So Close!...
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I actually believe that 2T’s are ‘rider sensitive’. Other people can upset the whole… vibe, for want of a less hippy word…
Did they work on it at all? Or just manhandle it
…@SpookDog They decided that the rear wheel wasn't centralised in the swinging arm on my DT, so they fabricated a new rear wheel spacer. This threw the alignment out and when they realised that it would need the front wheel spacers machining, then a new bracket for the caliper being made, they gave up and gave the bike back. It was completely unrideable. Anything over 30mph caused the bike to swerve uncontrollably. I had to ride it back 10 miles below 30MPH. I got it home and the chain had zero slack in whatsoever. I was lucky the rear bearing didn't collapse.
The rear wheel wasn't centralised in the rear arm, true, but it was inline with the front wheel and the front and rear sprockets were aligned. The wheel being central to the swinging arm is irrelevant. The bikes been in this configuration for 10+ years. I threw my original spacers back on and got an MOT else where. They charged me over £100 for the "Privilege". Needless to say, I'm sour about the whole experience. I've been going there years, albeit they've never touched any of my bikes.
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@SpookDog They decided that the rear wheel wasn't centralised in the swinging arm on my DT, so they fabricated a new rear wheel spacer. This threw the alignment out and when they realised that it would need the front wheel spacers machining, then a new bracket for the caliper being made, they gave up and gave the bike back. It was completely unrideable. Anything over 30mph caused the bike to swerve uncontrollably. I had to ride it back 10 miles below 30MPH. I got it home and the chain had zero slack in whatsoever. I was lucky the rear bearing didn't collapse.
The rear wheel wasn't centralised in the rear arm, true, but it was inline with the front wheel and the front and rear sprockets were aligned. The wheel being central to the swinging arm is irrelevant. The bikes been in this configuration for 10+ years. I threw my original spacers back on and got an MOT else where. They charged me over £100 for the "Privilege". Needless to say, I'm sour about the whole experience. I've been going there years, albeit they've never touched any of my bikes.
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That is so very fuxed up
Swingarms are never symmetrical! They always ‘favour’ the sprocket…
I can’t believe they had the front to charge you!!… -
I decided to check out the expansion tank overflow, that vents into the left side of the frame.
The black shniz and a load of water/coolant came out. It’s still spewing out steam when I heat it!
It’s obvious it’s blocked up at some time, but I dread to think of the damage that could happen over time! It goes right down to the 1&1/2 inch main tube that ties the frame together…There’s no way I’m using the fuxin frame as an overflow again! 18 inches of rubber pipe will be my next ‘upgrade’!
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I found the DTR frame to be of a high quality steel and it was very resistant to rot.
My ETX frame on the other hand...Aprilia are usually shit hot when it comes to the quality of their metal, but my frame is in a really bad state!
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It is good steel, even the worst looking just powered off with a grinder& wire wheel…
It’s not supposed to be pretty, though it’s be nice if it was!
It just has to get me through this salt season until I can get it blasted, galvanised and coated properly, along with the rest of it!…
I’ve got 2 cans of smoothrite, wish me luck, please!…
I hope this dry spell lasts…
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I think it all depends what coolant you use aswell for rot on the frame where it goes through, but hey I use to me scared of rust, now I can weld it don’t bother me at all lol
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Man! I wish I had a little TiG set, or even a oxy/acet torch! I’ve seen clips of a geezer torch welding aluminium sheet into a petrol tank for a chop! Bit beyond my Ken tho
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Weather too wet for spraying. So cleaning and repairing (rear wheel flap bolt holes!) air box and number plate holder body plastics and crap…
Got me to thinking: what carb does the dt200r use? Is the air box different?…
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Weather too wet for spraying. So cleaning and repairing (rear wheel flap bolt holes!) air box and number plate holder body plastics and crap…
Got me to thinking: what carb does the dt200r use? Is the air box different?…
@SpookDog This looks to be coming on well, shame the weather isn't good enough for painting but Lidl spray paint is exactly the same as Smoothrite (but cheaper) so once all the festive tat is sold, they might have some in by the time you can get the spraying done.
Good time to Seal-All the carb-to-airbox rubber in the meantime; usually the rear shock has to come out to remove the airbox and you won't want to wrestle with it too much once the frame is painted. The rubber is downstream of the air filter and Yamaha made a poor job of sealing them at the factory so potentially your engine can suck dirt if this hasn't been done.
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@SpookDog This looks to be coming on well, shame the weather isn't good enough for painting but Lidl spray paint is exactly the same as Smoothrite (but cheaper) so once all the festive tat is sold, they might have some in by the time you can get the spraying done.
Good time to Seal-All the carb-to-airbox rubber in the meantime; usually the rear shock has to come out to remove the airbox and you won't want to wrestle with it too much once the frame is painted. The rubber is downstream of the air filter and Yamaha made a poor job of sealing them at the factory so potentially your engine can suck dirt if this hasn't been done.
I understand where you’re coming from but personally, I like to have it removable. It just makes it easier for the times I do get around to cleaning it all up. Mine gets filthy even with good filters properly maintained! (Tho obviously not frequently enough!) the little crimped tube helps with flushing out though…
I did manage to get a last coat of etch primer on after the rain stopped! I forgot about Lidles paint! Hammerite smoothrite can be so very expensive!
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Tomorrow is sposed’ to be dry
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@SpookDog Your frame is in little better condition than mine was on the project DTZr thread.I used paint remover for the paint,acid for rust removal even inside of some of the tubes where was possible very good soap water cleaning.
Immediately drying in the sun and torch heat for the insides.
Using a big syringe I poured rust converter in every tube was possible until was running from the venting holes
After drying did the same with cold zinc paint for rust protection.
Wire wheel on all the frame,cold zinc paint then black paint.
Also had to repair drill holes at the back of the frame,broken bolts,damaged threads and straighten the frame where the back sub frame/rack attaches.And this was a good frame,2 other DT's I saw before buying were raped literally.
Here the DT's were used for serious off roading even competition,races and a lot of bad 2 stroke tuners that literally killed the DT's like flies.
I wish I had condition like most of you buy. -
@SpookDog Your frame is in little better condition than mine was on the project DTZr thread.I used paint remover for the paint,acid for rust removal even inside of some of the tubes where was possible very good soap water cleaning.
Immediately drying in the sun and torch heat for the insides.
Using a big syringe I poured rust converter in every tube was possible until was running from the venting holes
After drying did the same with cold zinc paint for rust protection.
Wire wheel on all the frame,cold zinc paint then black paint.
Also had to repair drill holes at the back of the frame,broken bolts,damaged threads and straighten the frame where the back sub frame/rack attaches.And this was a good frame,2 other DT's I saw before buying were raped literally.
Here the DT's were used for serious off roading even competition,races and a lot of bad 2 stroke tuners that literally killed the DT's like flies.
I wish I had condition like most of you buy.Didn’t notice your post about the 200 carb, interesting!…
Again! I wish I had a welding kit or gas. I really need to close up and drill, then tap so many fuxed threads on the frame. Also, Id love to see a known good frame so I could compare my ass end. I’m sure that mine looks like a Gorilla sat on it (& bounced!)…
The last thing I wanted to do was paint at this time of year. I couldn’t leave it the way it was for another 6 months though. Not in good conscience 🫤 …
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@SpookDog What color is that black or anthracite in matt,looks very nice on the frame.
I would like very much a small oxy/acetylene torch kit but they are expensive 400+ euros.
I feel you .....It’s actually etch primer, a brand I’ve never heard of before: Upol
Gorgeous colour & finish ain’t it? 90% of my bikes have been satin black, I went through an olive drab spell as well
️Kudos on doing your frame by hand. I know how much is involved, just with the paint stripping! I’ll have to read through your thread…
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It’s actually etch primer, a brand I’ve never heard of before: Upol
Gorgeous colour & finish ain’t it? 90% of my bikes have been satin black, I went through an olive drab spell as well️Kudos on doing your frame by hand. I know how much is involved, just with the paint stripping! I’ll have to read through your thread…
Round one! In the White corner!!
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1 & 1/4 cans down. 1 & 3/4 to go! (Plus 250ml brush on for those bits)…
It’s not pretty, there are some small areas of orange peeling, tho nothing big. As long as it’s protection till I can do the professional ‘thing’
…Day 2:
What kind of idiot sprays paint I the windiest day of the month?!
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Round one! In the White corner!!
…1 & 1/4 cans down. 1 & 3/4 to go! (Plus 250ml brush on for those bits)…
It’s not pretty, there are some small areas of orange peeling, tho nothing big. As long as it’s protection till I can do the professional ‘thing’
…Day 2:
What kind of idiot sprays paint I the windiest day of the month?!
