So Close!...
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Second hand forks, yokes and spindle arrived today! Really good condition for the price (£50 + 20 post). Swingarm arrived last week, things are looking good…
5090 miles and my head gasket let go today as well
I’m actually surprised it lasted as long as it did! It was over the previous 700 mile threshold for failure before I found and fixed the weak idle jet mixture fault, so it must have taken a lot of misfire/knocking abuse before it was fixed!…
I just need to work out my plan of action next. I’ll probably just throw on a new gasket and rings with a re-hone to see me through the winter. I’ve got another bottom end & crank I’d really like to build with new Koyo bearings and seals to mate to a fresh rebore & piston… -
Does every dtr frame have a kinda U-shaped tubular piece that bolts onto the back of the frame, under the mudguard? I saw a picture of a frame with said bit fitted, but mine just ends in 2 flattened tubes with holes in them…
I’ve never seen this bit before the 1 picture, so I could do with some guidance from people that have original, righteous frames… -
@SpookDog
I take it your frame doesn’t have the rear sub frame attached ? Earlier 80’s models the frame goes round in a continuous bend. Later models had a bolt on rear subframe which have a kink above the exhaust to allow you to hold on to the rear of the bike. The 2002 DT125R I bought for my son didn’t have the rear subframe or shopping rack, common practice is to junk them and jack the rear mudguard up to give the bike the Crosser look, mind you both replacements were purchased on eBay for about £100 each from memory. And hens teeth to get hold of. Neither of them were straight and took a bit of manhandling to get right. Look up on fowlers parts for the year/model of frame and if you need a sub frame it will be displayed on that page. Sometimes it’s pictured with the rear mudguard. -
Cheers bud! It’s good to know these things. I’d love to have a proper good gurn at a righteous standard 88 bike just so I can see & list all the bits I’m missing. One of the many previous boners deleted the rear foot peg mounting holes, as well as I don’t know what else!
There are loads of bits n bobs I’d like to get, rear reservoir ‘lock’ cap, same for rad cap, oil bottle. Original reusable cable/frame ties, CDI rubber mount, & on & on&on… -
@SpookDog
Try WWW.ALEADO.COM
it’s a Japanese broker a bit like eBay, but you give them the money open an account bid on the item and the seller sends it to them and they forward it on to you in the UK. Usually see older better parts for sale. There not always cheap but you find they are better condition. Also change your country setting on eBay if you use that… always find parts are better from France and Germany ! -
203675742903 On eBay is that what your looking for ?
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Head is still leaking but very slowly/slightly, it doesn’t overflow the expansion tank unless I ride middle-hard (not flat out) I’ve ordered a 27mm hex drive (1/2 drive) for the forks. I have another new head gasket but I’m going to try and limp through the salt season, until spring before fitting any new parts. I’ll do the head if it gets worse but I really want to get my old barrel rebored by PJME (best finish I’ve seen on a bore!) Also I’ve a crank I want to get rebuilt and balanced. My bike doesn’t want to rev above 7-8k in gear, which doesn’t seem right?…
Need to get new bottom end bearings and seals all through, clutch buffer rubbers and a new rear shock, as well as dreaded swingarm & linkage bearings, bushes and seals
I wish that Satan Claus didn’t see me as naughty, it’s all so expensive a labour of love!
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Whoa! Just went for a 35~40mile jaunt, I don’t like flashing blue lights road blocking in front of me in the pitch black! It is well disorienting! It is nice to not be pulled over just because you’re out and about at 1 in the morning though. 20 years ago I would of been tugged on principal!…
Times are so different…
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I know, if the weather is adverse I feel obliged to test myself against it
️I cleaned out the bowl of my carb last night before I went out, specifically the pilot jet because it’s not been starting or running great at low revs. It’s like a different animal again! Great starting, smooth revs all through the bottom to ‘top’ mid range. I’m surprised how much of the rev range is actually affected by the pilot jetting!
When I removed the pilot and blew it through you still couldn’t see a definitively clear hole (it was opaque) I had to use a thin, kinda serated wire to clear it till it showed properly to the eye. I don’t know if it’s a hard deposit build up or a ‘gluoopy’ oil residue? But something seems to be regularily obscuring the jets bore. Maybe cause I’m running pre~mix? (Castro Racing) The filter on the fuel tap looks great, also I’ve got a good new filter in-line between the tank & carb. I don’t really understand its cause … -
This post is deleted!
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Hoop! Talking to myself!
Bike chewed up a piston ring last night. Just lost power and started clattering, killed it like a heat seize with the clutch. Took the exhaust off tonight and peeked into the exhaust port. One ring down and a lot of shiny new scratches on my (previously pristine) 3MB cylinder head
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I had to nurse it 30 miles to get home to safety. So I’m guessing if any of it dropped down a transfer port I’ve lost the crank and cases as well. Oh well, shit happens…Can’t help thinking that there are loads more worthy candidates out there than me tho’
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@SpookDog wtf! I have never seen someone have as much bad luck with these engines as you.
All I can think is that you are caining it everywhere and you do lots of mileage. But in the 12 years of ownership of my bike I have only blown the head gasket after I used a cheap one after my bike got stolen...
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It feels like bad luck for sure, but the head gasket problems were just my ignorance and previous boners putting wrong jets in the wrong carb. My head problems are totally solved now…
I’ve never had a two stroke or any other engine have a ring let go though. I’m guessing it happens at the exhaust port where the rings have to bridge the biggest ‘void’. My barrel/piston was a bit worn and egg shaped judging by the ‘slap’ movement in the piston. So it’s my own fault. I was really hoping it would see me through till the spring tho! Oh well
happens!… -
No, I didn’t. They were new rings from pjme and they slipped in ok. I just did a quick visual with them in the barrel to make sure they weren’t doing anything extreme
I was just hoping it’d be ok cause I rarely go above 6k and never above 7k (I still don’t know what a late 88-90 engine shoul rev to!!) Just killing time & cruising up them miles till spring
There’s no mystery, I’m just feeling sorry for me~elf
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Nah, if I hadn’t of gotten nearly 6000 trouble free miles I could agree with you. I knew the barrel was oval shaped when I first fitted it. Like I said it was a bit ‘slappy’ You could feel the excess movement in the front to back at TDC, side to side was OK. I just wasn’t expecting anything catastrophic!
I just find it really helpful to document my ‘happening’s’ in this thread for future reference. I used to write it down on all sorts of cardboard, pads & things but always end up misplacing it, let alone keeping date of things…
I need the data to work out the problems. At the moment I’d love to know if my engine RPM peaked so low normally or whether I have a miss-balanced crank that won’t let it rev to 10k+
you do serious mileage on your bike. I haven't ridden any of my motorbikes since July. Fired up the DT yesterday, took a few kicks but akk seemed well.
I wonder whether the rings were out of spec then?