So Close!...
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Don’t worry! I’ve found it 2 minutes later!
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If the rain holds off for the next day or two: I should be able to fit the seals and button up the clutch side. I’ve already prepped it with a hot detergent wash and ‘scrub/brush’ it’s just degrease assemble and fit. Same with the barrel and piston. I’ve already decoked the piston and PV and barrel-exhaust port…
I haven’t found suitable bolts for the reed cage and inlet yet. I won’t fit the top end till that’s fitted and plugged with clean cotton waste…
One good day or two ‘meh!’ days and I’m ready to give the bike a few soaks with shampoo detergent before getting a final jet wash. Then I can swap out the motors while fitting a new (used) rear shock…
I still haven’t finished fitting the bottom headstock bearing to the replacement yoke! It got stuck halfway and I didn’t want to force it ‘unreasonabley’
I can’t throw anymore heat at it because it’s got a built in oil seal! So, because I don’t know anyone with an hydraulic press, I need to find a suitable sized tube to ‘beat it on squarely’ 
I’d kinda gotten used to the ‘clicky’ front end because it tracked truly, unlike before when it used to favour a few degrees to the left or right ‘Unsafe at any speed over 40’ springs to mind!… -
Any tips on fitting the Athena head? Is the inner cap supposed to be a tight or a loose fit? It took a bit of heat to separate it from the outer head-cap. I’d imagine that it’s a ‘good’ fit that is held in place by the rubber seal around the spark plug section?
Be nice to know tho! … -
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@SpookDog No? I just put them in so that the text was facing upwards and that the ring end gaps met the dowels in the piston grooves.
Wossner are notorious for leaving one of the ring end gaps out of spec, gives the fitter flexibility to dial it in. The Athena ones I done recently were both spot on, but needless to say, you should check it against the spec.
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Chuck is a term of affection from me!
Seriously! All new bearings and seals throughout, new Jamasil crank. I can’t afford to be ‘blasé’ 
I even removed, cleaned the threads, greased and re-inserted the barrel base studs and dowels to a tightness that they’re removable in the future, if needs be. The head studs I always remove and service…Labour of Dove
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It’s getting there! Little by little, weather permitting…
WTFux! it’s just started raining! 🤪 …
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The umbrella?
…Blaster 200 small end bearing didn’t fit. Was too wide to fit inside the piston. Luckily I had a dtr bearing that has wider roller/needles than the others I’ve got. Even with a bit of side to side play it still has good coverage of the conrods top eye width…
PS I just noticed that the Athena top end gasket set doesn’t include the orange PV bush seal! For nearly £50 you’d think they’d include it?!…
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Ready to drop in. All torqued and tight! Only the 2T pump left to fettle, I’ve got 3 to find the bestest one. I can finish off the tank of premix anyways
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Just gonna replace the rear shock while the swingarm bolt is out. It doesn’t feel broken but it was crusty 30,000 miles ago. So, yeah! There is that…
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
The umbrella?
…Blaster 200 small end bearing didn’t fit. Was too wide to fit inside the piston. Luckily I had a dtr bearing that has wider roller/needles than the others I’ve got. Even with a bit of side to side play it still has good coverage of the conrods top eye width…
PS I just noticed that the Athena top end gasket set doesn’t include the orange PV bush seal! For nearly £50 you’d think they’d include it?!…
To fit the small end bearing from the Blaster you need to file each side inside of the piston 0,5mm. To be on the safe side I removed 0,75mm from each side for when everything heats and diolates.
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Fux! I wish I’d known that before I buttoned it all up!
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I’ve been on a bit of a tight deadline with it, weather wise. Not to mention the strange noises I’ve been ignoring coming from my existing engine. I can’t wait to do an autopsy on it!… -
A little tip for people like me who have to ‘apply’ bearings with a hammer and ‘drift’
Use a jubilee clip to hold in place whatever tool you are using, in my case a screwdriver…
Make sure it’s clear of the bearing, especially the race. It allows more of the force to be applied downwards, without worrying so much about slipping and destroying the roller~race. It makes the blows less ‘tentative’, more effective. It really makes a difference…
If you have a suitable tube then ignore me!
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I just bought the stearing stem bearing tool.
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Then ignore me!
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Just found this while looking for some connector blocks and trying to find the proper gauge/amp wire:
At least that was my experience.
