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@mhbikesnbits Satin chrome paint would look good. Is that from a rattle can? I resprayed mine in a gloss black paint and although they look good, once fitted TBH they do chip easily. Mostly due to their location on the bike, being vulnerable to stones and salt, plus ease of rear suspension reassembly. Paint is fine but I would suggest that a powered coat might be more durable???
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@NINJA was thinking electroplated chrome, the coating should last years that way but if I was to paint I would go with powder coat
@mhbikesnbits Chrome is cool but very expensive, especially compared to paint or powered coat. Plus once chipped or damaged it will need a full re-chrome, which again is not cheap and takes a few weeks out of your riding time. Personally I would just paint them, at least that way if those parts gets damaged its an easy fix which you can perform yourself relatively cheaply. :winking_face: :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: :winking_face:
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@declan I agree I like powder coat but it’s got to be done by the right person or I don’t think it lasts very good and chips easy, Ive powder coated pretty much everything on the bike as I like how it strong it is, I also have a good powder coater who is into bikes and restoration himself so I know he knows what the crack is,
As a little experiment I’m also going to ceramic coat everything painted on my bike too like they use on cars when detailing before it’s fitted on the bike as to see if gives it even more protection
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Powdercoating is great for resilience.
But the finish isn't always the best. For things on show, can't bet 2 pack paint. Fot things that need protecting, powdercoat.
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@Calum i also like 2pac I spray that a lot where I work probably my second choice if i didn’t go with powder coat also always wanted to try cerakote heard great results with that too
@mhbikesnbits 2k paint is far superior to regular cellulose paint. Pretty much all rattle cans are only 1K cellulose paint. 2K is more durable and also chemical resistant, so it's much more robust and provides a superior finish to protect your parts. If you have a compressor and can mix paint then I'd go for the 2K, use Zinc primer on non-aluminum parts and a self etch primer on Ali parts, for even more protection and longevity. Or if you have a friend or good body shop nearby then get a professional to do it. But like I said think long term and what will be the simplest and cheapest solution if your parts ever need repairing in the future. :winking_face: :winking_face:
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Busy life = lack of progress, however have blasted last couple of bits for the engine ready for powder coating and plastics to be rattle canned
I have vaqua blasted the plastic parts as it leaves a nice key like you would get off shot blasting metal perfect for spraying
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Engine parts took to the powder coaters £110 is the cost not too bad in my opinion considering the masking work on it ect, always a top job by my guy - crank case, cylinder + head, clutch cover, power valve cable box power valve cover, water pump and power valve cap, gone for a satin black ral 9005 17% gloss
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Engine parts took to the powder coaters £110 is the cost not too bad in my opinion considering the masking work on it ect, always a top job by my guy - crank case, cylinder + head, clutch cover, power valve cable box power valve cover, water pump and power valve cap, gone for a satin black ral 9005 17% gloss
@mhbikesnbits That's a good price, I wish the coaters around here were that cheap. I got quoted £100 just for a set of yokes. :face_screaming_in_fear:
Rattle can to the rescue!!! :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:
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@mhbikesnbits That's a good price, I wish the coaters around here were that cheap. I got quoted £100 just for a set of yokes. :face_screaming_in_fear:
Rattle can to the rescue!!! :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:
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@NINJA wow really what area are from , that’s expensive he does a top notch job too restores bikes himself so he knows the crack what’s good to paint and what’s not
@mhbikesnbits Berkshire, sadly there's not too many coaters interested in 'small one off' type jobs in this neck of the woods.
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It's difficult to find a coaters "sympathetic" to restoration as opposed to commercial work, you need an enthusiast. I rate my coater highly but even them I have returned the odd bit, but I am picky (why should I not be, I am paying). Maybe being a regular (ish) customer helps but the cost is reasonable to me, when I first went there made clear my expectations and they have accommodated my requirements. I am lucky there are several local to me but not all finishes available, need to find someone local who does anodising, would prefer that to painting my black bits.
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It's difficult to find a coaters "sympathetic" to restoration as opposed to commercial work, you need an enthusiast. I rate my coater highly but even them I have returned the odd bit, but I am picky (why should I not be, I am paying). Maybe being a regular (ish) customer helps but the cost is reasonable to me, when I first went there made clear my expectations and they have accommodated my requirements. I am lucky there are several local to me but not all finishes available, need to find someone local who does anodising, would prefer that to painting my black bits.
@oldman I have a few anodisers around me I did think a couple of days ago actually,
maybe I should of, but it was just easier just send a load in one go for powder coat as the price is good for me and quality is amazing,the 3et was listed on eBay for a while from a seller in Poland it had damage on the engine case as seen in a previous post that I have repaired which might have put people off but with much thought I decided to pull the trigger
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@mhbikesnbits Berkshire, sadly there's not too many coaters interested in 'small one off' type jobs in this neck of the woods.
@NINJA that’s a lil unlucky then no harm in using rattle paint tho instead I suppose, get more satisfaction doing the job yourself
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Nice project! The crankcase damage in this engine occured because the owner didnt pay that much attention to the condition of the chain and sprockets, I recommend you changing the drivetrain from 428 to 520 for better strenght(just look for DT200R chain and sprockets, everything will fit bolt-on) and also use the chain lower guide(new avaible to buy cheap at yamaha dealer) in good condition, if you do that there will be no more problems with chain causing damage to the crankcases.
I raced the guy on that DT200R in 2016, it was only amateur cross-country type of championship but the WR200 turned out to be superior to DT :face_with_stuck-out_tongue: , 2 years later he sold me the bike.
Heres a pic of that DT, looked better than when i got her.
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Nice project! The crankcase damage in this engine occured because the owner didnt pay that much attention to the condition of the chain and sprockets, I recommend you changing the drivetrain from 428 to 520 for better strenght(just look for DT200R chain and sprockets, everything will fit bolt-on) and also use the chain lower guide(new avaible to buy cheap at yamaha dealer) in good condition, if you do that there will be no more problems with chain causing damage to the crankcases.
I raced the guy on that DT200R in 2016, it was only amateur cross-country type of championship but the WR200 turned out to be superior to DT :face_with_stuck-out_tongue: , 2 years later he sold me the bike.
Heres a pic of that DT, looked better than when i got her.
@Challenger the dt is already having a lot of it’s power sapped a bigger chain is way overkill
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@Challenger the dt is already having a lot of it’s power sapped a bigger chain is way overkill
@declan Well you probably could fit a bicycle chain if youd try, but the 520 was standard in both two-hundreds, DT and WR. Im a bit of oem bikes and parts freak so thats the type Im using.
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Nice project! The crankcase damage in this engine occured because the owner didnt pay that much attention to the condition of the chain and sprockets, I recommend you changing the drivetrain from 428 to 520 for better strenght(just look for DT200R chain and sprockets, everything will fit bolt-on) and also use the chain lower guide(new avaible to buy cheap at yamaha dealer) in good condition, if you do that there will be no more problems with chain causing damage to the crankcases.
I raced the guy on that DT200R in 2016, it was only amateur cross-country type of championship but the WR200 turned out to be superior to DT :face_with_stuck-out_tongue: , 2 years later he sold me the bike.
Heres a pic of that DT, looked better than when i got her.
@Challenger thanks for sharing buddy cracking picture, I would image yes maybe the case was damaged because of the chain and sprocket buyer didn’t specify why, could be a number of ways,
I’m unsure what chain size and sprocket size to use yet need to some research after I’ve rebuilt the engine and fitted it to the frame, Id prefer to get it to this stage before I start planning how to engineer the bike
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@Challenger the dt is already having a lot of it’s power sapped a bigger chain is way overkill
@declan positive and negatives in either way I suppose buddy
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I’ve ordered and new workshop so planning that at the moment which is why there has not been much attention to the dt, also rebuilding my 1980 rm 80 engine, which I need to metal spray the crank as the bearing is to slack on one side of the crank wouldn’t want it spinning one bearing that’s for sure,
Just for fun anyone want share a picture of there workshops/ garage ?
