, but I need to find someone who has access to ‘water cut’ a disc centre that matches a Dtr hub to a suitable sized ‘floating disc’ outer…
Edit: reservoir tube in post…
Need to test charging coil output to see why the bike is eating batteries. If output is good from coil replace regulator (long overdue) with used part… -
Rear brake stopped biting today. I had noticed it had been fading over the last few rides. It turns out that the piston is pitted at a point where it was left standing for a long while sometime in its past. Don’t have any money to replace the piston and seals at the moment, so I’m gonna have to drill & fill the pits to squeeze a few more thousand miles out of it
…I would like to fit a 35mm front calliper on the rear. I have one ready to go but I had to buy a 14mm master to match it. Accidentally, I broke off the plastic fitting that the reservoir tube fits on to. Once I have the pennies for that I’ll get on with this long overdue upgrade. My rear brake makes up well over 50% of my braking, so it’s needed…
I have some ideas for a front disc upgrade, but I need to find someone who has access to ‘water cut’ a disc centre that matches a Dtr hub to a suitable sized ‘floating disc’ outer…
Edit: reservoir tube in post…
Need to test charging coil output to see why the bike is eating batteries. If output is good from coil replace regulator (long overdue) with used part…Rear master to reservoir outlet turned up today, at last! Strangely enough the 1/2 master has ‘settled in’ and is providing enough fluid to the 35mm front calliper that I’ve fitted to the back. Go figure!…
Had to clean out the carb again today, namely water globlet in the pilot jet as usual. I don’t understand why I suffer from this so often. New petrol cap time, maybe?…
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Rear master to reservoir outlet turned up today, at last! Strangely enough the 1/2 master has ‘settled in’ and is providing enough fluid to the 35mm front calliper that I’ve fitted to the back. Go figure!…
Had to clean out the carb again today, namely water globlet in the pilot jet as usual. I don’t understand why I suffer from this so often. New petrol cap time, maybe?…
@SpookDog cover the gas tank cap with electical tape, I did that as soon as I got my bike, the keyhole can leak. It's not likely someone will try to steal your gas and it's inconvenient to lock and unlock the tank every time you need to fill it up which happens too often with this thing for some reason
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Rear master to reservoir outlet turned up today, at last! Strangely enough the 1/2 master has ‘settled in’ and is providing enough fluid to the 35mm front calliper that I’ve fitted to the back. Go figure!…
Had to clean out the carb again today, namely water globlet in the pilot jet as usual. I don’t understand why I suffer from this so often. New petrol cap time, maybe?…
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I must admit, I have really changed my tune with the 170 kit.
What I would say is, make sure the powervalve is ported flush. Genuinly mine protruded the exhaust port stock. So benefits from modding the valve even if you leave the exhaust port alone.
I think the DTR is a better choice for the 170. Just because you're more likely to be utilising the benefit from the bottom end more due to the nature of the bike.
TZR is more of an open stretch bike where you'll want more HP up the top end.
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Sorry for tardy reply, yes it is £155 posted.
Are all 170 Athenas fitted with an o-ring head? Or are some fitted with a gasket?…
Yeah, it’s going to live on the Dtr…
