So Close!...
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@markus-w
Bud! Sorry I kinda forgot about this! 101 other problems caused by salt & winter~neglect & being broke! If you can get me a number (preferably
an email? Iām not really a āpeople personā if you havenāt guessed already! š„“) that would be sweetAFā¦ -
@markus-w
Bud! Sorry I kinda forgot about this! 101 other problems caused by salt & winter~neglect & being broke! If you can get me a number (preferably
an email? Iām not really a āpeople personā if you havenāt guessed already! š„“) that would be sweetAFā¦ -
@markus-w
Bud! Sorry I kinda forgot about this! 101 other problems caused by salt & winter~neglect & being broke! If you can get me a number (preferably
an email? Iām not really a āpeople personā if you havenāt guessed already! š„“) that would be sweetAFā¦ -
@SpookDog if you want to let me know when you've emailed him I'll let him know to make sure he checks his spam etc.
@markus-w
Cheers bud, I willā¦
Sorry, Iām a bit pissed at the moment. Iāve developed another top end malevolence that Iām not even going to go into. Iām trying to suss out getting PJME to rebore a couple barrels for me. Priorities, and waiting to get some moniesā¦
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@markus-w
Cheers bud, I willā¦
Sorry, Iām a bit pissed at the moment. Iāve developed another top end malevolence that Iām not even going to go into. Iām trying to suss out getting PJME to rebore a couple barrels for me. Priorities, and waiting to get some moniesā¦
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@SpookDog no worries bud. Hope you get it sorted. You've had some problems with that bike but you do some big miles though.
@markus-w
Cheers bud. My top end is getting noisy again. Iām really starting to believe my conrod may be a bit bent (20,000 miles of misfires may be the culprit!) the last two pistons had eaten the locator pins, but the last piston had a mm of slack on the stator side of the gudgeon pin (where the curclip lives) you could literally rattle it around!!..
Iām gonna remove the stator cover and wobble the stator about and check for piston slap/rattle that wasnāt there a week ago. Itās not a good barrel and piston (cobbled from two different failures) but it was better than it sounds nowā¦Iām just packing up 2 barrels for reboring at PJME. I just need a couple main bearings and things to build an new bottom end with a good crank I got a while ago. Hopefully then it should be as it was made to be š„“
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@markus-w
Cheers bud. My top end is getting noisy again. Iām really starting to believe my conrod may be a bit bent (20,000 miles of misfires may be the culprit!) the last two pistons had eaten the locator pins, but the last piston had a mm of slack on the stator side of the gudgeon pin (where the curclip lives) you could literally rattle it around!!..
Iām gonna remove the stator cover and wobble the stator about and check for piston slap/rattle that wasnāt there a week ago. Itās not a good barrel and piston (cobbled from two different failures) but it was better than it sounds nowā¦Iām just packing up 2 barrels for reboring at PJME. I just need a couple main bearings and things to build an new bottom end with a good crank I got a while ago. Hopefully then it should be as it was made to be š„“
I canāt believe Iāve got water in my carb again! This time not on reserve either! Bikes stored under cover as well! Iām going to go back to premium petrol because it supposedly has no ethanol in it? Which I believe attracts water?ā¦
Iāve also got a different fuel tap coming from off of a ybr, it has a large clear removable filter bowl under it that Iām hoping will act as a water trap. If it fits!ā¦
Iāve never had problems with contamination like this before, everā¦
On a brighter note, my main bearings have turned up, Ā£35 for a pair of Koyos. I also have all the bearings ordered for the gearbox (Koyo again) apart from the two needle/roller bearings that I canāt find info on yetā¦
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I canāt believe Iāve got water in my carb again! This time not on reserve either! Bikes stored under cover as well! Iām going to go back to premium petrol because it supposedly has no ethanol in it? Which I believe attracts water?ā¦
Iāve also got a different fuel tap coming from off of a ybr, it has a large clear removable filter bowl under it that Iām hoping will act as a water trap. If it fits!ā¦
Iāve never had problems with contamination like this before, everā¦
On a brighter note, my main bearings have turned up, Ā£35 for a pair of Koyos. I also have all the bearings ordered for the gearbox (Koyo again) apart from the two needle/roller bearings that I canāt find info on yetā¦
@SpookDog PJME sell the gearbox needle roller bearing, only available genuine Yamaha but they always keep them in stock. Definitely run it on E5
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@SpookDog PJME sell the gearbox needle roller bearing, only available genuine Yamaha but they always keep them in stock. Definitely run it on E5
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@HOTSHOT-III
E5?ā¦ -
I canāt believe Iāve got water in my carb again! This time not on reserve either! Bikes stored under cover as well! Iām going to go back to premium petrol because it supposedly has no ethanol in it? Which I believe attracts water?ā¦
Iāve also got a different fuel tap coming from off of a ybr, it has a large clear removable filter bowl under it that Iām hoping will act as a water trap. If it fits!ā¦
Iāve never had problems with contamination like this before, everā¦
On a brighter note, my main bearings have turned up, Ā£35 for a pair of Koyos. I also have all the bearings ordered for the gearbox (Koyo again) apart from the two needle/roller bearings that I canāt find info on yetā¦
@SpookDog I've always used Texaco super unleaded. Lots of Texaco stations near me, I never use super market fuel. Premium is 10% ethanol and super is 5% but even long before the change of ethanol I used it as it's a better quality cleaner fuel and what you lose on the 10p per litre extra cost you gain back on the extra miles per litre/gallon.
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@SpookDog I've always used Texaco super unleaded. Lots of Texaco stations near me, I never use super market fuel. Premium is 10% ethanol and super is 5% but even long before the change of ethanol I used it as it's a better quality cleaner fuel and what you lose on the 10p per litre extra cost you gain back on the extra miles per litre/gallon.
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Does anyone have an idea on how much it costs to get a wheel rebuilt/respoked? Just the labour? Has anyone had any done?ā¦
@SpookDog Contact Mike at Salisbury Wheel Builders (now in Ringwood) on 07967 548015. Very good reputation locally, does everything from modern MX bikes to 100-year-old Brough Superiors, can make new spokes and supply new rims, everything
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@SpookDog Contact Mike at Salisbury Wheel Builders (now in Ringwood) on 07967 548015. Very good reputation locally, does everything from modern MX bikes to 100-year-old Brough Superiors, can make new spokes and supply new rims, everything
@HOTSHOT-III
Cheers buddyā¦ -
@HOTSHOT-III
Cheers buddyā¦Iām having some real problems removing the base barrel studs from the right hand clutch side casing of an engine Iām getting together for building. The flywheel side studs came out easy enough with heat and 2 nuts cinched onto it.
I donāt know if the locator dowel tubes are making it more difficult to get heat into them but they just wonāt budge no matter how much heat I apply. The main crank bearing actually fell out while I was trying!! Iāve been putting WD40 into the dowel tubes before and after heating and trying to remove the studs, but no luck yet. If anyone knows of any arcane methods of extraction please let me know
ā¦ -
Iām having some real problems removing the base barrel studs from the right hand clutch side casing of an engine Iām getting together for building. The flywheel side studs came out easy enough with heat and 2 nuts cinched onto it.
I donāt know if the locator dowel tubes are making it more difficult to get heat into them but they just wonāt budge no matter how much heat I apply. The main crank bearing actually fell out while I was trying!! Iāve been putting WD40 into the dowel tubes before and after heating and trying to remove the studs, but no luck yet. If anyone knows of any arcane methods of extraction please let me know ā¦ -
@SpookDog Yeah I had a VERY similar issue when doing my crankcase studs. I just applied ridiculous amounts of heat. I may have used an impact gun?
I guess what I am saying is, been there also!
I hear you! Iāll just have to keep on being my stubborn old self
ļø I might try putting it in the oven @ 200+C
I worry about distorting the casing, or destroying itās molecular structure/integrity though. Iām a worrier if you havenāt guessed
ā
ā¦On a brighter note, the YBR fuel tap is a direct fit. The only problem is the YBR has a plastic round āleverā that doesnāt look right. A DTR one will fit, but needs modifying at the back to allow an extra outlet to the filter bowl, and I donāt have a spare to use at the moment. The YBR tap has a wicked little filter inside the catch bowl! Iāll take some pics soon as, cause words alone canāt explain what Iām trying to sayā¦
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I hear you! Iāll just have to keep on being my stubborn old self
ļø I might try putting it in the oven @ 200+C
I worry about distorting the casing, or destroying itās molecular structure/integrity though. Iām a worrier if you havenāt guessedā ā¦On a brighter note, the YBR fuel tap is a direct fit. The only problem is the YBR has a plastic round āleverā that doesnāt look right. A DTR one will fit, but needs modifying at the back to allow an extra outlet to the filter bowl, and I donāt have a spare to use at the moment. The YBR tap has a wicked little filter inside the catch bowl! Iāll take some pics soon as, cause words alone canāt explain what Iām trying to sayā¦
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Iām having some real problems removing the base barrel studs from the right hand clutch side casing of an engine Iām getting together for building. The flywheel side studs came out easy enough with heat and 2 nuts cinched onto it.
I donāt know if the locator dowel tubes are making it more difficult to get heat into them but they just wonāt budge no matter how much heat I apply. The main crank bearing actually fell out while I was trying!! Iāve been putting WD40 into the dowel tubes before and after heating and trying to remove the studs, but no luck yet. If anyone knows of any arcane methods of extraction please let me know ā¦@SpookDog Clutch side cylinder studs: If you can get the locator dowels out first, that will expose all the rust/corrosion lurking between the stud and the dowel which you can then remove somehow without damaging the surrounding gasket face (wire brush/sharp thin things etc.); this will give the penetrating fluid a better shot at the actual stud/crankcase interface.
I had a set of 90 degree squares from Lidl and the handles were extruded aluminium; inside there was a round hole roughly the same size as the dowel OD running right along the handle. So I cut a 20mm or so section off the end, then made a hacksaw cut along the length of the hole so it could be opened out a little. Fitted it over the dowel with a little valve grinding paste for grip, then clamped it with mole grips on the ally so it gripped right around the circumference of the dowel without crushing it. Still took some persuasion/heat to remove the dowels and I replaced them with new but it got them out clean.
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@SpookDog Clutch side cylinder studs: If you can get the locator dowels out first, that will expose all the rust/corrosion lurking between the stud and the dowel which you can then remove somehow without damaging the surrounding gasket face (wire brush/sharp thin things etc.); this will give the penetrating fluid a better shot at the actual stud/crankcase interface.
I had a set of 90 degree squares from Lidl and the handles were extruded aluminium; inside there was a round hole roughly the same size as the dowel OD running right along the handle. So I cut a 20mm or so section off the end, then made a hacksaw cut along the length of the hole so it could be opened out a little. Fitted it over the dowel with a little valve grinding paste for grip, then clamped it with mole grips on the ally so it gripped right around the circumference of the dowel without crushing it. Still took some persuasion/heat to remove the dowels and I replaced them with new but it got them out clean.
Fair play guys, I practiced on an old casing and got both out by heating inside the casing where the oil seal retainer screws in. So the heat went into where the thread was, not just the dowels. Got both out the old casing, got one out of the āgoodā casing then the last one snapped off deep inside. I kinda lost it with a lump hammer after that
ā¦Anyone got a decent right hand casing that they donāt want?
ā¦
