So Close!...
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Cheers bud. My top end is getting noisy again. I’m really starting to believe my conrod may be a bit bent (20,000 miles of misfires may be the culprit!) the last two pistons had eaten the locator pins, but the last piston had a mm of slack on the stator side of the gudgeon pin (where the curclip lives) you could literally rattle it around!!..
I’m gonna remove the stator cover and wobble the stator about and check for piston slap/rattle that wasn’t there a week ago. It’s not a good barrel and piston (cobbled from two different failures) but it was better than it sounds now…I’m just packing up 2 barrels for reboring at PJME. I just need a couple main bearings and things to build an new bottom end with a good crank I got a while ago. Hopefully then it should be as it was made to be 🥴
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I can’t believe I’ve got water in my carb again! This time not on reserve either! Bikes stored under cover as well! I’m going to go back to premium petrol because it supposedly has no ethanol in it? Which I believe attracts water?…
I’ve also got a different fuel tap coming from off of a ybr, it has a large clear removable filter bowl under it that I’m hoping will act as a water trap. If it fits!…
I’ve never had problems with contamination like this before, ever…
On a brighter note, my main bearings have turned up, £35 for a pair of Koyos. I also have all the bearings ordered for the gearbox (Koyo again) apart from the two needle/roller bearings that I can’t find info on yet…
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@HOTSHOT-III
E5?… -
@SpookDog I've always used Texaco super unleaded. Lots of Texaco stations near me, I never use super market fuel. Premium is 10% ethanol and super is 5% but even long before the change of ethanol I used it as it's a better quality cleaner fuel and what you lose on the 10p per litre extra cost you gain back on the extra miles per litre/gallon.
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@SpookDog Contact Mike at Salisbury Wheel Builders (now in Ringwood) on 07967 548015. Very good reputation locally, does everything from modern MX bikes to 100-year-old Brough Superiors, can make new spokes and supply new rims, everything
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@HOTSHOT-III
Cheers buddy… -
I’m having some real problems removing the base barrel studs from the right hand clutch side casing of an engine I’m getting together for building. The flywheel side studs came out easy enough with heat and 2 nuts cinched onto it.
I don’t know if the locator dowel tubes are making it more difficult to get heat into them but they just won’t budge no matter how much heat I apply. The main crank bearing actually fell out while I was trying!! I’ve been putting WD40 into the dowel tubes before and after heating and trying to remove the studs, but no luck yet. If anyone knows of any arcane methods of extraction please let me know
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I hear you! I’ll just have to keep on being my stubborn old self
️ I might try putting it in the oven @ 200+C
I worry about distorting the casing, or destroying it’s molecular structure/integrity though. I’m a worrier if you haven’t guessed
…On a brighter note, the YBR fuel tap is a direct fit. The only problem is the YBR has a plastic round ‘lever’ that doesn’t look right. A DTR one will fit, but needs modifying at the back to allow an extra outlet to the filter bowl, and I don’t have a spare to use at the moment. The YBR tap has a wicked little filter inside the catch bowl! I’ll take some pics soon as, cause words alone can’t explain what I’m trying to say…
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@SpookDog Clutch side cylinder studs: If you can get the locator dowels out first, that will expose all the rust/corrosion lurking between the stud and the dowel which you can then remove somehow without damaging the surrounding gasket face (wire brush/sharp thin things etc.); this will give the penetrating fluid a better shot at the actual stud/crankcase interface.
I had a set of 90 degree squares from Lidl and the handles were extruded aluminium; inside there was a round hole roughly the same size as the dowel OD running right along the handle. So I cut a 20mm or so section off the end, then made a hacksaw cut along the length of the hole so it could be opened out a little. Fitted it over the dowel with a little valve grinding paste for grip, then clamped it with mole grips on the ally so it gripped right around the circumference of the dowel without crushing it. Still took some persuasion/heat to remove the dowels and I replaced them with new but it got them out clean.
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Fair play guys, I practiced on an old casing and got both out by heating inside the casing where the oil seal retainer screws in. So the heat went into where the thread was, not just the dowels. Got both out the old casing, got one out of the ‘good’ casing then the last one snapped off deep inside. I kinda lost it with a lump hammer after that
…Anyone got a decent right hand casing that they don’t want?
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@HOTSHOT-III brough superior SS100 is my dream bike. T E. Lawrence of Arabia comes to mind.
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Electrolysis?
Has anyone ever done this to remove rust from inside of a petrol tank?…
Here’s the ybr tap with an adorable little filter that is absolutely top drawer quality, internal o~ring seal and all!
It’s a same fit as a dtr or Tzr (shown) tap. The cool thing is that it’s effective as a water trap as well as being a wicked little filter!…
You can fit a proper looking tap ‘handle’ to it as well. It will need a bit of surgery with a Dremel or such on the rear of the‘handle’ though. you can see the difference below:
I know it’s not for everyone, but it’s a wicked little filter upgrade and watertrap, if nothing else…
