So Close!...
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@SpookDog I've never seen one specifically for the DTR but a smart way around this is to polish that part of the clutch cover with finer and finer grades of wet & dry, finishing with Solvol Autosol for a mirror finish to seal up the pores in the aluminium. When it gets roughed up by your boots just polish it again. A 750ml tin works out to about half the price of the little tubes you get down the motor factors and would be good for your rims and stainless RH pipe as well:
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Bless you bud, I was thinking of the quick fix! When I have more time I’ll finish what my right foot started
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Baby steps! I’ve been playing with the wiring for most of the afternoon…
What ever indicator I put on they all lit up along with the taillight
I found the cause but have had enough of the rain and cold wind this evening…I forgot to ask! Does the rear rack have spacers or rubber things to fill it out at the mounting points at all? Mine came badly fitted and I’ve made some ally spacers but would like to know what it’s supposed to be like?…
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@SpookDog From memory I don't think it has any spacers but mine were always a bit springy and just pulled up the last few mm by tightening the bolts. I think it's supposed to go behind the tailpipe at the right front mount, the idea being you can take the tailpipe off without disturbing the rack.
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No, standard. Optical illusion
…Does the rear mudguard have any grommet/bush in it? My rack is like 5mm loose gapped on each side. It was so bad it’s cracked and been welded, badly
I’m wondering if it’s the proper one? It all lines up on the bolt holes apart from being wider at the back and the tailpipe mount point…———————
That StumpHumper looks gorgeous in green. Was there a more basic version of that frame back in the mid-late 90’s?
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2024? Some of us ole’gits didn’t think we were going get past 1984!!
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@SpookDog That sounds about right for the rack to be honest, I've never known one to fit perfectly even when undamaged. A lot of them have cracked and been welded, particularly French bikes as they use DTRs for commuting the way we use C90 step-thrus etc. meaning you see a lot of DTRs in France with top boxes fitted. And the weight limit for the rack is 2kg according to Yamaha.
Yes I think the 1st version was called the FSR Ground Control in the 90s, same basic layout but they look dated now. Still lots of them about on eBay etc. though so it must have been a good design. There was also a hardtail StumpJ(H)umper, and they came up with another design called the FSR XC which was like an entry level full suspension Stumpy. In fact I took the view at the time that for any given year the FSR XC was basically the previous year's StumpJumper FSR rebadged.
Part of the fun for me is trying to piece together what changes were made in which year; just like when MX bikes had a major redesign every year back then, everyone being fashion conscious and raving about the very latest version of something means the process of evolution is soon forgotten and that suits manufacturers who just want to keep coming up with something new to sell more units.
Unfortunately it doesn't really help people buying secondhand; riding in local woods in the days before it was made a more serious offence than being on Epstein's client list, it was quite common to meet people riding air-cooled, drum braked 1970s dirt bikes who would swear blind that "it's a '93 bruv" when asked what year it was. So the nature of the Human race presents quite a few barriers to understanding why the bikes we ride now look and fit together the way they do.BTW if you want new fork gaiters, genuine ones are stupid money but Polisport ones like these fit the DTR very well, you just have to use a leather punch to enlarge the vent holes to stop them ballooning under full travel:
https://www.bikerpartshop.com/en/home/41-fork-boots-for-yamaha-dtr-125.html
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Damn! I still have all four indicators flashing!
I don’t think my loom liked being removed and refitted!…Edit: There is absolutely no accounting for stupidity! There are 2 six pin connectors, 1 black, 1 white. Guess who had them crossed over?…
In my defence, it was dark, wet & windy! Also there was a ‘broken inside’ taillight earth that was throwing confusion into the mix. Every time it disconnected the brake light dimmed and the indicator light on the ‘dash’ came on! Why it chose then to manifest is beyond me! 
…Happy daze now it’s all working!…
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I actually had to start again and re-route the expansion pipe! I finally have it running properly! Along the top then zig-zagging back down to the expansion bottle. Should of listened the first time
…Also totally forgot about the metal coolant tube that’s been head butting salty road water for the last few years! QTLC is needed yet again
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@SpookDog All's well that ends well I guess, routing that expansion pipe is one of those jobs no-one wants to do ever.
The metal coolant hose does catch a lot of road salt etc. yes, £78/discontinued from Fowlers but CMSNL can order them in for about £27 plus shipping; not quite sure how they're managing this but they do a lot of stuff like that you can't get any more, I think I read on their website they sometimes get things like this made. If yours is really far gone and threatening to leak coolant maybe get on eBay and find one from a French bike if you don't want to wait for Holland post, some people sell them still attached to the waterpump cover as well.
It's not only the hose which is a potential headache, also the two screws which retain it are similarly prone to seizing. I had to use an impact driver to get the one out of the waterpump cover to replace the O-ring (this is 90p from Fowlers and worth buying genuine as Japanese manufacturers are notorious for being awkward with O-ring sizes). -
I still feel like an idiot for putting it back where it was when I got the bike, but ‘better’! It’s an original tube and all the kinks and bends line up now! I should be a bit quicker on the uptake by now…
Do you know of a paint stripper that doesn’t damage the Yamaha plastic? I don’t know if what’s on there is acrylic or cellulose, or what…
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@SpookDog Not sure about Yamaha plastic but I once watched someone use Nitromors on some painted Suzuki TS125X plastics (the one that looks like a mid-80s RM) and it seemed to get the paint off without harming the plastic. B&Q sell one called Paint Panther which smells the same, I used some this year on something else. Maybe just try a thumbnail-sized blob in an area that isn't very visible first?
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Cheers bud, I’ve got some bad condition old ones to try out with…
Everything is taking an age! It looks like I’ve made zero progress in 3 days…
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Mother Nature isn’t so bad, it’s the local council and their grit lorries!
…Fair play, it was black when first registered, just with a red frame…
Getting the rack fitted nicely took a lot more than it should!…
PS I don’t have any smiley face emoji’s showing up, is that an iPhone compatibility thing?…
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Looking good spook! Have to let us know what the 170 kit is like and jetting wise. I’ve got to Abit of time to order mine be good to see how it goes with the TM32mm carb, are you running stock oil pump? I have the newer oil pump setup so can adjust it more be good to see if anyone has a guide on how much it needs adjusting by
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Pissing coolant from the bottom of the barrel, where the casings meet. They’re not a matched pair and one is a hair higher at the front on the clutch side. Perfect at the back…
Going to lap the front with wet and dry and a 10cm (10cm X 10cm) square of plate glass…
It was the one time I never used sealant on the base gasket, plus I used my Vertex gasket on the Tzr! I ended up using one of those 0.5mm fleabay ones. A decent thickness gasket and copper spray sealant and I’d probably never had a problem…
