So Close!...
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Have you drilled out an aluminium drive or plastic only? I’m wondering whether to try the back then drift out the pin or drill the pin out itself? I’m guessing it’s from the back…
Again: if you know how to look up registrations and can find out what colour my bike was originally, I would really luv to know
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@SpookDog I looked up your 3DB - 001369 number and your bike is definitely an '88 round slide carb early bike, but it gives all three colours (white/red, black/red and endurance blue) as options.
I've only ever repaired the plastic speedo drives. I think you could theoretically drill into an alloy one from the back and tap out the roll pin, but you'd probably need a fair bit of heat/PlusGas as the steel pin will be seized in to the alloy body. Or if you have a pillar drill and a means of firmly attaching the drive to the bed at exactly 90 degrees to the drill bit, you could drill directly into the pin with say a 1mm drill bit, then slowly increase the bit size and just get rid of it that way before choosing a slightly bigger split pin to reassemble it. TBH though it seems a shame to bastardize that SR125 drive as they're classics as well. So I'd stick it back on eBay and someone somewhere will buy it off you.
Are you doing all this online stuff on a smartphone? Because a screen the size of a fag packet can make life very difficult. I have a smartphone but I'm old and crotchety as well, and I hate the things. Get a reconditioned PC for cheap, or use one at the library and you can have loads of windows open at once and look around all over the world for the best deal. And get on Facebook as well, I know I've said this before but there are a fair few lads on there who buy and sell DTR bits all the time, you could have an actual DTR unit in your hand by this time next week.
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@SpookDog as @HOTSHOT-III says. The Facebook groups are a really good place for getting parts and with much better prices than eBay. I myself was always anti Facebook but I gave in about 3 years ago and joined up for the sole purpose of joining the DT groups. Haven't got my picture on there. But as I said there's a Speedo drive for sale there for £40 including postage. If you want I can message the guy and try get a phone number for you?
Also if you send an email to customersupport@yamahamotor.co.uk and tell them you have one of their bikes and you would like to get it back to original they will give you all the information you need. I did this when I got mine and received about 6 separate emails back from them. Even sent me a wiring diagram. Really couldn't fault their service. Give them the reg and vin. -
Bud! Sorry I kinda forgot about this! 101 other problems caused by salt & winter~neglect & being broke! If you can get me a number (preferably
an email? I’m not really a ‘people person’ if you haven’t guessed already! 🥴) that would be sweetAF… -
@SpookDog no worries bud. I'm the same, in the way that I really don't like talking on the phone. I'll message them though it was a while ago now but they are always coming up for sale. I'll get back to you on it so remember to check back in.
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Cheers bud, I will…
Sorry, I’m a bit pissed at the moment. I’ve developed another top end malevolence that I’m not even going to go into. I’m trying to suss out getting PJME to rebore a couple barrels for me. Priorities, and waiting to get some monies…
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Cheers bud. My top end is getting noisy again. I’m really starting to believe my conrod may be a bit bent (20,000 miles of misfires may be the culprit!) the last two pistons had eaten the locator pins, but the last piston had a mm of slack on the stator side of the gudgeon pin (where the curclip lives) you could literally rattle it around!!..
I’m gonna remove the stator cover and wobble the stator about and check for piston slap/rattle that wasn’t there a week ago. It’s not a good barrel and piston (cobbled from two different failures) but it was better than it sounds now…I’m just packing up 2 barrels for reboring at PJME. I just need a couple main bearings and things to build an new bottom end with a good crank I got a while ago. Hopefully then it should be as it was made to be 🥴
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I can’t believe I’ve got water in my carb again! This time not on reserve either! Bikes stored under cover as well! I’m going to go back to premium petrol because it supposedly has no ethanol in it? Which I believe attracts water?…
I’ve also got a different fuel tap coming from off of a ybr, it has a large clear removable filter bowl under it that I’m hoping will act as a water trap. If it fits!…
I’ve never had problems with contamination like this before, ever…
On a brighter note, my main bearings have turned up, £35 for a pair of Koyos. I also have all the bearings ordered for the gearbox (Koyo again) apart from the two needle/roller bearings that I can’t find info on yet…
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@HOTSHOT-III
E5?… -
@SpookDog I've always used Texaco super unleaded. Lots of Texaco stations near me, I never use super market fuel. Premium is 10% ethanol and super is 5% but even long before the change of ethanol I used it as it's a better quality cleaner fuel and what you lose on the 10p per litre extra cost you gain back on the extra miles per litre/gallon.
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@SpookDog Contact Mike at Salisbury Wheel Builders (now in Ringwood) on 07967 548015. Very good reputation locally, does everything from modern MX bikes to 100-year-old Brough Superiors, can make new spokes and supply new rims, everything
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@HOTSHOT-III
Cheers buddy… -
I’m having some real problems removing the base barrel studs from the right hand clutch side casing of an engine I’m getting together for building. The flywheel side studs came out easy enough with heat and 2 nuts cinched onto it.
I don’t know if the locator dowel tubes are making it more difficult to get heat into them but they just won’t budge no matter how much heat I apply. The main crank bearing actually fell out while I was trying!! I’ve been putting WD40 into the dowel tubes before and after heating and trying to remove the studs, but no luck yet. If anyone knows of any arcane methods of extraction please let me know …
