Options, Options, Options but which ones the best?
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wrote on 6 May 2020, 08:33 last edited by
Sorry I wasnt being funny
just talking about making my own home built 200 like Yamaha could have builtYes the SDR200 - rare and expensive now and oddly with a different engine to both the 3XP and 3ET 200's - looks like its based on the old 200LC motor.
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wrote on 6 May 2020, 08:53 last edited by
I don't know if they are rare. They were not sold over here which is why we don't see them. Sold in Asia. And yes it is of the LC age, late LC 1988.
I don't know though, there is something I just like about them.
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wrote on 6 May 2020, 14:49 last edited by
Yes they look good - kind of a merger between an RD125lc and a TZR125 but with a nicer looking frame
Only ones I've seen lately are all going for £3k+ right now so definitely look like people want them to command such high prices
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I did see you put 200, but I'm not familiar with that model. Rarity may be against you, the 250's are easier had.
You not what I wouldn't mind?
Yamaha SDR200! YPVS Too!
wrote on 6 May 2020, 21:13 last edited by@Calum i not long ago passed up the opportunity to buy a full 89 sdr engine because I want sure how I’d go about using it. I’m gutted now. They didn’t want much either.
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@Calum i not long ago passed up the opportunity to buy a full 89 sdr engine because I want sure how I’d go about using it. I’m gutted now. They didn’t want much either.
wrote on 6 May 2020, 21:59 last edited by@Stevie-Wonder they claim to be a Conservative 34hp which would be nice.
I don't think 3k is too bad especially as you see people wanting 3k for an Aprilia
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@Stevie-Wonder they claim to be a Conservative 34hp which would be nice.
I don't think 3k is too bad especially as you see people wanting 3k for an Aprilia
wrote on 7 May 2020, 07:00 last edited by@Calum 34 would be nice. About the same as a WR200. It’s also worth mentioning that the SDR200 bottom end doesn’t bolt in like the others and I’m not even sure top ends are interchangeable. I couldn’t find any info on here about that
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@Calum 34 would be nice. About the same as a WR200. It’s also worth mentioning that the SDR200 bottom end doesn’t bolt in like the others and I’m not even sure top ends are interchangeable. I couldn’t find any info on here about that
wrote on 7 May 2020, 08:44 last edited by@Stevie-Wonder Yeah I don't know much about them to be fair. But they look pretty sweet.
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@Stevie-Wonder Yeah I don't know much about them to be fair. But they look pretty sweet.
wrote on 7 May 2020, 09:39 last edited by@Calum * just to update what I was saying. I just remembered who it was I was talking to and it was a couple of the TZR Belgarda boys. He says the lower mount of it is all wrong and because of the electrical start it makes the SDR motors very ideal and highly sought after by them as a direct engine swap. Unfortunately not much good for us though
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wrote on 7 May 2020, 09:47 last edited by
Well I mean, I quite like the whole bike.
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wrote on 7 May 2020, 09:59 last edited by
Yes only the WR / R motors are a direct swap - think the SDR has an extra rear mount but I've never seen one in the flesh for maybe 20 years now.
£3k isn't much I know especially as they wont lose any value
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Yes only the WR / R motors are a direct swap - think the SDR has an extra rear mount but I've never seen one in the flesh for maybe 20 years now.
£3k isn't much I know especially as they wont lose any value
wrote on 8 May 2020, 02:08 last edited by@Nottsbiker yes it does, it’s what the Belgarda boys where telling me as I had asked if they where using that motor whey they’d never used the 3XP. Also update
I now have a full 4FU. valve head and barrel.
I still have the P but that’ll get sold to fund the 4FU. Unfortunately the guy with the 170 never got back to me so I set my self a challenge of finding a 4FU valve in under a day by the evening.Looking forward to the day I run it and it seizes, nicasil liners and the extra rebuild cost is what initially stopped me going anywhere near I kmx and now here I am
Do you think I’ll sacrifice much reliability with the 4FU? -
@Nottsbiker yes it does, it’s what the Belgarda boys where telling me as I had asked if they where using that motor whey they’d never used the 3XP. Also update
I now have a full 4FU. valve head and barrel.
I still have the P but that’ll get sold to fund the 4FU. Unfortunately the guy with the 170 never got back to me so I set my self a challenge of finding a 4FU valve in under a day by the evening.Looking forward to the day I run it and it seizes, nicasil liners and the extra rebuild cost is what initially stopped me going anywhere near I kmx and now here I am
Do you think I’ll sacrifice much reliability with the 4FU?wrote on 8 May 2020, 05:36 last edited by@Stevie-Wonder maybe, I really don't like nikasil i appreciate it but it's not something is want to run
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wrote on 8 May 2020, 08:13 last edited by
Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
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Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
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@Calum sure but in the event of damage usually it means it's screwed and it's pricier to replace obviously it's better but like I said it's not for me
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@declan Why would it get damaged? In the ten years I've been riding, I have never once damaged my DTR engine...
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Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
wrote on 8 May 2020, 16:00 last edited by@Calum said in Options, Options, Options but which ones the best?:
Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
Okay that makes a lot of sense. When you put aside the fact a seize or something could cost you very dearly on paper they actually offer a lot more quality’s. Not to mention the sound lol.
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@Calum said in Options, Options, Options but which ones the best?:
Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
Okay that makes a lot of sense. When you put aside the fact a seize or something could cost you very dearly on paper they actually offer a lot more quality’s. Not to mention the sound lol.
wrote on 8 May 2020, 16:41 last edited by@Stevie-Wonder it's not that much more expensive is it?
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wrote on 8 May 2020, 17:27 last edited by Darty 5 Aug 2020, 18:27
Nikasil is actually harder than a traditional cast iron sleeve.
For road use and clean induction, it’s incredibly durable.
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Nikasil is actually harder than a traditional cast iron sleeve.
For road use and clean induction, it’s incredibly durable.