So Close!...
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@SpookDog It's not about money, it's the act of having to keep going there. You should have seen the state of my bike when I got it back from them last time. UTTER MONKEYS! Dangerous it was to ride home. And the response "Yeah it would be!" It was fucking sound when I gave it to you 'ya cunts!
Anyway, fuming to say the least. And dude! I live a VERY cheap life. Don't smoke, don't drink, don't do drugs (like my coffee), don't drive, don't ride my motorbikes (I cycle/run everywhere). I don't go on holiday and I eat baked beans most evenings, not literally but the cheaper the better. What's the result, a few shiny bolts come pay day. If you examine any photo I take of my bikes, they're usually in the same spots. So I pinch every penny for my addiction.
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Woah there Tiger! I didn’t mean to hit a nerve! Honest!
️ peace!…I’m getting there! I hate working in the damp though! Everything is filthy. I’ve had to scrub up my hands four times already!…
PS RE frames are different aren’t they?…
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@SpookDog They decided that the rear wheel wasn't centralised in the swinging arm on my DT, so they fabricated a new rear wheel spacer. This threw the alignment out and when they realised that it would need the front wheel spacers machining, then a new bracket for the caliper being made, they gave up and gave the bike back. It was completely unrideable. Anything over 30mph caused the bike to swerve uncontrollably. I had to ride it back 10 miles below 30MPH. I got it home and the chain had zero slack in whatsoever. I was lucky the rear bearing didn't collapse.
The rear wheel wasn't centralised in the rear arm, true, but it was inline with the front wheel and the front and rear sprockets were aligned. The wheel being central to the swinging arm is irrelevant. The bikes been in this configuration for 10+ years. I threw my original spacers back on and got an MOT else where. They charged me over £100 for the "Privilege". Needless to say, I'm sour about the whole experience. I've been going there years, albeit they've never touched any of my bikes.
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I decided to check out the expansion tank overflow, that vents into the left side of the frame.
The black shniz and a load of water/coolant came out. It’s still spewing out steam when I heat it!
It’s obvious it’s blocked up at some time, but I dread to think of the damage that could happen over time! It goes right down to the 1&1/2 inch main tube that ties the frame together…There’s no way I’m using the fuxin frame as an overflow again! 18 inches of rubber pipe will be my next ‘upgrade’!
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It’s not supposed to be pretty, though it’s be nice if it was!
It just has to get me through this salt season until I can get it blasted, galvanised and coated properly, along with the rest of it!…
I’ve got 2 cans of smoothrite, wish me luck, please!…
I hope this dry spell lasts…
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@SpookDog This looks to be coming on well, shame the weather isn't good enough for painting but Lidl spray paint is exactly the same as Smoothrite (but cheaper) so once all the festive tat is sold, they might have some in by the time you can get the spraying done.
Good time to Seal-All the carb-to-airbox rubber in the meantime; usually the rear shock has to come out to remove the airbox and you won't want to wrestle with it too much once the frame is painted. The rubber is downstream of the air filter and Yamaha made a poor job of sealing them at the factory so potentially your engine can suck dirt if this hasn't been done.
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I understand where you’re coming from but personally, I like to have it removable. It just makes it easier for the times I do get around to cleaning it all up. Mine gets filthy even with good filters properly maintained! (Tho obviously not frequently enough!) the little crimped tube helps with flushing out though…
I did manage to get a last coat of etch primer on after the rain stopped! I forgot about Lidles paint! Hammerite smoothrite can be so very expensive! …
Tomorrow is sposed’ to be dry
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@SpookDog Your frame is in little better condition than mine was on the project DTZr thread.I used paint remover for the paint,acid for rust removal even inside of some of the tubes where was possible very good soap water cleaning.
Immediately drying in the sun and torch heat for the insides.
Using a big syringe I poured rust converter in every tube was possible until was running from the venting holes
After drying did the same with cold zinc paint for rust protection.
Wire wheel on all the frame,cold zinc paint then black paint.
Also had to repair drill holes at the back of the frame,broken bolts,damaged threads and straighten the frame where the back sub frame/rack attaches.And this was a good frame,2 other DT's I saw before buying were raped literally.
Here the DT's were used for serious off roading even competition,races and a lot of bad 2 stroke tuners that literally killed the DT's like flies.
I wish I had condition like most of you buy.