Yamaha dt125re rebuild
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@bradt If you damage the shaft, it will always leak oil and you will need a new shaft. It's just hacky to do it in situe, but can be done.
I can't remember how it is on these engines, what is in the way.
But that should be pulled out from the clutch cover side. You don't need to remove it, just pull it clear of the oil seal so you don't damage it.
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Id just replace it aswell, its pretty common to do, And I've done so many times on other bikes, both for the gear selector shaft, and the main output shaft.
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So iv fell massively behind new job etc house problems the list goes on
But we’re not far off
New job means this is going to be a daily user for work so need it back on the road and sorted until I get a company carAnother things is there anyone close to Sheffield or willing to travel for abit of light off-roading in the Peak District or just general meeting ?
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So after loosing all my photos phone crashed etc etc iv managed to save what I could a upload these few .
Only a few bits left to do gearbox oil etc to go in.
Most bits now will just been cleaned and placed in as need it for work ASAP.
Will loads what iv got left on my phone but all I have at the minute.
Only picture I have to hand will be coming out in the sunshine this week
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When I first started rebuilding it wasn’t the idea was just gunna be a weekend toy have a good blast around every now and again but things change so until I get my company car it will be used
But with it nearly finished it’s not the best build and not the cleanest and already pricing everything up for a full nut and bolt rebuild and making everything original to keep its value but that’s a long way offAlready keeping my eyes open for something else for a project something I don’t need to use as really enjoyed doing this.
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@bradt best way is to run premix in your bike while running with the autolube full bleed the lines there will be a rubber blanking cap on the pump pull that off While the bike is running on premix and when the air bubbles stop coming out plug it back up then watch the flow coming from the pump to engine best use clear lines so you can see the air bubbles then when there’s no bubbles your good to switch back to autolube fully
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Cheers mate ordered some clear lines
Bike all ready now, but have noticed a leak from the carb guessing bowl gasket needs replacing
Auto lube needs bleeding also and she ready for her first start
First time out the garage in a few months quick wipe down and a polish
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Does anyone know where the black wire (I’m guess an earth) on the coil is meant to go
Iv just fitted a new startermotor to the build makes it easier to start and found I have no coil
Noticed the black wire with hook was connected to the coil itself should this be earthed to frame or is this right ?
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The starter motor has a red wire only which connects to the starter solenoid (this is the square thing with two fuses in it by the battery). There is a black wire with a hook which connects to the neutral switch which is located near to the starter motor at the bottom of the engine casing on the flywheel side. this in turn plugs into the part of the loom which goes into the stator/generator coil via a bullet connector. Hope this helps.