So Close!...
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I’m @ 1964 miles now and it’s running so sweet it’s unreal compared to my previous escapades!
60something miles on the Brembo’s and I’m well surprised @ how positive they are! It’s hard to judge brakes on a bike with such a bad front end. Just touching the front brakes makes the forks dive (what feels like) 2~3 inches, then firm braking takes it the rest (like I said, it’s hard to judge). But I’m convinced these carbon-ceramic Brembo’s are in a totally different league than the red EBC pads I was using (NOT ‘Red Stuff’ which I couldn’t find a vendor for). If your front brake leaves you feeling insecure then these are worth the £24 for the confidence they inspire IMHO
I’m gonna get a pair for the rear as soon as I’m flush...I can’t wait for the 40 days for my progressive springs to get here to pass! I’m hoping to have the full ticket of a front end that doesn’t get down right scary over 55mph!
wrote on 23 Sept 2022, 16:49 last edited by2170 miles since the rebuild and all is well. Zips up to & cruises @ 60mph (@6000rpm) so smooth and quick if there’s no headwinds!
Gonna try the Exol synthetic and see how it stands up to castrol1 and silcolene comp2...
Ordered the Brembo carbon ceramic pads for the rear and am gonna fit them with the front calliper with the new bigger diameter master cylinder...
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2170 miles since the rebuild and all is well. Zips up to & cruises @ 60mph (@6000rpm) so smooth and quick if there’s no headwinds!
Gonna try the Exol synthetic and see how it stands up to castrol1 and silcolene comp2...
Ordered the Brembo carbon ceramic pads for the rear and am gonna fit them with the front calliper with the new bigger diameter master cylinder...
wrote on 25 Sept 2022, 15:39 last edited by2320 miles with no head blown! I’m officially calling it FIXED!! All caused by a too small pilot jet, un~fucking believable
Now I can get a rebore & new piston (that I trust completely) and get on with other jobs needing doing, like forks, paint, exhaust, new 6 foot friendly seat, new loom, ect -
2320 miles with no head blown! I’m officially calling it FIXED!! All caused by a too small pilot jet, un~fucking believable
Now I can get a rebore & new piston (that I trust completely) and get on with other jobs needing doing, like forks, paint, exhaust, new 6 foot friendly seat, new loom, ect -
@SpookDog 6 foot friendly seat? I had shorter dog bones made which jacked up the height of my bike. Roughly 10mm shorter than standard raised it sufficiently enough for me and I am 1.88m ~ 6"1
wrote on 27 Sept 2022, 17:41 last edited byJacking it would only make it worse for me. It’s the slipping down & forwards that stretches out my butt & boys. I need a higher, better padded/supported front to my seat. My but fits onto the spot where the soft thicker front foam levels out onto the thinner padded rear. There’s a ridge there I think...
Don’t RE’s have different tank, seat, config than the Dtr? I’m guessing they improved it...
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Jacking it would only make it worse for me. It’s the slipping down & forwards that stretches out my butt & boys. I need a higher, better padded/supported front to my seat. My but fits onto the spot where the soft thicker front foam levels out onto the thinner padded rear. There’s a ridge there I think...
Don’t RE’s have different tank, seat, config than the Dtr? I’m guessing they improved it...
wrote on 28 Sept 2022, 16:12 last edited by@SpookDog the forward most lowest part of the seat is where you should be sitting with you inside leg squeezing the tank for ultimate control/stability. But sounds to me like this part is too low for you? The dt125r seat height is 840mm/33inches, and the dt125re is 915mm/36inches so considerably taller. You can swap the seats as I've seen it done but you'd need to also swap the tank and all panels. A bit extreme though for a classic bike. Alternatively remove the seat cover and pack it up with a bit of memory foam or similar. Probably then best to fit a new seat cover.
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@SpookDog the forward most lowest part of the seat is where you should be sitting with you inside leg squeezing the tank for ultimate control/stability. But sounds to me like this part is too low for you? The dt125r seat height is 840mm/33inches, and the dt125re is 915mm/36inches so considerably taller. You can swap the seats as I've seen it done but you'd need to also swap the tank and all panels. A bit extreme though for a classic bike. Alternatively remove the seat cover and pack it up with a bit of memory foam or similar. Probably then best to fit a new seat cover.
wrote on 29 Sept 2022, 18:50 last edited by SpookDog@markus-w
If I sit there my knees are too far forward. My elbows stick out like chicken wings. Also my ankles won’t let my feet bend up enough to operate the gearshift. I just can’t fold myself up enough, imagine like a clown on a mini bike! But squatting for a dump
Cheers for the RE info. I didn’t realise the tank, seat & panels could be fitted to a dtr I thought the exhaust was different as well?...
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@markus-w
If I sit there my knees are too far forward. My elbows stick out like chicken wings. Also my ankles won’t let my feet bend up enough to operate the gearshift. I just can’t fold myself up enough, imagine like a clown on a mini bike! But squatting for a dump
Cheers for the RE info. I didn’t realise the tank, seat & panels could be fitted to a dtr I thought the exhaust was different as well?...
wrote on 29 Sept 2022, 20:13 last edited by@SpookDog slight difference in the exhaust, mainly the bracket near the radiator which can be easily adapted with a little spacer but there would be no need to change the exhaust. Have you considered wider bars with risers and rotate the gear lever forward on the teeth by 15-20 degrees?
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@SpookDog slight difference in the exhaust, mainly the bracket near the radiator which can be easily adapted with a little spacer but there would be no need to change the exhaust. Have you considered wider bars with risers and rotate the gear lever forward on the teeth by 15-20 degrees?
wrote on 29 Sept 2022, 20:26 last edited by@markus-w
Good ideas but the foot pegs are just too far back for my frame. I have plans for a custom seat. I have 2 spare bases and 1 spare foam. It’s just pretty low on my priorities at the mojo. I will get round to it though
Cheers bud -
@markus-w
Good ideas but the foot pegs are just too far back for my frame. I have plans for a custom seat. I have 2 spare bases and 1 spare foam. It’s just pretty low on my priorities at the mojo. I will get round to it though
Cheers budwrote on 11 Oct 2022, 14:45 last edited by SpookDog 10 Nov 2022, 15:503077 miles and all is well with my head 🥴
I’m getting the odd cloud of blue smoke when I open it up after a while of riding though. I ride conservatively most of the time not going above 6000rpm’s, but when I do I get a hellavu cloud of smoke, enough to notice in the mirrors! I’ve noticed it before but usually it’s when I’m at 70 in 5th. The engine doesn’t ‘chug’ or drop off revs at all. Today though it did it when I dropped a gear to overtake at about 50mph, I didn’t notice the rpm, just the cloud of smoke in my mirrors!...
Anyone else notice this with their bikes? Is it normal? Or do I have a brake pedal side crank seal problem? Any input is appreciated
...It doesn’t do it every time. Just the odd time after riding ‘gently’
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3077 miles and all is well with my head 🥴
I’m getting the odd cloud of blue smoke when I open it up after a while of riding though. I ride conservatively most of the time not going above 6000rpm’s, but when I do I get a hellavu cloud of smoke, enough to notice in the mirrors! I’ve noticed it before but usually it’s when I’m at 70 in 5th. The engine doesn’t ‘chug’ or drop off revs at all. Today though it did it when I dropped a gear to overtake at about 50mph, I didn’t notice the rpm, just the cloud of smoke in my mirrors!...
Anyone else notice this with their bikes? Is it normal? Or do I have a brake pedal side crank seal problem? Any input is appreciated ...It doesn’t do it every time. Just the odd time after riding ‘gently’
wrote on 17 Oct 2022, 14:39 last edited byMOT time today! And my bike has decided it’s not gonna rev above 6k anysense! Seems the power valve is sticky/gummed up in the barrel. I’m gonna strip it and clean it after the mot. Does this happen often or just after I started using different 2stroke oil?!
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MOT time today! And my bike has decided it’s not gonna rev above 6k anysense! Seems the power valve is sticky/gummed up in the barrel. I’m gonna strip it and clean it after the mot. Does this happen often or just after I started using different 2stroke oil?!
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MOT time today! And my bike has decided it’s not gonna rev above 6k anysense! Seems the power valve is sticky/gummed up in the barrel. I’m gonna strip it and clean it after the mot. Does this happen often or just after I started using different 2stroke oil?!
wrote on 17 Oct 2022, 21:51 last edited by@SpookDog
The servo motor is ok isn’t it ? For the powervalve to be gummed up and it’s not opening is a bit suspect, as the servo can apply quite a bit of force and if it’s not it might on its way out. ? Then again is the battery ok and alternator charging ok ? -
@SpookDog
The servo motor is ok isn’t it ? For the powervalve to be gummed up and it’s not opening is a bit suspect, as the servo can apply quite a bit of force and if it’s not it might on its way out. ? Then again is the battery ok and alternator charging ok ?wrote on 18 Oct 2022, 11:57 last edited byIt was proper sticky with black crud. Cleaned it up with some degreasant. I’ll have to keep my eye on it in the near future...
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It was proper sticky with black crud. Cleaned it up with some degreasant. I’ll have to keep my eye on it in the near future...
wrote on 18 Oct 2022, 18:35 last edited by@SpookDog
I’d imagine that was due to carbon build up and the change in oil, just goes to show 2 strokes are fickle things and need regular TLC to be kept up to speed -
@SpookDog
I’d imagine that was due to carbon build up and the change in oil, just goes to show 2 strokes are fickle things and need regular TLC to be kept up to speedwrote on 20 Oct 2022, 19:23 last edited by@Scootjockey
Yeah. The engine seems to run fine (even good!) with the 2T synthetic oil I’ve been using. It’s only the power valve that’s suffering. Also I wasn’t sent the Oil I was expecting, I ended up with ‘Smith Alan’. I didn’t take any notice of the packaging, just that it was synthetic and approved. My embarrassing fuckup!...
I’m going back to Castrol for the foreseeable future... -
@Scootjockey
Yeah. The engine seems to run fine (even good!) with the 2T synthetic oil I’ve been using. It’s only the power valve that’s suffering. Also I wasn’t sent the Oil I was expecting, I ended up with ‘Smith Alan’. I didn’t take any notice of the packaging, just that it was synthetic and approved. My embarrassing fuckup!...
I’m going back to Castrol for the foreseeable future...wrote on 24 Oct 2022, 18:18 last edited byThe power valve started sticking again a day after. I switched back to castrol R1 and it has cleared up nicely...
The bike itself ran fine with the oil, it was just the power valve was gumming up with a thick, sticky varnish. Not power valve friendly! I still want to try Exol oil at some point...
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@SpookDog The bleed nipple should be backed off when retracting the pistons, you risk damaging something otherwise.
On cars, with solid brake lines, the bleed nipple should be backed off else risking rupting a solid line.
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wrote on 30 Oct 2022, 17:30 last edited by
Stripped and replaced the clutch side main oil seal. It looked fine, but on removal there was gear oil on the bottom of the main bearing. Brown, not red...
Bike definitely feels different as well. The tick over has altered so I’m gonna have to tweak the airscrew, which I don’t think I’m very good at
The revs seem to pick up much ‘cleaner’ as well... -
Stripped and replaced the clutch side main oil seal. It looked fine, but on removal there was gear oil on the bottom of the main bearing. Brown, not red...
Bike definitely feels different as well. The tick over has altered so I’m gonna have to tweak the airscrew, which I don’t think I’m very good at
The revs seem to pick up much ‘cleaner’ as well...wrote on 1 Nov 2022, 16:47 last edited byAlso replaced the EBC uprated clutch springs with the original ones, the clutch is as light as a feather!. Downshifting is a lot less clunky since I adjusted the basket/pressure plate
...Also my progressive springs have finally arrived and been posted! I really want a second hand set of forks to use either for the upgrade, or to use while the others are stripped for powder coating, ect...
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Also replaced the EBC uprated clutch springs with the original ones, the clutch is as light as a feather!. Downshifting is a lot less clunky since I adjusted the basket/pressure plate
...Also my progressive springs have finally arrived and been posted! I really want a second hand set of forks to use either for the upgrade, or to use while the others are stripped for powder coating, ect...
wrote on 2 Nov 2022, 08:50 last edited by@SpookDog Oh awesome, I run the EBC Springs and after a short while of riding I don't bother with the clutch, just let off the throttle.
The problem I was worried about was once you start increasing the vehicles power you may run into clutch troubles. But total overkill for stock systems.
