Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR)
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Note To Self
Racebikes don’t have road bike stuffs...
There’s me thinking I learned my lesson when I realised the tabs on the DT200WR swingarm matched a DT’s mudguard suspiciously well
Well I made an oops again
Just realised YZ forks need locator tabs for the gear drive. Reckon some JB weld would hold up? Hahaha
Note To Everyone
MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER AND BUY A WRF FRONT ENDSo now I gotta sort some tabs (and not the ones that‘ll make the likes of Pink Floyd and Jefferson Airplane infinitely more enjoyable) to make the drive gear thing not an issue.
I saw my uncle yesterday and we got chatting bo an alternative option was to see if we could use what we already had.
The idea being that turn down the YZ axle for the DT wheel or buy some custom bearings from a local shop to just run the stock DT front wheel but with WR200 front rotor so everything matches up with the YZ brakes.
Really its just a spitball idea that we never got much of a chance to talk about but an idea nonetheless + still the issue of the gear drive locator tabs.Something Else
Whilst this was going on I was looking at what guys in the motorcross and enduro scene have been doing over the years to solve this problem when I stumbled across this little gadget
The “Daytona Asura” a very smart tidy little computer lesser known and used from what I’ve found. From what I can tell it’s been about for sometime and for whatever reason never got the attention of those “Trailtech: Vapour” units you see everyone and there mum owning.
Unlike the trailtech it’s cheaper and has an oil light, temperature gauge (for both Air and Engine) and a much much nicer display.
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@Stevie-Wonder Looks like a Trial Tech copy Unit to me. The Trialtech does have Oil Light/Neutral Light/Indicator Light/Fuel Light/High Beam Light. Also has shift lights aswell. So I'm not sure this unit is any better.
I'm struggling to understand what the problem is? Why don't you just fit the forks etc that you've got on. Your reasoning about swapping it all out in a few minutes is moot at this point as you've spent more time debating what setup to go with than just doing sticking with what you got. At the end of the day, it doesn't take very long to swap the front end out of the bike so you shouldn't focus on it so much.
Just use the setup you've got, chuck the USDs on and just enjoy it. If for whatever reason you want the stock setup, then it's a few hours work and you're rolling again. Rather than months of umming and arring when you could be out enjoying
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@Calum I get what you’re saying but I think you’ve got the wrong end of the stick, there aren’t no problems. I also think I forgot to blog that I gave up with trying to sell the YZ bits after about a day of people asking me how’d you put them on their DTR.
I’m just writing my discoveries, events and developments as they happen.. even if they’re stupid little fuck ups so I can look back and watch myself learn as I build my bike.
I bare no humility or shame in the fact I’m learning, there’s a reason why I called this “An Idiots Guide...” after allAfter giving up with facebook
I’ll be fair with ya though, I get what you’re saying... you see lots of posts but not a lot of progress. So... as it stands I’ve got a 2 maybe 3 week window (If I’m lucky) to get as much shit done as possible, here’s where I’m at.
- I’ve ordered the missing fork bolts
- full set of OEM fairing bolts.
- Brake hose guide/Cover (something really cool and unique from ‘96-‘05 although I don’t think they where used until ‘99)
- got worried if my plan with the speedo gear drive was going to work and looked into alternative options in case.
- Spent a year on Fowler’s working out the backwards compatibility of everything on the YZ / WR / WRF’s front end so I can make 100% sure I don’t buy anything from the wrong year and fuck myself.
- Concluded I have to run a ‘02-‘05 front wheel wheel as if memory serves me right Yamaha changed axles and stopped using that gear drive for the odometer unit I need to pinch.
Hubs didn’t change from ‘02-‘18 Either across WRF line. Pretty sure even the forks ran from ‘96-‘06 with very few changes. - I got measurements for the bearing race etc and send them off to have the bearing cup made and bought a nice new taper rolling bearing to boot.
All I need is a WRF wheel, speedo drive and the other parts to get back to me then hopefully we can see this come to life!
Hopefully “SnoopDogg” cough cough @SpookDog saved that 200R shock for me so I can put some cash in his pockets or gives him some goodies, I might have a surprise in store for him.
If I get the shock then my plan is to get a bearing kit for the 200WR swingarm and chuck it along with the shock into my bike as quick as possible as the 200wr swinger is probably my favourite thing I’ve bought/found to date.
Imo axle block adjusters + Deltabox alloy and USD’s will just really bring the DT in to the modern age and away from the clunky boxy 80’s look. I’m infinitely excited to never have to see or use snail shell adjusters againSo yeah, I had a little moment where I kinda gave up on myself and my plan. I found out that at any moment my uni could pull me back there at a moments notice despite not sorting any provisions and to make things ten times worse I had no funds (can’t get a job because of uni potentially recalling me, even when I’ve got 2 job interviews and a trial shift), bike has no Mot or tax, weathers getting worse and it’s sat without me touching it for three months and the person who was meant to be helping... well, just wasn’t.
That last part is the worst part, after all there’s only so much you can do for yourself and to help yourself before you need someone to help you along the way.My man Arild was actually the guy who give me some words of wisdom to reflect on, ended up realising I have 75-85% of the parts to build a sick bike I’m just being a wet wipe about it
Well, that and these images certainly helped too...
Found this original survivor WR in a foreign forum whilst trying to find info on those early YZ/WR brake disc guards.
Judging by the wear, she had a good life and spent her years being used as intended by her owner.
Surprisingly the other thing that’s given me a lot of inspiration is just seeing some of the clean and simple YZ builds out there are
Even this,
Or this really catches my eye.
I think it’s just because I’m really imagining my bike as that though -
@Stevie-Wonder
Sorry bud, I never heard back from my offer. I can’t find the listing now. Only one I can find is a mint one in USA for about £110 -
Welcome back,
The postman’s certainly been busy...
But then again he’s not the only one
Built in my bedroom.
My grandad would be proud right now.
My swingarm suffered the same fate as darty’s.
Shame. I’ve got a ‘89 chain slider with life in it, but I’m not chancy anything. The chain sliders aren’t designed to protect the swingarm very well in the first place.
kPure lack of care... the last owner didn’t run the correct spacers etc. Full OEM replacement had to be done all round, she’s like new now.
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Much Excite.
Bike is in workshop.
Big block of aluminium has arrived.
Lathe is ready and primed.
Sandwich bags full of OEM bolts prepared.
1 bike getting reassembled. (hopefully)Whilst many people have dreaded another lockdown I couldn’t thank that wispy haired numpty of PM we have anymore right now.
I don’t have to return to study for a month giving me free time to get this done.. not that I was going to return to uni until it was done anyway
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@stevie-wonder Keep us updated bud
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@calum said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
@stevie-wonder Keep us updated bud
Ahh. Houston we have a problem.
Block of ally’s to big for jaws of the of the lathe.
The issue is now that the person with the lathe big enough to do it wants £200. Not quite the £50 wanted originally.Doing it yourself is fun but I’m honestly wishing I want to the machinist shop.
Does machining usually cost this much? -
@stevie-wonder Custom fab is always going to pricey
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@calum so £200 actually isn’t too out of the question? Speaking to Ryan (my uncles mate) and my uncle they all reckon that even at that price the guy was doing it cheaper then anywhere else and was doing them a favour (the guy with the big lathe who offered to do it owns the workshop next to them so they’re all mates)
I’m shocked by the price but simultaneously I understand it’s also one of those things not everyone can do.
I should probably mention it’s a bloody good thing I have some £££ to afford it and really want to see those USD’s on my bike
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@stevie-wonder Well I know from experience you're talking a few hours work. Most of the work is trueing the lathe etc. If you're on £100 an hour, which is typical for engineers, then yeah it's a good deal. It's not something that can CNC and make batches of, it's a custom job and requires a man to stand there and do it.
I had people asking how much for the Hydraulic clutch conversion on my RS and again, I would want £500 because of how long it takes and if I mess it up, you have to start again from scratch. So it is what it is.
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@calum said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
@stevie-wonder Well I know from experience you're talking a few hours work. Most of the work is trueing the lathe etc. If you're on £100 an hour, which is typical for engineers, then yeah it's a good deal. It's not something that can CNC and make batches of, it's a custom job and requires a man to stand there and do it.
I had people asking how much for the Hydraulic clutch conversion on my RS and again, I would want £500 because of how long it takes and if I mess it up, you have to start again from scratch. So it is what it is.
See, I can appreciate that. I imagined the skill being somewhat like tattooing in that sense. Only one go, hours of dedication to get good and a specialised skill. Except if you fuck up it comes out of your pocket. That’s why when I was quoted £200 I was keen to see if anywhere else could do it cheaper but I wasn’t quick to outright be insulting about the sum.
I did actually agree to paying £200 by the way. Having had that explained to me though makes it me realise someone’s looking after me, especially when knowing who’s doing it probably has 20+ years worth of experience. Something money can’t buy.
Speaking of which mate I remember you saying you where going to make a blog about USD conversion? Well as I’m doing mine I’m going to be taking videos of the entire process if they’ll be any use to you? -
@stevie-wonder I wrote a guide years ago
https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/17/usd-conversion-bearing-cup-methodBut you may as well create a new one if you think it would be useful.
I guess the difference being I done all the work myself so I have first hand experience on what was actually done. And I never fitted DTR wheels always just the RS wheels. So it all adds to the archive. Someone might find your stuff really useful
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Yeah bro I get that. Working on bikes really has taught me a newfound respect and envy for practical people and those with them capabilities.
I’m not sure if I will put the DTR wheels too, I need a second wheel set admittedly but I don’t think the standard DT ones would be worth the faff. The rotor size difference is big issue. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. I plan to just stick with the YZ 19” rear and same with the front. Also the machining is now doing by someone else on my behalf so I guess I won’t be able to get a video anymore, especially as it’s already half way done.
Anyway here she sits. In my uncles garage waiting on a bearing cup.
Imagine this but wrapped in layers of tarpaulin in all weathers for 6 months outside your door. Criminal. Even worse I’m unable to do anything because of university. I’ve learned a hard lesson from this. Don’t ever rush anything, prepare a hundred times over and always have double the money you expect to need but most importantly if it ain’t broke don’t fucking fix it!So as part of a new mantra I’m going to treat my bike less like a project and spend more time actually enjoying it. So once I’ve done all this I’ll go back to saving money and keeping an eye out for anything for the future.
Plenty more goodies to come.
What’s this...
It’s my girls new face, much prettier. The old one gave my elephant vibes.
1988’ 3ET DT200R Headlight. Stupidly priced even for its condition but apparently they aren’t too common. A small price to pay for completing the look/style I want and the cherry on the cake for those YZ forks.Sidenote
In case you haven’t noticed black doesn’t match my colour way... guess what that means. Spray paint. I hate to say it but it’s gotta be done.
It genuinely kills me purely for one simple reason. I grew up watching Camel Trophy as a kid with my dad on VHS. I even destroyed one of his tapes once as a kid trying to play them in the tv. I’d feel bad destroying that little bit of history, the little bit of 90’s and nostalgia. I wonder if could just mask it off? Or should I just leave it? What do you think. My mates reckon to leave it alone. -
It's whatever you're into really. My DT has probably done more miles up and down on the dolly than I have ridden it. The enjoyment comes from browsing the web, looking for parts and doing the work, I don't need to ride it to enjoy it. Same with my RS. Barely ridden that and the cost of the thing was eye watering.
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I feel you mate.
Each and everyone one of us that have embarked on our endeavours with these bikes have done so with a different story, motivating factor/purpose and a general idea of what they want to achieve.
MYou see some of the personality and mentality within someone’s build. Like we all got our own reasons for doing what we do and our own enjoyment. Mines just the simple learning curve. Like don’t get me wrong I find enjoyment in all those things you mentioned but because I entered this game not knowing anything I need a little help along the way.Speaking of which bearing cup is made however I’ve got of the phone to my uncle and he’s tack welded the bearing cup into my frame without me knowing
+ stripped my forks for their stanchions and springs. They where only rebuilt with OEM seals 300 miles ago 
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@stevie-wonder Might bearing cup was an interference fit. And then powdercoated. It's been that way for 6 years, over jumps and all sorts.
But to be honest, tack weld is very simple to undo so no dramas.
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It’s actually kinda mad seeing these pictures, all that talk and help from everyone is starting to come into fruition
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Welds do mean that I probably won’t be using my original forks for the foreseeable future.
Not what I wanted or had intended but maybe it’s for the best.In other news I cannot for the absolute fucking life of me find where I left my front disc & calliper guard for the standard forks. I put them somewhere safe like I would the rest of my parts I’ve taken off I’ve looked everywhere and I just can’t find them and it’s driving me mad.
Asked on fb and got quoted £70 for them used or £100 NOS through CMSNL. Ouch. Mine’s like new as well. -
