So Close!...
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I know what you’re saying, in most cases there are markings. Though I think they’re usually maker specific. Not noticed any on small end bearings, though never purposely looked for them…
What is SFK short for ?…
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I’ve just found a place near me that does TiG welding on cast aluminium casings! So I can go ahead and get my early 600&something numbered engine case lug welded! I’ve got new main bearings on the way! I’ve just got to replace the oil seals I used on the Tzr lump, as well as an Athena head gasket.
I did want to wait until the Tzr was rideable so I could get the Dtr frame stripped, dipped & coated. It’s going to take me longer than I thought though, and I’m not sure how long the engine is going to last! It was only a lashed together mismatch of parts supposed to get me to the next rebore! But the suspect conrod put paid to just doing a top end rebuild…
Also found a vapour blasting place local as well, shiny casings!!
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Hmmm! Got a good winter hours snaggle, my headlight ‘stops’ when I turn the bars to a certain angle. It doesn’t affect when normal riding, just when manoeuvring back & forth, left to right and the like. So I never really noticed it before…
Not so handy when it’s getting darker by the day! 🫤 … -
Red & yellow stripe feed wire to the headlight was just kinda ‘smooshed’ up into place at one of the idiot proof connectors. How it was still working is a mystery to me. No wonder my headlight dimmed when I put on the brakes!…
Other thing was a red wire at another connector was doing the same business! It was basically responsible for all the battery operated shizness! It’s another wonder that the PV cycled when I turned the key on! The wire fell off when I removed the headlight (along with the red/yellow stripe wire) stopping the PV from cycling, the brake light, indicators, horn, ect, from working!
Basically both my AC & DC circuits were running by a hair! (Or gravity!!) Thank fux the ignition curcuit is sound! I hope!!
…At least now I’ve bodged it the lights and horn ect are bright and truer than they’ve ever been. For now until the test ride anyways
…Till next time…
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@Calum Thanks bud, I wondered what happened to that post, just seen you've been fixing the forum all day
@SpookDog Here are some cable routing schematics from the Yamaha repair manual, the wiring behind the headlight is a bit of a rat's nest like most trail bikes but this should help you out. Also considering the time of year and the weather we've been having, it's well worth giving the wiring behind the headlight (and under the tank) a thorough blast with WD40 . Throw old towels or dust sheets over both wheels to protect the tyres and brakes, then apply in the manner displayed by the gentleman in the final image. You can also fill up the handlebar switches until it flows out of every orifice, it's a harsh environment for a switch but by doing this regularly you can make the switches last the life of the bike
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We walk the Earth, like Jolly Green Giants! But with Guns!!…
Stay Frosty!…
Did a test ride: Lights are good! Even the engine is crisper since the PV seems to be kicking in properly!…
I could of done with routing pics years ago, but they be always welcome
…Cheers!…
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Is that manual available online? Or do you own the book? I didn’t know that there was an official workshop manual for the Dtr…
PS you still got the wheels for sale?…
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@SpookDog Here you go bud, it was the official dealer manual in 1988:
Obviously you have to be a bit careful because all the engine specs are for the 3DB round slide carb model but the cycle parts are essentially the same on all DTRs right up to 2003. Lots for sale online though, I was able to find an '89 3MB DTRe version with a full colour wiring diagram for about £20 I think.
And some of the torque settings are frankly ludicrous; for example 20Nm for the disc bolts is off the scale for M6. I destruction tested an old rear one using a spanner in the vice and the 4mm allen head rounded at 16Nm so I did mine on the bike to 12 rear and 14 front and they never moved. However it does show it's wise to invest in genuine bolts or their equivalent for anything structural as a stainless Xmas tree decoration bolt would probably fail at around half that.
Wheels sold a couple of weeks ago I'm afraid, maybe talk to Salisbury Wheel Builders in Ringwood?
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I’m glad you sold the wheels, I was only gonna offer £300
. …If you see an official dealer manual for sale, please drop me a link! I always look for one when I get a vehicle I’m gonna cherish.
(the 1970’s FG500 one I got looked like an encyclopaedia Britannia!)
Only seen ‘service’ manuals for the DTr though. I’d love to know if there’s one for the 95> Tzr’s as well!… -
Cheers bud! Got the pin today, along with the main bearings I’ve been waiting on forever
…WTF happened to the motor that pic of a piston came out of?! That’s one of the most catastrophic seizures I’ve ever seen! Was it 2T oil or heat? I’m guessing it’s oil related!
Tho it got pretty damn hot by the looks…————————————————-
I found a pair of casings I’d forgot about that are less knocked up than the early number ones I was planning on using. It means I can go ahead earlier with my build. Just got to get oil seals and a blaster little end bearing, along with a 170 head gasket from PJME when I get some monies on Wednesday!
Maybe some new tyres for the salty season.Any recommendations for ‘adventure’ tyres? I don’t want road tires but I haven’t been off road in so long I can’t remember. Even then it was dry so the knobblies are kinda like me, redundant
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@SpookDog Avon TrailRiders in the recommended sizes work very well on the DTR, they're kind of 90% road, 10% dirt; very grippy on tarmac when you run standard pressures 18psi front/22psi rear but just blocky enough to be acceptable off road:
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They have any kinda decent lifespan? I’ve been burnt before with tyres that only lasted 12weeks! Less than 7K miles!…
I seem to remember Bridgestone tyre’s having multi density rubber , harder wearing on the centre, mid on the mid and soft on the edges. Helped them maintain their profile throughout the lifespan of the tyre, as well as grip through cornering. Can’t remember which marque they were tho’…
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@SpookDog I think they were Bridgestone Battlaxes which were fitted to the original Honda FireBlade when it came out in '92 (best looking of all the FireBlades IMO; the two round headlights made it look like the GSX-R of the day pumped up on steroids), IIRC they called it SACT (Straight and Cornering Technology). I don't know of any DTR-sized tyre which has dual compound.
TrailRiders are no touring tyre but they last pretty well and are a vast improvement over most so-called "dual purpose" tyres which tend to be a bit crap on both dirt and tarmac as it's too much of a compromise. Tyres are a huge part of your setup equation so it's worth accepting a little extra wear if it transforms the bike. I was able to get a deal from an online tyre company by ordering a front and two rears as the rear wears a lot quicker on bikes. This is sensible anyway as bikes are sensitive to mismatched tyres (particularly road-biased tyres) so if you can't get the correct rear when it wears out, you've effectively wasted around half the life of the front tyre.
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Cheers bud, that’s worth thinking about. I don’t mind paying up for quality, just not bling!…
Twin round lights have got to be the best looking fairing setup of all time. No amount of ‘fox’ or ‘hawk’ eyes is gonna change that. I’ve always preferred it on cars as well. Mk3 cortina’s or any old capri
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@SpookDog Avon recommend 80/90 21" front and 110/80 18" rear on the DTR; pretty close to the OEM sizes of 2.75" front and 4.10" rear. If you take a look at the Avon DT125R webpage the recommended rim sizes for these are 1.85" front and 2.50" rear; bigger than the stock DTR rims (1.60" front and 1.85" rear). I had a chat with Avon over the phone about this before getting my 1st set and they told me Yamaha confuse tyre manufacturers with oddball rim sizes quite a lot. I had TrailRiders in these sizes on 2 of my 3 DTRs at one time and it never caused an issue.
Definitely the Ford Capri
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