HELP I HAVE A SPARK WHEN IGNITION IS OFF BUT NOT WHEN ON

[Calum]

I had this years ago. Faulty side stand was fo blame. I just bypassed it and the ignition barrel.

For a long time used to just start it up with the ignition in the off position and kick it over whilst simultaneously switching it to the on position.

[markus.w]

@Calum I was going to say I'm sure I've read about that problem before on this forum.

[gazza76]

hi i know its a long shot anyone know which wire tends to be broken

[Calum]

Check the side stand switch circuit.

[gazza76]

done all that bud looped the side stand switch kill switch and 2 loops in the ignition block
i remove the loop on the kill switch no spark so thats good
i remove the loop in the ignition block ( blue\white & blue\yellow ) no spark so good but as soon as i remove the main loop ( red & brown ) spark returns (that would be ignition & kill switch in the off position)

[Calum]

Can't remember if the side stand is NC or NO. Looping stuff might night work if that's the case.

Have you got a wiring diagram handy? There is one in the Haynes for your model.

My advice would be to put it back to stock and not just randomly looping stuff.

[gazza76]

yes i had everything stock every thing tests ok but still the same problem
i was trying to eliminate the switches

[gazza76]

i have read somewhere that a broken wire in the loom will cause it to spark with ignition off i've tested the loom on and off the bike but all seems ok

[vtrtomuk]

Hi all im going thought the same situation right now!

Not to hijack your thread here Gazza,

now i do have 2 looms to play with. one is a genuine Yamaha 3RM the other is a unknown.

the genuine one i have no problems with. but the other one i have has the same issue as you Gazza, if bypass the Kill and Side stand Switch with a loop and i then bridge all the pins on the ignition block then i get no spark, however if i then remove the pins from red and brown. the spark returns.

now the switches work by bridging the connections to red and brown and B/w to B/y respectivly.

like i said i have a genuine 3RM loom to and that is fine so i know the components are absoulutly fine. and the bike runs

its just with this unknown loom that i have an issue with. @gazza76 im curious to know did you get this loom from ebay a 3rd party made aftermarket one?

[gazza76]

been over it again today still no joy time to send the cdi for a test it's a strange one that yours works with one and not the other
i've seen one with the same symptoms and it was cdi and others say side stand or broken wire in the loom its only £40 to get the cdi tested so thats my next step if you do figure it out please let me know

[Marillionado]

Hi all, new to the forum and as you imagine, I have came across this very issue.
Now, full disclosure, my 3RM was running fine until I had it all disassembled and had the frame powder coated, which tells me either I screw up the electrics beforehand or, the power coat prevents grounding.
By any chance does anyone faced this issue after having the chassis re-painted? And if so, which areas or wires do we need to make sure are properly earthed?
Thanks a lot and cheers from Spain.
El Pedro