Quick help for suspension service
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wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 01:11 last edited by declan
Sorry lads it’s really late and I knew it’s name a few seconds ago but too tired to think it had the dog bones on it the shock connects to it question is I’ve got the nuts off the one side and the bushings are litteraly ram packed with dirt s do they just knock out like if you were to do a wheel spindle bike is not jacked up but it will be when I do this for obvious reasons never worked on one of these systems thanks lads I need sleep lol.
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Sorry lads it’s really late and I knew it’s name a few seconds ago but too tired to think it had the dog bones on it the shock connects to it question is I’ve got the nuts off the one side and the bushings are litteraly ram packed with dirt s do they just knock out like if you were to do a wheel spindle bike is not jacked up but it will be when I do this for obvious reasons never worked on one of these systems thanks lads I need sleep lol.
wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 01:29 last edited byEDIT- just remembered it’s the linkage lol
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Sorry lads it’s really late and I knew it’s name a few seconds ago but too tired to think it had the dog bones on it the shock connects to it question is I’ve got the nuts off the one side and the bushings are litteraly ram packed with dirt s do they just knock out like if you were to do a wheel spindle bike is not jacked up but it will be when I do this for obvious reasons never worked on one of these systems thanks lads I need sleep lol.
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@declan once the bolts are out, the sleeves should push out by hand.
However it sounds like yours might need pressing out. It's the relay arm by the way
wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 11:28 last edited by@finnerz89 will I have to do the bolts on the other side holding the right dog bone on before I can get em out?
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wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 11:32 last edited by
I always found that taking the load off the bike helps when actually removing the linkage bolts.
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I always found that taking the load off the bike helps when actually removing the linkage bolts.
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@calum yeah I’ve already used that meathod for the dog bone if I take both dog bones off it will collapse won’t it?
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@declan Yeah that's fine, just lower it gently.
You will need to be careful with the collars. If they're badly pitted then they're going to need replacing.
Lube indefinitely to inhibit rot.
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@calum only got the one out the one side is a little pitted but it should be fine I’ll pick some up if I decide to do a strip down over winter
wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 13:42 last edited by Calum@declan I would use a metal polish, a soft polishing mop on a dremel to cure the that as much as possible.
It sounds silly, but any sort of corrosion on this part will not only affect the handling, but also the longevity of the needle bearings it runs against. The frictional forces at work on the suspension components shouldn't be overlooked. It's far cheaper to replace an £8 collar. than a £30 needle bearing. SWING ARM BEARINGS ARE EXPENSIVE!!!
FYI to anyone who wants to powdercoat swingarms lol
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@declan I would use a metal polish, a soft polishing mop on a dremel to cure the that as much as possible.
It sounds silly, but any sort of corrosion on this part will not only affect the handling, but also the longevity of the needle bearings it runs against. The frictional forces at work on the suspension components shouldn't be overlooked. It's far cheaper to replace an £8 collar. than a £30 needle bearing. SWING ARM BEARINGS ARE EXPENSIVE!!!
FYI to anyone who wants to powdercoat swingarms lol
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wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 13:51 last edited by Calum
@declan Item 13 is the linkage, lots of bearings
In the event you have a collar, and no bearings (as designed from the factory) you have to be even more strict. As the you won't have the flexibility of simply replacing the bearing, you instead have to replace the whole item.
Oh so for example, Cam Shaft Journals on a Four Stroke engine. Since the cams run directly onto a Journal, no shells or bearings, if you damage the Journal you destroy the head.
It's far cheaper to replace the cams than it is to replace the head. That's the idea.
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@declan Item 13 is the linkage, lots of bearings
In the event you have a collar, and no bearings (as designed from the factory) you have to be even more strict. As the you won't have the flexibility of simply replacing the bearing, you instead have to replace the whole item.
Oh so for example, Cam Shaft Journals on a Four Stroke engine. Since the cams run directly onto a Journal, no shells or bearings, if you damage the Journal you destroy the head.
It's far cheaper to replace the cams than it is to replace the head. That's the idea.
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@calum mine is just the bushings theres no place for bearings bud i simply don’t have the funds right now but I do understand what your saying it’s just not possible for me right now
wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 14:03 last edited by Calum@declan I can't see how your linkage could not have bearings lol. It would be horrendously slack and would never get an MOT.
As I said, if by some strange event you don't have any bearings there, you will destroy the part and it'll cost you £105 for a new linkage rather than the £10 for the bearings.
That's the point I'm trying to make.
I personally don't understand the mentality of scrimping.
I bought my car 3 years ago and it has been absolutely neglected. Whilst I do really need this car, I haven't driven it until everything has been rectified. We're talking everything, the car has simply sat still. I actually cycle everywhere lol, it's pretty tragic. So I understand having the lack of funds, but the way I see it, it will cost more in the long run if you don't sort it out.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@declan I can't see how your linkage could not have bearings lol. It would be horrendously slack and would never get an MOT.
As I said, if by some strange event you don't have any bearings there, you will destroy the part and it'll cost you £105 for a new linkage rather than the £10 for the bearings.
That's the point I'm trying to make.
I personally don't understand the mentality of scrimping.
I bought my car 3 years ago and it has been absolutely neglected. Whilst I do really need this car, I haven't driven it until everything has been rectified. We're talking everything, the car has simply sat still. I actually cycle everywhere lol, it's pretty tragic. So I understand having the lack of funds, but the way I see it, it will cost more in the long run if you don't sort it out.
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@calum like I said it’s just something I gotta do and the bike ain’t going anywhere anytime soon anyway, so help me understand some have bearings but mine doesent?
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wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 14:29 last edited by
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wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 15:06 last edited by
Yeah yeah that's sound. That's the bronze bush. But the other part of the linkage, will have bearings in it.
That collar sits inside the bronze bush, the two should be replaced at the same time. I would polish the collar, and pack the linkage full of grease.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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Yeah yeah that's sound. That's the bronze bush. But the other part of the linkage, will have bearings in it.
That collar sits inside the bronze bush, the two should be replaced at the same time. I would polish the collar, and pack the linkage full of grease.
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@calum can’t get the other one out can move it a bit but that’s it I’ll have a go from the other side tomorrow as it must be as dry as the Desert
wrote on 18 Oct 2017, 15:53 last edited by@declan Oh, I would probably leave the bronze inserts in there bud.
So long as the collars have not up and down play then that's fine. Just grease it all up.
Those bronze collars will wear rather than the linkage.
Once they have worn past their limit, the collar and bush will have play. But the outer side of the bronze bush should be fine. WHich means the linkage should be find
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
