So Close!...
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It’s a weird one! I cleaned the carb out again. Another tiny little bead of shitty/water in the bottom of the bowl. Not even half a match head. Less than usual.
This time I junked the air filter because it was starting to disintegrate. I thought I had a good NOS one but that was crumbling as well! It’s definitely running and picking up a lot better without the old filter. Seems it’s down to the fact that it really doesn’t like the damp atmosphere this weather is making. Way too humid…
Too much rain! I didn’t even consider a low pressure atmosphere!…It used to really love the cool dry early 5o’clock morning air a few months ago! You could really feel the extra whump to each charge of mixture. Especially at low rpms…
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Can someone please measure the piston/gudgeon/wrist pin for the Athena 170cc kits piston?
I’m getting conflicting information from the web about them…If anyone has an old spare unused one, please sell it to me or at least measure the thing! Please!
I’m guessing that the diameter is the same as the standard pin if it uses standard small end bearings? Just the length would be different?
I don’t have the tools to measure the pistons interior myself… -
I don't have the possibility to measure, but the diameter of the 170 pin is the same as stock, but it's longer. It's also lightened with a conical bore, so thinner walls towards the ends. I would not recommend a stock needle bearing with the 170-kit, there will be too much axial play on the bearing, so it can wander out of position. I had a lot of trouble finding a suitable needle bearing for mine.
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Sent my siss’s address. It’s where all my tools and spare parts are! Well a dry place to work anyways
…Cheers for the info guys, will try and measure the gap in the inside of the piston for the little end bearing width…
The roads we’re actually dry today. My bike actually felt like it was revving and pulling properly for the first time since it started pissing down with rain every day!…
nice!… -
No expert in bearings, but are they not usually having rather standard measurements? Such as "Ø20 mm inside, Ø30 mm outside, 20 mm wide" and then graded by various tolerance requirements?
If so - why do everybody post like "you need the bearing from a 1989 model XYZ345" instead of "SKF #7709 or equivalent from any of a dozen manufacturers"? Not sniping at Rallyfinnen here, it is a general observation from way back.
I mean, these guys have thousands of sizes and models on the shelves that I can obtain within a week from local suppliers. That would be far easier than trying to track down a certain model built a certain year in a certain region.
https://catalog.skfusa.com/data/bbm19enu/011/html/export/SKF Bearings and Mounted Products.pdf
That's 579 pages of normal bearings, there are droves of specials as well. -
I know what you’re saying, in most cases there are markings. Though I think they’re usually maker specific. Not noticed any on small end bearings, though never purposely looked for them…
What is SFK short for ?…
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I’ve just found a place near me that does TiG welding on cast aluminium casings! So I can go ahead and get my early 600&something numbered engine case lug welded! I’ve got new main bearings on the way! I’ve just got to replace the oil seals I used on the Tzr lump, as well as an Athena head gasket.
I did want to wait until the Tzr was rideable so I could get the Dtr frame stripped, dipped & coated. It’s going to take me longer than I thought though, and I’m not sure how long the engine is going to last! It was only a lashed together mismatch of parts supposed to get me to the next rebore! But the suspect conrod put paid to just doing a top end rebuild…
Also found a vapour blasting place local as well, shiny casings!!
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Hmmm! Got a good winter hours snaggle, my headlight ‘stops’ when I turn the bars to a certain angle. It doesn’t affect when normal riding, just when manoeuvring back & forth, left to right and the like. So I never really noticed it before…
Not so handy when it’s getting darker by the day! 🫤 … -
Red & yellow stripe feed wire to the headlight was just kinda ‘smooshed’ up into place at one of the idiot proof connectors. How it was still working is a mystery to me. No wonder my headlight dimmed when I put on the brakes!…
Other thing was a red wire at another connector was doing the same business! It was basically responsible for all the battery operated shizness! It’s another wonder that the PV cycled when I turned the key on! The wire fell off when I removed the headlight (along with the red/yellow stripe wire) stopping the PV from cycling, the brake light, indicators, horn, ect, from working!
Basically both my AC & DC circuits were running by a hair! (Or gravity!!) Thank fux the ignition curcuit is sound! I hope!!
…At least now I’ve bodged it the lights and horn ect are bright and truer than they’ve ever been. For now until the test ride anyways
…Till next time…
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@Calum Thanks bud, I wondered what happened to that post, just seen you've been fixing the forum all day
@SpookDog Here are some cable routing schematics from the Yamaha repair manual, the wiring behind the headlight is a bit of a rat's nest like most trail bikes but this should help you out. Also considering the time of year and the weather we've been having, it's well worth giving the wiring behind the headlight (and under the tank) a thorough blast with WD40 . Throw old towels or dust sheets over both wheels to protect the tyres and brakes, then apply in the manner displayed by the gentleman in the final image. You can also fill up the handlebar switches until it flows out of every orifice, it's a harsh environment for a switch but by doing this regularly you can make the switches last the life of the bike
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We walk the Earth, like Jolly Green Giants! But with Guns!!…
Stay Frosty!…
Did a test ride: Lights are good! Even the engine is crisper since the PV seems to be kicking in properly!…
I could of done with routing pics years ago, but they be always welcome
…Cheers!…
